Running Horrible

[iguanahotsauce]

So my talon is getting progressively worse. I think it might be because of the cold but I'm not sure. So as of now when you start it up it revs real low for a second and sounds like it's going to die then it revs up to around 2.5k and slowly drops to a steady 750rpm. Then When I first go to drive it as I step on the gas the car shakes bad and doesn't accelerate very much at all. Then after a while of doing this is starts to run normally but when I step on it to accelerate it's not a smooth acceleration like it used to be, it jerks a bit as it accelerates. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[TunerJunkie]

Try checking your ECU Caps. I had an issue with one of my cars and the guy I got it from kept telling me he was positive the TB was leaking. Sure enough I pulled the ECU and the caps had leaked all over the traces which was causing the car to do many of these things you speak of.

 

[LOLVTEC]

just make sure you fix all those vacuum leaks, maybe be a bad fuel pump. have you replaced your fuel filter recently or at all for that fact.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Try checking your ECU Caps. I had an issue with one of my cars and the guy I got it from kept telling me he was positive the TB was leaking. Sure enough I pulled the ECU and the caps had leaked all over the traces which was causing the car to do many of these things you speak of.

Just had my ECU fixed by ECMTuning a few months ago.

just make sure you fix all those vacuum leaks, maybe be a bad fuel pump. have you replaced your fuel filter recently or at all for that fact.

The only vacuum leak I can find is the one coming from the port on the intake manifold and I can't figure out what is causing that. The fuel pump was replaced just under a year ago and the fuel filter was replaced then as well. Did lots of maintenance on this car to get it up and running again after it had been sitting for 7 years. It was running pretty good until just a couple weeks ago.

 

[LOLVTEC]

well if you know where the leak is, since you stated it's coming from a port? in the intake manifold, then fix it. port? meaning vacuum nipple? take a picture of where it's coming from. i don't get why you don't just fix that leak since you know where it is. i'm just a little confused because you say you don't know whats causing the leak. if it has a vacuum line then the vacuum line needs to be replaced. if it's coming off a gasket, the gasket needs to be replaced with a little application of rtv, if its the actual vacuum fitting thats leaking you need to get that welded shut.

 

[cliffkemp]

Since he described the plugs as being black, it sounds like it is running rich.

Do you have a AFC? If you do, check the settings to see if something has been altered.

There can only be a few things that would cause a rich run. We would need to see a log or you tell us what your a/f is at idle and under boost.

If you plugs are black as you say, that is definately running rich. That would correspond with the bad idle if it is rich enough to almost foul the plugs and would explain the poor performance, even at light throttle. The leak you have, needs to be addressed since it is on the intake manifold as that leak bypasses the throttle body and will cause a lean idle and rich under boost as you have unmetered air coming in/out of the intake tract.

Since we do not know if it is rich or lean at idle, we are not sure what else to tell you. Rich idle can mean leaking injectors and, if bad enough, will cause poor acceleration at any speed if bad enough.

Lean idle would suggest the leak is the problem but, usually leaks are not bad enough to run that lean as they would up your idle with the extra air coming in after the throttle body. The computer will account for a large intake leak after the throttle body as it will cause a higher idle. If the leak is before the throttle body and after the air sensor, it will cause a lean a/f ratio and can cause poor performance at any motor speed depending on how bad it is.

There can be other problems but, until we rule these out (you fix the leaks and tell us what the a/f ratios are at idle and boost, what is your idle when warm and what it is doing, and anything else you notice that is going on) there is not much else we can do except guess.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

well if you know where the leak is, since you stated it's coming from a port? in the intake manifold, then fix it. port? meaning vacuum nipple? take a picture of where it's coming from. i don't get why you don't just fix that leak since you know where it is. i'm just a little confused because you say you don't know whats causing the leak. if it has a vacuum line then the vacuum line needs to be replaced. if it's coming off a gasket, the gasket needs to be replaced with a little application of rtv, if its the actual vacuum fitting thats leaking you need to get that welded shut.

All of the air is coming out of the small vacuum hose that is going from the intake manifold to the bov. I can't fix it because I don't know why the air is leaking from there. The hose is fine and in the past when I done boost leak tests I haven't had the problem of air coming out of that hose. What I don't know is what is causing a leak at that port.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Seems like it may be the wrong size, put a zip tie on it and see if that fixes it.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Seems like it may be the wrong size, put a zip tie on it and see if that fixes it.

I don't have it hooked up to the bov when I'm doing the leak test. I don't need to have it connected when I'm doing the leak test right? Since the bov goes to the rubber hose that connects to the turbo and I have to have that off in order to do the leak test

Alright so I guess I'm a bit lost here. I get that I have a bad boost leak coming from this port on the intake manifold that goes to the small port on the bov. What is this for? and why is it leaking from here all of the sudden when it was fine before? Is something not closing that is supposed to be and that's why air is coming out of there when I do the boost leak test. I don't want to just plug it right? Because it's there for a reason

 

[dsm44130]

from the start me and you have the same problem except i dont have a leak from anywhere that i can tell, i could swear i hear it but i know its the sound of the air whistling threw the intake, mine seems to be electrical . if you unplug your maf then start the car how does it idle? and does it let you rev better? mine acts 80% better , till it warms up then i plug it back maf and the car is 100%, some times i have to run it like that for a couple miles gently then plug back in and like magic the car its a beast and at its best, since i did it the first time there has been many times i dont have to touch it at all just start and go , other times i have to do it a couple times a day.but if i go to start right now and it wont rev past 2grand and it eats the hell out of fuel. cant even drive it with out bucking i know right off start up so i shut it off and disconnect maf let it ide ,warm up, plug in and go.my car sat for months .its not my coolant temp sensor, ive checked and replaced it twice for the hell of it , new tps , swapped maf with another. o2 aint gonna make it run that bad .im thinking my injection driver chip is bad or leaky cap .

 

[iguanahotsauce]

I will give that a shot and see how it runs. I obviously have a leak but I don't get why it's leaking there and if I can just plug that port. After my car warms up it runs better but it still wont boost past about 4psi

So I tried unplugging the maf and it ran worse. It had a bad idle and when I would rev it, it didn't sound very good.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

I checked them all. They are all connected to where they are supposed to be and all of the hoses are good.

 

[cliffkemp]

I don't have it hooked up to the bov when I'm doing the leak test. I don't need to have it connected when I'm doing the leak test right? Since the bov goes to the rubber hose that connects to the turbo and I have to have that off in order to do the leak test

Alright so I guess I'm a bit lost here. I get that I have a bad boost leak coming from this port on the intake manifold that goes to the small port on the bov. What is this for? and why is it leaking from here all of the sudden when it was fine before? Is something not closing that is supposed to be and that's why air is coming out of there when I do the boost leak test. I don't want to just plug it right? Because it's there for a reason

Where is the air coming from? the hose or the port? Is it the manifold end or the blow off valve end? If the hose it bad, replace it with a good one. If the leak is coming from the manifold side, fix the port so it no longer leaks. If the leak is coming from the blow off valve side, fix the port on it. If it is coming from the blow off valve itself, repair/ replace the blow off valve with a working one and see what is going on after that.

If you have a leak at either end, it is still a boost/ vacuum leak since the hose connects both sides.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Where is the air coming from? the hose or the port? Is it the manifold end or the blow off valve end? If the hose it bad, replace it with a good one. If the leak is coming from the manifold side, fix the port so it no longer leaks. If the leak is coming from the blow off valve side, fix the port on it. If it is coming from the blow off valve itself, repair/ replace the blow off valve with a working one and see what is going on after that.

If you have a leak at either end, it is still a boost/ vacuum leak since the hose connects both sides.

It's coming from the hose from the manifold side. The hose isn't bad though because if I plug it with my finger then it will start to build pressure. My problem is I don't know how to fix the port. Do I just plug it? The port isn't bad, all the air is just coming out of there.

 

[SkyGrowsCold]

I've been following this thread off and on for a bit now and it keeps coming back that you're leaking pressure from the line that comes off your manifold to you BOV. See below which may help you understand that this line needs to be hooked up to your BOV take note in the how it works portion.

The functions of a blow off valve

Without a blow off valve, when you let off of the gas, the compressed air in your intake piping increases to great pressures as the turbines in the turbocharger are forced to a screeching halt. The extreme pressure forces the air back through the turbocharger, increasing the wear on the turbo. With a blow off valve, when you let off of the gas the air pressure left in your intake piping is relieved as the blow off valve opens up. This allows your turbo to continue spinning in the proper direction, preventing damage to the turbo and allowing for a faster return to positive air pressure in the intake piping.

How it works

A small diameter hose runs from the intake manifold to the blow off valve. When the pressure in the intake manifold is positive (in boost), the pressure in the small hose keeps the wastegate closed. Once you let off of the gas, the throttle plate closes, and all of the air in the intake manifold is sucked into the engine. With negative, or zero pressure in the intake manifold, the blow off valve opens up and releases all of the compressed air from the intake piping.

Now hook that line back up and do another boost leak test and let us know where the leaks are coming from and if needed post up a photo. After you check for any other leaks I recommend you take a look at your timing marks and just verify they all line up.

 

[1990eagletalon]

check your fuel filter, fuel pump, and injectors, make sure they are clean and are working, seems like your not getting enough fuel and wants to die or stall out because of it.

 

[iguanahotsauce]

I've been following this thread off and on for a bit now and it keeps coming back that you're leaking pressure from the line that comes off your manifold to you BOV. See below which may help you understand that this line needs to be hooked up to your BOV take note in the how it works portion.

The functions of a blow off valve

Without a blow off valve, when you let off of the gas, the compressed air in your intake piping increases to great pressures as the turbines in the turbocharger are forced to a screeching halt. The extreme pressure forces the air back through the turbocharger, increasing the wear on the turbo. With a blow off valve, when you let off of the gas the air pressure left in your intake piping is relieved as the blow off valve opens up. This allows your turbo to continue spinning in the proper direction, preventing damage to the turbo and allowing for a faster return to positive air pressure in the intake piping.

How it works

A small diameter hose runs from the intake manifold to the blow off valve. When the pressure in the intake manifold is positive (in boost), the pressure in the small hose keeps the wastegate closed. Once you let off of the gas, the throttle plate closes, and all of the air in the intake manifold is sucked into the engine. With negative, or zero pressure in the intake manifold, the blow off valve opens up and releases all of the compressed air from the intake piping.

Now hook that line back up and do another boost leak test and let us know where the leaks are coming from and if needed post up a photo. After you check for any other leaks I recommend you take a look at your timing marks and just verify they all line up.

Alright I will do that and see if it still leaks

 

[donalddomogala]

Throttle Position Sensor it sounds like .

Did you check the Throttle Position Sensor .

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Hey everyone sorry I haven't responded in a while. So I did another boost leak test with the BOV still connected and there is still a huge leak but I can't figure out where it's coming from. I think it's somewhere around the intercooler. It's not holding any pressure at all. I'm going to try and do another boost leak test tonight and spray it with soapy water to pinpoint the leak

 

[camas90gsx]

Have you tried another maf? If you have a spare or a friend that would let you use one then check it out.When my 1g maf started to go bad it did the same thing as far as sputtering and stammering.Is it back firing at all? If so maybe a lean condition caused by an issue with fuel like filter,pump or fpr etc..I would do a good b.l.t. again just to make sure.Vacuum leaks are a bi***.I just fixed a huge leak from my t.b. to my intake mani that completely changed my boost,a/f ratios,idle surge,and a ton of other issues just from that leak.You could actually hear it leaking from the intake manifold.Also check the biss o-ring,if its leaking it can cause havoc and it can be super loud as well.Good luck man,i know how frustrating it can be.My money would be on major boost/vacuum leak or bad maf or both maybe?

 

[iguanahotsauce]

Have you tried another maf? If you have a spare or a friend that would let you use one then check it out.When my 1g maf started to go bad it did the same thing as far as sputtering and stammering.Is it back firing at all? If so maybe a lean condition caused by an issue with fuel like filter,pump or fpr etc..I would do a good b.l.t. again just to make sure.Vacuum leaks are a bi***.I just fixed a huge leak from my t.b. to my intake mani that completely changed my boost,a/f ratios,idle surge,and a ton of other issues just from that leak.You could actually hear it leaking from the intake manifold.Also check the biss o-ring,if its leaking it can cause havoc and it can be super loud as well.Good luck man,i know how frustrating it can be.My money would be on major boost/vacuum leak or bad maf or both maybe?

I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, BISS o-ring, tb shaft seals, and the large o-ring in the turbo all recently. I don't know anyone else with a dsm so I don't have another maf I can try I know there's a huge leak somewhere because when I hook up my tester it wont hold any pressure at all and when the car is running it will only boost to about 3psi, now I just need to find the damn leak

 

[camas90gsx]

What kind of shape is your wastegate actuator in? If its sticking or not working you wont get boost.If its broken it will sometimes register on your boost gauge as 1-3 lbs but wont go up any more than that.Just grab it with a pliers and pull up and down on it and see what happens.Also,you can actually test it,its similar to a b.l.t. There are youtube videos on how to.If its not holding boost you have the same thing that was happening to me last week.It would not hold any air at all when i would hit it with the compressor.I could hear air rushing out around the intake and couldnt figure out what it was coming from.Then i replaced the gasket between the t.b. and intake and wala! Now it holds all the way to 25 lbs and no leaks at all.When you pressurize it with air during the boost leak test feel around the back side of the t.b. and below the throttle cable and i.s.c. It can leak from the around there and the f.i.a.v. as well.

I've replaced the fuel pump, filter, BISS o-ring, tb shaft seals, and the large o-ring in the turbo all recently. I don't know anyone else with a dsm so I don't have another maf I can try I know there's a huge leak somewhere because when I hook up my tester it wont hold any pressure at all and when the car is running it will only boost to about 3psi, now I just need to find the damn leak

I have a 1g maf you can use to test it out if need be.I live in the camas/washougal area.Call me at 509-218-0145 if you need the maf to use or just an extra hand as well.

 

[jamarh85]

On top off all the other things mentioned in the above post have your figured out what your base fuel pressure is? Haven't had a chance to boost leak test it yet but my car shows some of the same symptoms that your does and my base fuel pressure wont go over 22. When i adjust my fpr it will only go down not up. When i have time i just have to figure out if my pump is going, if something is i the line or ff, or worst case my fpr is bad.

 

[camas90gsx]

On top off all the other things mentioned in the above post have your figured out what your base fuel pressure is? Haven't had a chance to boost leak test it yet but my car shows some of the same symptoms that your does and my base fuel pressure wont go over 22. When i adjust my fpr it will only go down not up. When i have time i just have to figure out if my pump is going, if something is i the line or ff, or worst case my fpr is bad.

Is it the stock pump? If not, if it is rewired check your connection.My bro in law had a similar situation with his laser 1g and his connection on his rewire was bad.Ofcourse he noticed it after he ordered another walbro and was about to install it.

 

[Spoolin92GSX]

To the OP, I feel I need to ask this.. Are you setting the engine to Top Dead Center when you do the boost leak test? I made that mistake my first test. The O2 sensor could absolutely be causing you problems with your fuel trims. (Mine stopped cycling and stuck at 0.03V)

 

[cliffkemp]

Before the OP can figure out the fuel pump, injectors, or any other issues, he must get the leaks fixed. It is pointless to run around in circles with all the other things until he gets the leaks fixed.

Please fix the boost/vacuum leaks first. Until then, there is no point in doing anything else anyone suggests because it is not going to fix the problem. If you have to, dismantle the whole intake system from the throttle body to the turbo and reassemble it somewhere and do a boost leak on the whole assembly seperate from the car so that you know it is not leaking. Include the blowoff valve and use vacuum covers for any ports that go to the intake/turbo and seal the entire assembly. Run however much boost you feel you want through...at least 15 pounds...fix any leaks. Reassemble in the car and, you must follow timing instructions to be sure your valves are closed and do a leak test with everything assembled. You can refer to other threads or youtube videos to do the test to see what leaks mean what.

It is possible you may have bent/leaking valves, intake manifold gasket, bad blowoff valve seal (depending on the blowoff valve you have), bad pcv valve, turbo seal, punctured intercooler, and a few other things.

Fix as many of the leaks as you can, as best as you can and make a video if necessary so we can see what is going on as well.