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Hole in the block :-( weld cast iron.

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You can weld it cold but have to do it 1/4" at a time. Would take HOURS.
Too bad you can't run the damn motor to preheat it LOL.
Mr tig had a video within the past few months for what I believe was cast iron and didn't require a pre or post heat. Maybe look into that.
 
Whats your plans for cleaning out the block? To be most safe I'd be pulling it out and cleaning out the block to save your bearings, but I don't know if this is optional for you?

Do you already have a balance shaft delete?
 
If your patch fails it could cause a huge fire! Think about it, new block or new car..

I threw a rod and it puked all over my downpipe but I had a fire extinguisher in car.. Just my 2c


Any car i touch fuel lines in i carry a mini kiddie in the back seat at all times. Ive already seen a crappy an fitting come undone and luckily smelled it. No fire but it could very easily happen.

Lol, one of my first and shitties cars was a ford Tempo. Something happened, maybe a massive hole in the piston or something but it ejected the dipstick and shot oil all over the manifold. Caught fire instantly before i even got to the shoulder of the highway and burned that POS to the ground. I take it back, that POS was not mine, it was a girl i was dating who owned it haha.

Moral of the story: never ever hurts to carry an extinguisher. You could lose 30 grand and countless hours of labor in 5 minutes. Car fires are RAPID.

OP: Good luck getting that fixed.

Mi"sma;153422034 said:
This might be a bad idea, but depending on where the hole is could he tap in a plug to ventilate the crank case? Could be a bad situation turned good for extra engine health. This depends though on where the hole is and clearance, etc...

Just thinking out loud....


I know my next build im turning the rear BS hump in to a big ass vent. Best place to vent is from down low. As long as its baffled
 
[img=http://s24.postimg.org/tfid7js4x/CAM00387.jpg] The patch. Lol applied wrinkle paint over it.

Rated for what temperature?

Essentially you asked a question and then ignored the advice of everyone who has experienced advice. The #1 thing you want to do is to remove that block because of all the iron you've dispersed around in the inside. You cannot flush that with an oil change because by the time any new oil splashes everywhere you need it to, you've already sucked a huge amount into your supply.

Oh dear. Good luck. See you in the next thread "so I spun my bearings after painting my block with wrinkle paint."
 
I know my next build im turning the rear BS hump in to a big ass vent. Best place to vent is from down low. As long as its baffled

I'm going to vent mine as well, using a 6an line on my 4g64 block. It's already got a tapped plug so just need to swap it out.

I hope the OP's engine survives this. Really should've torn it apart and cleaned it properly.
 
Rated for what temperature?

Essentially you asked a question and then ignored the advice of everyone who has experienced advice. The #1 thing you want to do is to remove that block because of all the iron you've dispersed around in the inside. You cannot flush that with an oil change because by the time any new oil splashes everywhere you need it to, you've already sucked a huge amount into your supply.

Oh dear. Good luck. See you in the next thread "so I spun my bearings after painting my block with wrinkle paint."

Well you know there wasn't tiny shavings of c iron in the block except for the flakes that fell since I notice a tiny little hole and I tried to feel it and accidently poked it in when I notice I've gone too far. The surface was too thin so it just broke off and fell inside. So I dropped the oil pan and saw the flakes that puzzled to match the hole AND blew compress air threw the hole and clean the block very good. And Ill keep you guys posted on how the car runs. Im fine. I just need to be sure the patched sealed very good meanwhile the other block is being assemble.
 
lots of good advice from people who have no experience welding blocks, they are not cast iron. they can be mig welded quite nicely. here is a weld I did in my back yard.
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nickle rod stitch weld. My buddy has done that to a couple 53 block 24v cummins that had block casting issue. Zero issues in 7+ years and 60+psi boost. Hell, he welded the one in his personal truck with the longblock still in the truck
 
I can lay a bead on cast iron with a mig that looks like it was done with a tig welder, but it cracks every time. So of coarse you can physically weld the 2 pieces together, but without the correct pre heat, filler, heat range and so on it will crack.
 
I can lay a bead on cast iron with a mig that looks like it was done with a tig welder, but it cracks every time. So of coarse you can physically weld the 2 pieces together, but without the correct pre heat, filler, heat range and so on it will crack.

Haha, yep. Me too. I'm still eagerly waiting to hear what the block is cast from.
 
I
So of coarse you can physically weld the 2 pieces together, but without the correct pre heat, filler, heat range and so on it will crack.


This, and good luck finding a cast iron filler unless it's a part of the original parent material. Best bet is braze cause you arent melting the parent metal and no need to worry about embrittlement.

The blocks are not cast iron? What are they?


ALUMINUM!!!!!

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You can weld cast iron with nickle rod or stainless wire, plus your typical silicon/aluminum bronze brazing. Ive mig welded 38mm external wastegates to stock exhaust manifolds and have done a few broken ears on several blocks with 309l and its worked out extremely well for me. For me its always go cold and slow.

Our blocks are most definitely cast iron. Spark tests and drilling confirms it.
 
I can lay a bead on cast iron with a mig that looks like it was done with a tig welder, but it cracks every time. So of coarse you can physically weld the 2 pieces together, but without the correct pre heat, filler, heat range and so on it will crack.

funny I have had a mig welder of some sort for 30 years. I cant weld cast iron with one. have tried a few times.

these blocks are cast steel. big difference. I have welded a dozen ears back on blocks. none have cracked in use.
 
funny I have had a mig welder of some sort for 30 years. I cant weld cast iron with one. have tried a few times.

these blocks are cast steel. big difference. I have welded a dozen ears back on blocks. none have cracked in use.

It is cast iron.
 
hell i've welded stainless steel to cast iron with a crap harbor frieght flux core mig. It was on a turbo I ran ran for over a year (till I sucked a rock in at 50+psi). I'll snap a pic. fyi It looks like crap but it held
 

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funny I have had a mig welder of some sort for 30 years. I cant weld cast iron with one. have tried a few times.

these blocks are cast steel. big difference. I have welded a dozen ears back on blocks. none have cracked in use.

Hmm....this must be incorrect.
 

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Hmm....this must be incorrect.

is is incorrect. the blocks are cast steel. maybe turbo blocks were better? mitsubishi can advertise however they want. they advertised the evo 8 as having hollow intake valves. and are they hollow? not even close.

bottom line for me. call them cast iron if you will. but they weld with a mig welder without cracking. no pre heating or slowed cool time either. cast is known as one of the most difficult materials to weld. these blocks are not .

so stop being a 12 year old and take it or leave it.
 
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