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Higher Redline?

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Point me in the direction to get the springs and retainers?

Just go into the parts catalog at the top of this website. Then go into engine parts and valvetrain. I went with some BC valve springs and retainers and BC 272 cams. That combo should be pretty good for around there, but make sure you have a strong enough block as well. High rpm's put a ton of strain in the internals.
Also check the forum here vendor announcements. Some really good deals there sometimes. Got my BC 272 cams brand new for 304.99 shipped.
 
Most of the DSM vendors sell the valve train parts you would need. I've found that the 3g lifters are also needed, as one of my friend's cars with cams, springs and retainers siezed a rocker and floated a valve with the high reving due to lack of oil on the rockers. It was really an odd thing, and I think the cam siezed too, but the point is if your going to be revving high all the time you need to make sure you have ALL the equipment. Don't forget that if you have a high milage engine the lower end could be brittle to. The stock redline is there for a reason, so be careful when playing with it. Thats my $.02
 
yeah but the stock redline is 7400rpm to push it to 8k wouldnt be that much of a jump i think the stock valve train could handle that. now weather you make power over that mark is a different story depening on turbo size and cams and what not.
 
You are correct. They most certainly can. Many, many folks have gone to 8.5K on daily drivers w/ upgraded cam shafts. Think higher lift and more duration that will increase the likelyhood of valve float/bounce. But this does not happen. 8500 rpms and hks 272s w/ a stock valve train is a breeze. If there has been a failure, then it was bound to happen anyway. Too many have done this.

91TurboTalonFWD, why do you want to rev this high? Stock bumpsticks die long before this. Even if you were to shift very high to drop into a good torque range for the next gear (for drag racing), then you still don't need to rev this high using stock cams. A stock intake manifold becomes quite a restriction at this level, as well.
 
I was just interested how this could be done im trying to finish up my 91 tsi stock build up for NOW and later get going with a 16G i have a longblock behind my house that ill give to my brother and he can build it up how he wants and drop it in a shell so i was wondering how a higher redline could be achevied
 
Don't know what you have for a tranny but keep in mind that the factory 5 speed does'nt like to shift very well at higher rpm's.
 
A old stock tranny wont like to shift past 7.5.
A 16g wont hold much boost up to 8.5...
With a turbo car no need to use high revs to pull more airflow when you can up boost.
Ive hit 8.5k rpm on stock head by mistake... I set the red line to 8k ( chip tune. )
I dont think 8k will pose any problems to your valve train as long as the head is
in good condition to begin with.
Do a little more research before throwing out a number to were you want to rev to,
rev to were you make the peak power at and then shift.. No point going beyond that.
 
Most of the DSM vendors sell the valve train parts you would need. I've found that the 3g lifters are also needed, as one of my friend's cars with cams, springs and retainers siezed a rocker and floated a valve with the high reving due to lack of oil on the rockers. It was really an odd thing, and I think the cam siezed too, but the point is if your going to be revving high all the time you need to make sure you have ALL the equipment. Don't forget that if you have a high milage engine the lower end could be brittle to. The stock redline is there for a reason, so be careful when playing with it. Thats my $.02

Im just curious what can make the bottom end brittle? And what parts are "brittle"?? Just curious.
 
Age. Heat cycling. Hard use.

It's funny how many people focus entirely on revving the engine as high as possible, just because 'it's cool'... only explanation that the Honduh kids were able to give when I pointed out just how hard it is for a reciprocating engine to cope with that kind of stress. We don't drive sportbikes. What's the damn point in trying to sound like one?
Drop in a 2.3L stroker. You'll make tons more torque, won't put as much strain on the engine, and will push just as many ponies... with a faster spool time and harder kick.

If you want to rev stupidly high, just go with the 4g61 crank and destroke it down to 1.7L... bottom end should be good to go well over 11K, and with some triple springs and undercut valves, your valvetrain should be able to keep up too. Won't make piss for power, but you'll sound like a chainsaw on crack, if that's the entire point of this exercise.
 
Age. Heat cycling. Hard use.

It's funny how many people focus entirely on revving the engine as high as possible, just because 'it's cool'... only explanation that the Honduh kids were able to give when I pointed out just how hard it is for a reciprocating engine to cope with that kind of stress. We don't drive sportbikes. What's the damn point in trying to sound like one?
Drop in a 2.3L stroker. You'll make tons more torque, won't put as much strain on the engine, and will push just as many ponies... with a faster spool time and harder kick.

Agree, and a 2.3 stroker is still safe up to 8k rpms before side loading worries
so that still gives you a good amount of revs to play with plus a boarder power band.

Won't make piss for power, but you'll sound like a chainsaw on crack, if that's the entire point of this exercise.

Lol.
 
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