High output saturn alternator w/ relocated battery questions

[MrKelly]

To start, this thread should be in electrical but I have noob status, so its here. When I changed my email, my account info was reset so I lost my member since 03, had a dsm or 2 since 01 though. That said, I need some of the electrical guru's that helped me out over the years to take a look at the way I wired it up to this point and what direction the next step should be . Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think, I'm open to any justified critcism as long as it helps. Reason for change is dead mitsu 90 amp ark2 alternator #52. So I just ordered a saturn 160 amp high output "guy says money back 95 amp at idle, 160 amp at 1300rpm" has a good track record, so we'll see. DBelctronics on ebay, bought alternator from him 2 years ago for the 502 in my boat, worked great and was right in spec with his numbers. Also bought Jay's relocation kit to get it away from the heat a little bit. So I'm a little confused with how to reconnect everything under the hood with the extra amperage. First I feel like running the extra amperage through the fuse box is a bad idea. If I connect it to the battery side of the dist block, I feel like the amperage can choose whether the battery or the car needs it and there's fuses in both directions in case of issues, also the wire would be shorter. This is a street car that has some electrical draw: double din nav, hid's, 2 spal fans(11 amp each), 800 watt amplifier, aem ems/wideband, and the basics, guages, walboro pump, arc ignition box ect.. I'm over voltage issues with this car and want to get this right finally. Tear it apart guys and let me know what you think also does anyone think 160 amps isn't enough, the alternator comes in 200 and 220 amp versions. I don't want to fry anything in the factory loom or the ems, but at the same time I don't want to under power it either. Link for the Alternator
NEW SATURN SC SL HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR 160 AMP | eBay

 

[everydaydriven]

The bigger the better. As long as the regulator dosent shit out you shouldn't ever have a problem, once the battery is full the regulator send signal an bypasses the electric to the battery! Make sure all goods are ran off the battery. An also run with a fuse link.
Thanks,
Jake

 

[DSM_PWR]

This is how im doing mine, using a 200amp Saturn with 0 gauge wiring

MS Paint skills FTW

 

[tturbolife1]

Let me know how this works out im in NJ also and im thinking of doing the same thing.

 

[knochgoon24]

You won't be supplying 150amps down that wire from the alternator to the battery. No need to increase the breaker size in the trunk.

You may need to do something about the fuse in the fuse box. But I've run a 140amp alternator through the 100amp stock fuse and never even had that pop. But connecting a 200amp fuse between the alternator and the distribution block should work (like you drew).

 

[tturbolife1]

Just found that out the hard way, i was actually tripping my 150amp breaker in the trunk only when trying to start the car,and bypassed the breaker and blew the fuse. So i read a post on here and started grounding everything in my engine not just intake mani and coil pack. Ever since the grounds connected i havent had a problem.

 

[Rich_Howell]

The best/most simple way is to have the charge wire go to a circuit breaker...then directly to the battery. Keep the 10awg white wires that go from the battery to the fuse box. Run a large wire from the battery-side of the circuit breaker to the starter. For the line that goes from your battery to your amps, also use an appropriately sized circuit breaker. Always pad you circuit breaker ratings w/ a bit of overhead. 160amp alt = 200amp breaker...200amp alt = 250amp breaker. Heat in the engine bay can artificially lower the breaking point and you want to be able to draw full tilt on the alt PLUS whatever your battery can dish...if need be for serious bass enjoyment/masochism.

Having more amperage potential can't harm anything. Nothin will pull more or less power than it's supposed to. The additional grounds definitely help too.

 

[knochgoon24]

If you're putting the battery in the hatch, you'd want a fuse/breaker as close to it as you can to limit the amount of unprotected wire. I have a breaker about 8" from the battery.

I would NOT run a cable the length of the car with the only fuse/breaker being in the engine bay. That's asking for a fire.

And if you want to save some wire, you can just put your kill switch the main wire to the engine bay and the rewire circuit from your fuel pump. Just get a kill switch with an auxiliary circuit and put the fuel pump circuit through that. Then you'll only be running 1 wire the length of the car.

When you hit the switch, it will kill battery and fuel pump power. The engine will shut off from no fuel so the alternator won't provide any power. With the battery disconnected, the car will be dead. It does starve with fuel fast enough to make tech guys happy.

 

[MrKelly]

I don't have time this sec but I'll post an update later, I went with the 200 amp from motorcity reman and changed the wiring a little bit with great results.