hesitation, bog at WOT

[GsxEcutioner]

Ok so 5 Ecu's later, link, and other stuff I just added. FIAV/ISC Blockoff, TB Shaft seals, new BOV, well, I got the car running again today, I always had this problem where it would hesitate at 4k for a bit, then loss of power, boost leak? I have no idea, I use the fog machine to check leaks, and it was only at the TB. Well After I replaced the shaft seals and FIAV/ISC Block off, my vacuum is normal 18 in hg, But now under WOT It seems to bog at 4k hesistate and all the bs. Is this a boost leak? I have no idea, I also have to replace the injector wires tomorrow because the wires are kind of rigged. So, does anyone else have an idea besides BLT? Was I supposed to put RTV on the tb when reinstalling? When I took it off it didnt have rtv on it at all.
-Shane

 

[kmj 4g63t]

When your driving at wot, once you start boosting does the engine hesitate? Does it hesitate when you slowly go up through the rpm? If you have a 2g maf and it's doing this, it's 100% your maf, it's happend to me twice both times with different turbo's.

My car would hesitate as I reached a certain point in throttle and once it started boosting it would hesitate, but if I slowly put my foot on the gas there would be no problem.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

When your driving at wot, once you start boosting does the engine hesitate? Does it hesitate when you slowly go up through the rpm? If you have a 2g maf and it's doing this, it's 100% your maf, it's happend to me twice both times with different turbo's.

My car would hesitate as I reached a certain point in throttle and once it started boosting it would hesitate, but if I slowly put my foot on the gas there would be no problem.

yes at WOT when boost kicks in anywhere it will bog, if i go slow it doesnt hesitate as much, it will after boost kicks in and always at the same rpm range, and yes I also have a 2g maf.

 

[kmj 4g63t]

yes at WOT when boost kicks in anywhere it will bog, if i go slow it doesnt hesitate as much, it will after boost kicks in and always at the same rpm range, and yes I also have a 2g maf.

If you know someone with a 2g switch it over and check if not, you can test your maf at 2000rpm and see with a multimeter if your getting 5v (not the wire to the refrence of the ecu). When I did mine it showed 0. I can get the exact steps from my mitchell on monday.

But your best bet is just to swap mafs and see what happens. Your problem is that though if what I explained is exactly whats happening!!!

 

[rocafellafw]

I had the same exact problem after doing a bunch of work around the motor. Only hesitated under boost or hard acceleration. It turned out I had accidentally ripped the wire out of the knock sensor behind the block. A faulty knock sensor will DEFINITELY cause this type of problem, consider testing yours.

 

[dsmgreddy]

Replace the wires first....how are your plugs and which kind and what is the gap.....I had the same problem a couple different times...one time my walbro was bad and not giving sufficient fuel....the other time my wires were worthless....and I had some bogging issues with improper gap....I switched to iridium gapped at .028 on e85 and no problems...smooth

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[LiquidX]

First off do a proper boost leak test with a pressure source to above what you will be running and spray soapy water while looking for bubbles to form.

Next, how do yor plugs look? What brand/model and gap. For a stock setup you want to be on NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 0.028

Have you tested both your coil pack and the PTU located next to the coil pack? Also are your plug wires good and not arcing?

 

[GsxEcutioner]

First off do a proper boost leak test with a pressure source to above what you will be running and spray soapy water while looking for bubbles to form.

Next, how do yor plugs look? What brand/model and gap. For a stock setup you want to be on NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 0.028

Have you tested both your coil pack and the PTU located next to the coil pack? Also are your plug wires good and not arcing?

I had a dsm shop check everything, My coils are good, wires are nearly new, Plugs are BPR7ES gapped to .028, I have another maf in the house, uhm I accidentally dropped the one thats in my car right now, maybe thats why it broke? , but also my knock sensor isnt squishy or anything and I did not rip off the wires to it.
-Shane
PS: Am I supposed to use RTV on the TB gaskets?

oh yea, btw my mods list is up to date, and i do run rich for some reason.

 

[kmj 4g63t]

I had a dsm shop check everything, My coils are good, wires are nearly new, Plugs are BPR7ES gapped to .028, I have another maf in the house, uhm I accidentally dropped the one thats in my car right now, maybe thats why it broke? , but also my knock sensor isnt squishy or anything and I did not rip off the wires to it.
-Shane
PS: Am I supposed to use RTV on the TB gaskets?

oh yea, btw my mods list is up to date, and i do run rich for some reason.

You run rich because your maf is probably DONE! I was running 10/1 when my maf was defective . I don`t wanna round your problem down so quickly without going through everything, but I had the EXACT same problem.

 

[ulitka]

Are you dataloging using you ECM link?
Post a log, would be much easier to determine the issue.
Make sure to log your fuel trims, CombinedFT, MAF Row.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Are you dataloging using you ECM link?
Post a log, would be much easier to determine the issue.
Make sure to log your fuel trims, CombinedFT, MAF Row.

will do, do i log from? 3rd gear pull til redline?
-Shane

 

[LiquidX]

Just long your normal driving and make sure you get the issue that's occurring in the log as well.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

ok will do.

 

[jrdrew5]

Ok sorry no thread steal here, but what is WOT


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[jaydubb1988]

Ok sorry no thread steal here, but what is WOT


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wide open throttle haha

 

[jrdrew5]

Duhhhhhhhhhhhhh no wonder that would be in this forum for us dsmer's


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[ulitka]

will do, do i log from? 3rd gear pull til redline?
-Shane

For now just do crusing for about 5-10mins and about 1minute of idle and insure engine is at normal operating temperatures. After that we can determine if your fuel trims make sense and if they need any adjustments. Once your fuel trims are close to zero +/-5 you can do a 3rd gear WOT pull and post a log.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

ok, well im sick as a dog now, i maybe able to get out there today to drive around, if my head stops spinning , and What am I logging? Maf, FT and what else?

 

[ulitka]

ok, well im sick as a dog now, i maybe able to get out there today to drive around, if my head stops spinning , and What am I logging? Maf, FT and what else?

I assume you registered to ecmlink forum. Check out this link for setting up your fuel trims, it instructs on what values to log:
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

After that you can fine tune your MAF:
v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]

Once you got above done, do a WOT and post a log.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

I thought that the chip came preset for the mods I had put down when I ordered link, I guess not? I still have to do a blt tmrw, and a log, will get it up asap.
-shane

 

[GsxEcutioner]

My TPS on link says 80% when my foot is on WOT. Let me know what you think.
-Shane

 

[GsxEcutioner]

hey, can my bog be because I have a low temp thermostat installed? 160*F, Maybe its running super rich because it doesnt warm up?

 

[ulitka]

My TPS on link says 80% when my foot is on WOT. Let me know what you think.
-Shane

You need to adjust your TPS. The easy way is through DSMLink adjustment tool (TPS Adjust).
TPS Adjust is very simple, with engine OFF datalog TPSVolts and ThrotPos, press gas pedal all the way down (simulating WOT) and release gas pedal (simulating idle) repeat couple times, stop dataloging, right click on your datalog graph and select 'TPS Adjust', click OK, from RPM/TPS Tab make sure the following are checked ('Enable TPS Adjustment', 'Enable idle switch operation'. 'Simulate idle switch from TPS') and make sure 'Disable idle switch while moving' is NOT checked, Copy to ECU RPM/TPS settings. You will note that TPS Adjust tool will update 'TPS Offset' field under RPM/TPS Tab. Start the engine and verify your TPSVolts read 0.63V.

The hard way is to physically adjust TPS (engine off, loose two bolts that hold TPS and rotate TPS clockwise by 2mm or so, turn iginition key to on position without cranking engine, start dataloging TPSVolts, you want to see 0.63V under TPSVolts, secure two bolts and you good to go).

hey, can my bog be because I have a low temp thermostat installed? 160*F, Maybe its running super rich because it doesnt warm up?

I do see from your datalog that your Coolant Temperatures fluctuate in the range of 160 and 190. It is true that between 126 and 176deg ECU will enrich your fuel by 5.5%, you can see this setting under 'ECU Direct Access (Live)'//CoolantTempFuelAdj.

I would install something like 180deg thermostat.

Not sure how much it may contribute to your bog issue. TPSAdjustment would be on my priority list 1st.

Also, you need to capture your fuel trims once you get your TPS adjusted.

 

[GsxEcutioner]

You need to adjust your TPS. The easy way is through DSMLink adjustment tool (TPS Adjust).
TPS Adjust is very simple, with engine OFF datalog TPSVolts and ThrotPos, press gas pedal all the way down (simulating WOT) and release gas pedal (simulating idle) repeat couple times, stop dataloging, right click on your datalog graph and select 'TPS Adjust', click OK, from RPM/TPS Tab make sure the following are checked ('Enable TPS Adjustment', 'Enable idle switch operation'. 'Simulate idle switch from TPS') and make sure 'Disable idle switch while moving' is NOT checked, Copy to ECU RPM/TPS settings. You will note that TPS Adjust tool will update 'TPS Offset' field under RPM/TPS Tab. Start the engine and verify your TPSVolts read 0.63V.

The hard way is to physically adjust TPS (engine off, loose two bolts that hold TPS and rotate TPS clockwise by 2mm or so, turn iginition key to on position without cranking engine, start dataloging TPSVolts, you want to see 0.63V under TPSVolts, secure two bolts and you good to go).



I do see from your datalog that your Coolant Temperatures fluctuate in the range of 160 and 190. It is true that between 126 and 176deg ECU will enrich your fuel by 5.5%, you can see this setting under 'ECU Direct Access (Live)'//CoolantTempFuelAdj.

I would install something like 180deg thermostat.

Not sure how much it may contribute to your bog issue. TPSAdjustment would be on my priority list 1st.

Also, you need to capture your fuel trims once you get your TPS adjusted.

thanks for the info, My car i set the CEL to come on at 205*F and it came on, so i know it got hot today, and it ran so much better in boost, but still not right, I see knock from time to time, and its not always consistant. How do I add fuel trims to my log?
-Shane

 

[ulitka]

thanks for the info, My car i set the CEL to come on at 205*F and it came on, so i know it got hot today, and it ran so much better in boost, but still not right, I see knock from time to time, and its not always consistant. How do I add fuel trims to my log?
-Shane

Thermost that opens at 160 will eventualy stay open once car is fully warmed up and that is a bad thing because coolant will not have a chance to cool down inside that radiator because of a constant flow. 180 thermostat will work better for you. It is not uncommon for our engines to reach 210deg coolant temperatures in hot weather when in traffic idling. On hot days i run both cooling fans and my coolant temperatures stay between 183 and 196deg, keep in mind that I have A/C system removed which helps airflow and I do have Koyo full aluminum radiator with two slim fans on the other side of the radiator.

To capture fuel trims you need to be connected to ECU, press F10 key (Captured Values) and select from left column your fuel trims (LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, STFT, CombinedFT) and move them to the right column. After that you need to hit F9 key (Displayed Values) and move the same items from left to right column. Start dataloging and refer to Quick A/F setup which you will find at DSMLink Wiki. Post a log once you do some idling and crusing.