Help with test power window switch

[rixcidia]

Hey guys I'm not sure how to read this pic but what Is happening is my main switch opens and closes every window in my 2G Spyder except my drivers side windows won't go up and down how do I read this to test if the harness is getting power to the drivers side windows by using the pic I provided I have a volt meter just not sure how to read which harness wire points I need to test thanks,

Rix.

 

[rixcidia]

Ok so when I check the volt for pins 27 and 28 when I press the switch up I get a volt reading of 0.018v and when I press down I get a reading of 0v's

 

[NHerron]

Do you have the connector hooked up going to the motor itself?

Put the black lead on shiny clean grounded metal and put red lead on either pin, 27 or 28. Then hit the switch up, then down and see if theres power

 

[rixcidia]

What do you mean by do you have the connector hooked up going to the motor itself?? I have every thing hooked up liked it would be normally then I unhooked the big blue connector from the top control module and put the volt meter to 27 and 28 like the pic above is the way I did it wrong? It's the blue connector the right one? And it is supposed to big plug in the module when testing?

 

[NHerron]

I mean the main two wire connector feeding the motor, in the door. But it's plugged in so thats good

Those two connectors are very similar, does the other plug have those wires?

Make sure to unplug the main 2 wire connector near motor and making sure you get power to the motor (pin 1) in the up position

 

[rixcidia]

Sorry im new to this electronic stuff haha The wires on the blue connector in the pic above looks like the wires in colour with the ones going to the harness that plugs into the master switch in question, and the one 2 wire cable you want me to disconnect is that one that I used to hook a 12v batt to to make sure the motor of the window still worked? If I disconnect that wont the window not have power going to it?

 

[NHerron]

No don't disconnect it, that's what I was making sure of. If it were disconnected then the connector at module won't show source voltage for sure.

Do this: (all tests make sure key is ON)
1. At driver's door, take the test light and ground it on some clean shiny metal. Hit the up button and make sure the light lights when you touch pin 1 (Green/Red stripe wire) at connector D-11 (main 2 wire connector for window motor, disconnect it)

If light lights up, good, now do this:
2. Reconnect D-11 connector. Go to the 'Convertible Top Control module' and disconnect connector E-54. Find pin 27 (Green/Black stripe wire) Ground test light to chassis ground (any bare metal in car, make sure it's a good ground though!) and while someone holds the window switch up, touch pin 27 with test light. It should light.

Let me know, it should only take a couple more checks to pinpoint exactly what's at fault. Don't get frustrated

 

[rixcidia]

I have a test light but its a ac test light it does work with DC voltage but I do have a volt meter with ohms and all can I use that instead?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

You can leave everything connected am back probe it while it is working to see what voltage is or is not there

 

[rixcidia]

Ok soo I got some news when I have the volt meter red lead connected to the Green/red strip wire of pin D-11 and the black wire from the volt meter grounded to the body of the car and then with the switch held on the up position I get 11.78V when I let go its 0V and when hold the switch in the down position I get 0V as well now... When I reconnect the D-11 connector and disconnect the E-54 connector from the convertible top control module I hooked up the red lead from the volt meter to the Green/Black pin 27 and grounded the black lead to body of my eclipse once again while holding the switch on the up position I get the reading of 11.78V but when I let go of the switch the volt meter says 0v and when pressing the switch down I get a 0v reading as well please let me know what you think next thanks.

Rix

 

[NHerron]

Okay according to your post 26, you get no reading where measuring between 27/28 with key on, switch up.

The latest test isolates this problem by checking whether its a ground problem or a power problem. We know the switch and everything before that is good because you got a 12v reading between pins 9/6 on back of switch. So when you see 12v between body ground and pin 27, the power side is fine, also the motor. The problen is the ground side. This is pin 28 of module, follow the wire via the diagram and see where the wire is cut, corroded etc.

To confirm you can take a piece of wire and ground it to the body. Now take the other end and connect it to pin 28 yellow/green (E-54 convertible top module) Hit the window down or up and verify it works. Oh and make sure to plug all connectors back up

 

[rixcidia]

Ok so I connected one wire to the body of my car and the other end to pin 28 like you said the window now rolls up with i press the switch up that way but when I try to get the window to roll down it does not work any idea on this?

Rix

 

[NHerron]

Yeah my bad, it won't roll down like that, but thats expected. The switch reverses the motors polarity so the wires will be flipped around. To roll down you would have to give that same wire positive voltage. Vice versa give it ground to roll up.

So apparently that wire is not connected anymore for whatever reason. Can you find any obvious problems? That wire does have to go through 3l connectors so check to make sure the wire isn't pulled out one of them. You can also start probing the wire for power starting at the door area, in that case you would ground the meter to chassis, hold and keep holding switch DOWN while probing the particular wire until you find where it's not reading voltage anymore

 

[rixcidia]

I can't find any issues that stand out I have had the dash out to fix the heather core while ago are there anyway to access those B related connectors that relate to pin 28 wire without pulling the dash out again? And when you say prob the wire by the door side which one the 27 pin one or 28 pin one??

Rix

 

[NHerron]

Pin 28. Somewhere between the door and module this wire is broken. You could run a new replacement wire, although I'm not sure the difficulty of that

 

[rixcidia]

....

Ok Great news this issue has been resolved!!!!!! I can't believe what it actually was well i used to have the Lamborghini door conversion kit on and had to get that wire harness extended well i look at that harness after following that wire and guess what I found??.....it was broken off I reconnected the wire and boom it's works!!!! Thanks sooo much for your help with this

Now I'm on to my last issue can't figure out why my cruise control won't work lights up on dash but won't engage..

 

[NHerron]

Oh my that looks like one hell of a mess... well good deal you found it! Stock harness wiring is usually pretty well designed to give very little if any problems so when I find a problem I look around for any homade modifications. 9times out of 10 it is not the stock wirings fault.

I'm glad you found it, now you can actually go through and order some fast food!

 

[rixcidia]

Yeah that's for sure i miss my drive thru haha do you think that door wire harness is easily changeable and easy to find?

 

[NHerron]

I really don't know for sure. Best bet would be search that manual and look at routing pictures and look under the dash to get an idea how hard it would be