Help selecting an engine..

[codym]

Alright.. heres what I got... luckily with the help of some caring family members I MAY be getting a new crate motor(I've insisted I can find a gently used on here on the forums for a fair price, they want something with 0 miles)

I've looked up on dsmgraveyard and sent them an email, but figured I'd get as much info as I can

I am eventually definently going turbo- but don't have the funds and wont be able to convince the fam of buying a new engine AND items to go turbo (tuning device, injectors.. manifolds etc. ) so please keep in mind the fact that I am staying naturally aspirated for now !

I want an engine that I will not have to swap trannies or anything else- simply drop the blown out- swap the new shiny in.

I am looking at the stock rebuilt crate engine - with the 6 bolt block and oil squirters built it.. my worries about my future turbo plan is the compression - am I able to run a "turbo-ready" engine at a lower compression while it has no turbo ?

What would be the best options while selecting an engine that would save me from having too much work done down the road ?

Please give as much input as I will be checking this thread often!

 

[boost97gst]

Did you say dsmgraveyard?.......

type "dsmgraveyard" in the search bar and get ready for a ride. Thank god you posted before you ordered. Dont call, dont email, dont THINK of doing business. Youre going to hear what ive said about a million posts following mine .

OP: Yes you can run 8.5:1 comp with no problems NA, it just wont make as much power as say... a 10:1. But if they were to spring for forged rods/pistons you could get the best of both worlds with a 9 or 9.5 comp, then have a turbo ready engine that would plenty fast when you boost it.

Like ive said before, and i know i dont have any clout here yet, but mods: i think its time for a vendor warning section dedicated to these guys. See this poor guy, cody, could have get the ass ramming of a life time had he not been warned. I dont know how ANYONE can miss their reputation even w a google search but i think a serious boycott effort is in order.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I haven't heard great things about dsmgy crate motors, so a motor from the classifieds might be a better idea.

If you know any local dsm vets/junkies that can put a motor together in the dark, that would be your best bet. As for the miles, they don't really matter on a fresh rebuild and if all the interals are inspected and check out.

 

[Tyeler18]

FIRST. Do NOT (can't stress enough NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT) buy ANYTHING from dsm graveyard. Look at their vendor reviews on here. Hell there's a thread that was posted about them not long ago where they were just getting completely bashed by every single person posting.

2nd- 7.8:1 compression (stock turbo compression) pistons are going to be doggy as all hell without a turbo to go with it. If you're going rebuilt look for either 2g/evo pistons on 1g rods for your build, or just get forged (FYI you can get a complete shortblock built for $2000 from almost any online vendor on here). For $2000 you'd have a very bullet proof engine, and with 9.0:1 pistons you could put around just like stock until you boost it.

3rd- skip the oil squirters. They're generally* deleted upon building the engine, so your N/T block that came without oil squirters already puts you ahead.

 

[codym]

WOW thank you guys !

okay so could yall direct me to a (or a few) reliable vendors on here I could chat up doing business with ?

Im writing all this info down, so keep it comin !

 

[DSM1G90]

Do a search on JDM motors - I'm pleased with JDM motors since they're fully assembled, easy on the pocketbook and you could get a surprise getting a CYCLONE version DSM motor.

My Laser has a Galant VR4 JDM 4G63 6 bolt under the hood.

A Galant VR4 came with a B16G and 510 injectors making 225 BHP stock. Do some mild engine management and this motor can do nasty things stock without trying. My little problem that I have to watch out is 'wheel hop' being FWD when I drop the clutch, or get too crazy on the gas in 1st gear.

They're out there in the JDM world.

 

[Tyeler18]

Just look up in the vendor section for places like JAM, MAP, STM to name a few.

 

[undefined0000]

OP is an NT - He's either a 1.8L (4G37) or a 2.0 (4G63) Non Turbo since he's not specifying the motor under the hood.

Do a search on JDM motors - I'm pleased with JDM motors since they're fully assembled, easy on the pocketbook and you could get a surprise getting a CYCLONE version DSM motor.

That's true. Cody, do you have a 1.8 or a 2.0? I would hope that a 4g37 -> 4g63 swap wouldn't be as bad as a 420a -> 4g63

 

[codym]

OP is an NT - He's either a 1.8L (4G37) or a 2.0 (4G63) Non Turbo since he's not specifying the motor under the hood.
.

I figured my initial post would lean towards the fact that I already have a 4g63, as I havent seen much competition in the 1.8 liter area of our cars.. I was also unaware they made a turbo version of the 1.8... my apoligies for not specifying

 

[H@xtGSX]

Turbo 1.8.......

 

[codym]

I am eventually definently going turbo- but don't have the funds and wont be able to convince the fam of buying a new engine AND items to go turbo (tuning device, injectors.. manifolds etc. ) so please keep in mind the fact that I am staying naturally aspirated for now !

I want an engine that I will not have to swap trannies or anything else- simply drop the blown out- swap the new shiny in.

I am looking at the stock rebuilt crate engine - with the 6 bolt block and oil squirters built it.. my worries about my future turbo plan is the compression - am I able to run a "turbo-ready" engine at a lower compression while it has no turbo ?

!

Turbo 1.8.......

My point exactly

 

[007jimmy]

Get a 1g turbo 7bolt with 2g pistons and run a 1.8 hyundai head for added compression. Still workable once you go fully turbo.

 

[codym]

Lol you guys.... I want a 6-bolt crank.. 2.ZERO liter (unless someone will throw me a stroker xD ), simple, reliable, nothing fancy. this engine when swapped will be maintained properly, and not thrashed.

 

[undefined0000]

Jimmy's setup seems plausable. The 1G 7bolt is a different story than the 2g 7bolt.

 

[DSM1G90]

4G37 Turbo ....

It HAS been done ....

 

[codym]

but a hyundai head.. no thanks... Im not aiming for crazy ideas here... I just want simple and easy take old motor out put "new" motor in.

 

[undefined0000]

but a hyundai head.. no thanks... Im not aiming for crazy ideas here... I just want simple and easy take old motor out put "new" motor in.

Well just grab a used 1g 6 bolt and throw it in. If you don't want anything fancy, you can find the whole motor. People here are trying to make the transition to turbo as easy as possible for you. If you know what you want already, why ask? You can run the 4g63t on N/a, but its going to suck, but if you don't mind super-grandma-ing it around town till you start to build for turbo, do that.

 

[codym]

I understand making the transition easy, etc, but having a turbo transition later isnt AS important to me. Why go throwing around crazy ideas of a 1.8 head that looks and I assume functions differently then my current head - Wont things be different ? Wont wiring be different on a 1.8L head ?

2nd- 7.8:1 compression (stock turbo compression) pistons are going to be doggy as all hell without a turbo to go with it. If you're going rebuilt look for either 2g/evo pistons on 1g rods for your build, or just get forged (FYI you can get a complete shortblock built for $2000 from almost any online vendor on here). For $2000 you'd have a very bullet proof engine, and with 9.0:1 pistons you could put around just like stock until you boost it..

whats wrong with that idea ?


Not trying to be a dick man but I asked for simplicity from the start, a simple swap, and reccomendations on engines. I dont know exactly what I want, but I know when I do go turbo- it will be on a normal head not some wonky-lookin engine like the above picture.

 

[ChrisTheBuilder]

4G37 Turbo ....

It HAS been done ....

I think someone may have just set that on there for shi*s and gigs. Nothing is remotely hooked up, it doesn't even have more than 1-2 manifold studs holding it on.

I would also recommend staying away from dsm graveyard. My motor crank walked almost instantly. It wasn't even broke in yet.

 

[DSM1G90]

Nothing wrong with a 4G63 NT ... they've got more power than the 4G37 any day of the week...by a good 40 hp to start.

They hold their own in a decent form.

Why the 420A came along for the 2G's - the best of both worlds: Replace the 4G NT series (in as an agreement with Chrysler and Mits to eventually do the transfer - to use Chrysler products in an American built chassis owned by a Japanese company) and settle with one NT motor.

 

[codym]

Dam you fellars got me confused... and everytime I look out the window I see $3500 sitting in the street -__-

 

[007jimmy]

I understand making the transition easy, etc, but having a turbo transition later isnt AS important to me. Why go throwing around crazy ideas of a 1.8 head that looks and I assume functions differently then my current head - Wont things be different ? Wont wiring be different on a 1.8L head ?




whats wrong with that idea ?


Not trying to be a dick man but I asked for simplicity from the start, a simple swap, and reccomendations on engines. I dont know exactly what I want, but I know when I do go turbo- it will be on a normal head not some wonky-lookin engine like the above picture.

The 1.8 hyundai head is the same damn thing as the 2.0 head but with a smaller CC for added compression. All the valvetrain is swappable and the 4g63 VC fits too. Everything is a direct bolt on. Which means wires and sensors are still plug and play.
The hyundai head does not look like the above pic, as a matter of fact i run a 1.8 hyundai valve cover on my 2g. I think you got you motors confused here.

 

[codym]

Thank you, and yes I am confused.. I'm still new to these cars and I'm all ears , and really NOT trying to be a dick of any sort im just trying to get as much info as I can, I mean direct me to other threads I can read up on if possible, im trying to get a good understanding as to what would be beneficial, now and POSSIBLY later, and not have to go changing B C and D just to swap A.. Know where im coming from ? Like I said im new to these cars = meaning I have stupid questions, like wont I need a different tranny if I put a 7-bolt where the factory had a 6-bolt ?

We're all adults on this forum, and I'm really just trying to have a simple thread to get some info, and still give input on certain things im trying to stick to..

 

[Tyeler18]

Don't do a 1.8 swap. It's not worth it and its out of your goals anyways. A simple 9:1 engine will act stock while its n/a and make good power when you're ready. What's wrong with your current engine? I'd pull the head and ship the block off to a vendor mentioned for a $2000 forged bottom end. Get your timing kit, gaskets, and some ARP head studs and you'll have one awesome n/a forged platform to putt around in until you're ready. Factory n/t compression is 9.0:1 so it'll feel like a brand new stock block with capabilities to throw whatever at it all for ~$2500

Oh and fyi you have a 7 bolt. Just stick with it as a 6 bolt isn't worth swapping to.

 

[codym]

Don't do a 1.8 swap. It's not worth it and its out of your goals anyways. A simple 9:1 engine will act stock while its n/a and make good power when you're ready. What's wrong with your current engine? I'd pull the head and ship the block off to a vendor mentioned for a $2000 forged bottom end. Get your timing kit, gaskets, and some ARP head studs and you'll have one awesome n/a forged platform to putt around in until you're ready. Factory n/t compression is 9.0:1 so it'll feel like a brand new stock block with capabilities to throw whatever at it all for ~$2500

Oh and fyi you have a 7 bolt. Just stick with it as a 6 bolt isn't worth swapping to.

I have another thread about my engine blowing, still havent pulled it yet.

I thought I had a 6bolt.. ha