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Help me choose a suspension setup

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Let me get this straight then....

Just worry about the rear camber kit since its my Daily?
 
Just worry about the rear camber kit since its my Daily?

^ YES you still havent mentioned what your intent for the car is yet. Street only, a few track days, track day every weekend etc.
 
Let me get this straight then....

Just worry about the rear camber kit since its my Daily?
Yes.

Damn I had my mind made up on KYB GR-2's on suspension technique lowering springs for my daily with minimal track use.Y would this not be a "good" setup?Sorry dont know about suspension much.
I would hate that on the street, let alone on the track.

Gr-2's are pretty much the lowest end "performance" shock you can buy for our cars. They're commonly used as and are not really any better than the stock shocks. Often they blow out in short order when lowered - but don't worry someone will be along shortly to tell you how awesome his setup is and how his GR-2's and cheap springs make his car "ride on rails". :rolleyes:

The springs are the same old junk. GF210, Prokit, Sportlines, ST, Intrax, Tein etc etc etc. They're all simple springs designed to lower the car and be relatively comfy. Not an ounce of handling should be implied, but often is. The rates they use are often even softer spring rates than what the stock springs were. These types of springs are too low with weak rates for any serious level of performance since you'll be too busy slamming down on your bumpstops.

If you want to bounce ideas off of people or just discuss, go ahead and fire up a thread of you own. :)
 
The car is a daily driver, I might take it out to the track every now and again, But driven 50+ miles almost 7 days a week.
 
I was only talking about the rear. Figured you'd give me more credit than that. It should be common knowledge that the front doesn't usually need a kit.

EDIT: Oh, serves me right for not clicking the link. I ASSumed he was talking about a rear kit... you know..cause you don't need one for the front! Sorry OP, if my post was misleading.

Clearly, you now see what happened between us. I gave you credit for reading his post, instead of credit for knowing the front and rear bump-camber curves. I couldn't do both and had to choose one. Blame the coin I flipped to decide. :)

Note, however, how gentle my post was in contrast to how I usually write a "correction" of some sort. From that you know that I respect you.
 
The car is a daily driver, I might take it out to the track every now and again, But driven 50+ miles almost 7 days a week.

For completeness' sake... You only need to worry about the camber in the rear, but you need to worry about toe in both the front and rear. On stock bushings, zero toe - while best for tire wear - should be avoided as it will cause the car to wander on the highway. A smidgeon of toe-in is safer and best for tire wear. A smidgeon of toe-out in the front and toe-in in the rear is the best compromise between handling and tire wear, assuming you rotate the tires. Toe-out in both the front and rear is best for handling, but keep in mind that toe-out is much harder on tires than toe-in.
 
Thanks, Gonna order the kit & other parts i need.

How many shims should I use with the 1.7 Drop? From what i can see it should be about 3 with the research i have done
 
I'm not sure, since I wouldn't, personally, drop a 2G that much.

The height of the rear knuckle is around 24". A little trig will tell you how thick the washer stack needs to be to delete a given number of degrees of camber. If you are having it aligned at a shop, just bring the new, longer bolts and a handful of washers with you. Ask for about 2/3 as much camber in the rear as the front.

Or, search around and see what camber others ended up with and we can help with the trig. If you have already installed the bolts and washers and only need them to do toe, the alignment will be cheaper.
 
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