help getting rear sub frame bolt out

[sethpatch]

So i been stripping my car to get it ready to have the cage installed and repaint under the car. while I was doing all this I figured I would stitch weld the subframe and repaint this the problem is there's one bolt in the rear that won't come out.

the front drivers side bolts nut will not come off because the bolt just keeps spinning. I thought about drilling a hole above the bolt and welding it down to the chassis, but figured I would post on here before I did that.

anyone got any ideas?

 

[Insane20]

Try to put a pry bar between the head of the bolt and the sub frame " to pull pressure on the bolt". Have a friend pry down on it while you hit it with an impact gun.

 

[sethpatch]

Try to put a pry bar between the head of the bolt and the sub frame " to pull pressure on the bolt". Have a friend pry down on it while you hit it with an impact gun.

I tried that with not luck, i also dropped the subframe and let it put pressure on it and that didn't work. I'm gonna try to get to the top of it, but if i cant find it I thought about cutting the nut alittle and take a air hammer and split the nut off and buy a new one from jnz tuning.

 

[4G64T]

no room for vise grips to hold the stud? got any pictures?

 

[3kgt2nv]

it sounds like the bolt inside the subframe is stripped. best bet is going to be to use a die grinder or dremel tool to cut the nut on one side and pry it open off the threads. or cut both sides and remove it.

 

[TimIacobucci]

I'm not to familiar with the 2g rear subframe bolts but something similar happen to my 1g. The nut was severely rusted and I usually crank until they snap off because you are replacing the bolt at that point regardless once it's all apart.

Well more force resulted in the top part ripping away from it's hold down inside the car, where there was no real way to grab it. Mine was the right rear mustache brace bolt. Theres a little teardrop piece of sheetmetal that holds it from spinning. I ended up cutting it off and replacing it with a big socket head cap screw with a fat hardened washer under it.

Are the bolts in the 2g inside the frame rail? If so even if you cut the nut end off with a grinder you still are gonna have to cut the top open inside to even replace the bolt once you cut it anyways so I think seeing if you can weld it from there first might not be a bad idea if the bolt itself is still in good shape.

These are big high strength bolts with allot of torque on them. I pb blasted and torched mine to no avail. If there's nothing holding the other side securely anymore I don't think a pry bar or anything else is going to provide enough leverage to hold it. I had my whole subframe hanging off that one bolt with vice grips on it up top and it still just rotated my grips off until there was nothing left to grab onto on the top side. I honestly would just skip everything else and cut it off and drill the top open and plan on replacing it with something proper you can put a wrench on both sides of. I'm curious to see whats in there when you cut it open up top post up a picture.

 

[twicks69]

Just dealt with this on a customer car with both front and rear subframes, ended up cutting from above for access, removing the retainer sheet metal and then using a sawsall with demo blade and chopping the bolt in half between frame and subframe. Then replacing bolt with proper length metric fine pitch bolt and hardened washer and lock nut. Once it spins you are screwed as they are square head lag bolts.

 

[GRNDSM]

Check out how people with FWD to AWD swaps deal with installing new studs. That could give you some ideas how to deal with it.