AWD Rear Sub Frame, bolt seized

[NWHTanK]

Yes the prothane kit does . Its a pain to find online but its a complete kit for the back of the car. I can post the part number when I get home. It is works with awd and fwd ....

 

[miliman13]

Yes the prothane kit does . Its a pain to find online but its a complete kit for the back of the car. I can post the part number when I get home. It is works with awd and fwd ....

So there is in fact a rubber piece that sits in between the frame and the arm ?

And can i find just this ONE piece. Or do i have to order a whole kit ?

Not sure what they mean by nylon nut. As long as it comes with everything shown in the picture you posted from STM, that's all you need.

Apparently not

 

[NWHTanK]

It in my build thread. Page 5 . Part number for the prothane kit 13-301

 

[miliman13]

NWHTanK NWHTanK

Is that an SrT-4 motor swap you have ?

It in my build thread. Page 5 . Part number for the prothane kit 13-301

Can i get a link to it please ?

 

[NWHTanK]

I can't link up . Just click my name and goto my page then look up my post and click on project venom on page 5. The srt swap got parted out. A friend blew his trans and beged me for mine . But I told him he had to buy the engine and trans.

 

[miliman13]

OK found it, hey by the way, I've been checking your build thread for a while. BigFAN!!


Although there are lots of pics, i did not see any of the arm I'm changing out, maybe because you used 3g parts ?

Regardless were did you buy this kit from, and how much is it. it im guessing it works with 2G and 3G ?

 

[smills1840]

Here is the link to his build thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm...gst-spyder-project-venom-5.html#post153350691

If this is the post you are talking about, I'm pretty sure the OP is asking about the rear tow arm, not the rear lower control arm. If I am wrong and the OP is asking about the lower control arm, then disregard everything I posted.

Rear toe arm:

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Rear lower control arm:

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[NWHTanK]

I boxed in the arm that uses the sway bar end link. The toe arm I'm going with a modified intrepid arm. Yes it works with the 3g uppgrades as well.

 

[NWHTanK]

OK found it, hey by the way, I've been checking your build thread for a while. BigFAN!!


Although there are lots of pics, i did not see any of the arm I'm changing out, maybe because you used 3g parts ?

Regardless were did you buy this kit from, and how much is it. it im guessing it works with 2G and 3G ?

Thanks. The only part that is 3g that I'm using is the rear uppers..

 

[miliman13]

Here is the link to his build thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm...gst-spyder-project-venom-5.html#post153350691

If this is the post you are talking about, I'm pretty sure the OP is asking about the rear tow arm, not the rear lower control arm. If I am wrong and the OP is asking about the lower control arm, then disregard everything I posted.

Rear toe arm:

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Rear lower control arm:

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you are correct. the toe arm

 

[NWHTanK]

Here is the link to his build thread.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm...gst-spyder-project-venom-5.html#post153350691

If this is the post you are talking about, I'm pretty sure the OP is asking about the rear tow arm, not the rear lower control arm. If I am wrong and the OP is asking about the lower control arm, then disregard everything I posted.

Rear toe arm:

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Rear lower control arm:

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The above toe arm looks to be a fwd part. The diffrence between fwd and awd is the rod that passes thru the bushing. Its longer in the awd arm. The prothane kit compensates for this buy using a spacer for awd. Fwd just don't use the spacer.

 

[smills1840]

The above toe arm looks to be a fwd part. The diffrence between fwd and awd is the rod that passes thru the bushing. Its longer in the awd arm. The prothane kit compensates for this buy using a spacer for awd. Fwd just don't use the spacer.

Correct, that's what we were trying to confirm earlier in the thread. I've seen a few people use spacers, but I would rather get the OEM AWD part and not have to worry about it.

Nice build, btw.

 

[miliman13]

Correct, that's what we were trying to confirm earlier in the thread. I've seen a few people use spacers, but I would rather get the OEM AWD part and not have to worry about it.

Nice build, btw.

ok, so let me get this straight, "IF" the toe arm is for an AWD then i dont need a bushing ?

Also according to Amazon this kit fit's the AWD 2G

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Prothane-13-301-Upper-Control-Bushing/dp/B00386XC1M[/ame]


And i found a thread on a 3G site, that relates to this discussion.
http://www.club3g.com/forum/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/152844-rear-knuckle-bushing-3.html

 

[smills1840]

You could call JNZtuning to confirm, but the arm should come with the correct bushing if it's the AWD version. If so, you'll only need the arm and the new eccentric bolt kit, which you already have.

 

[NWHTanK]

ok, so let me get this straight, "IF" the toe arm is for an AWD then i dont need a bushing ?

Also according to Amazon this kit fit's the AWD 2G

Amazon.com: Prothane 13-301 Red Rear Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit: Automotive


And i found a thread on a 3G site, that relates to this discussion.
rear knuckle bushing - Page 3 - Club3G Forum : Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Forums

Yes and fwd. The spacers are on each side of that pick for a total of 2. U don't use those in a fwd car.

 

[miliman13]

You could call JNZtuning to confirm, but the arm should come with the correct bushing if it's the AWD version. If so, you'll only need the arm and the new eccentric bolt kit, which you already have.

i think im getting it now!

look at this pics, they show that the "bushing" is internal, and comes with the arm.

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And this one shows what it looks like with that "sleeve/bushing" removed from the arm.

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Update. the ones STM carry are in fact for the 2gAWD, I confirmed with them. As of today Im not sure they carry for the FWD.-

AS soon as i removed this rust welded arm, i will label this resolved.

 

[smills1840]

Glad you go it worked out. Report back when you get everything installed. It would probably help others in the future if you listed all the part numbers in the first post in bold or something

 

[miliman13]

so, i made some progress but unfortunately , i have reached a wall. I removed the arm, but that SOB bolt is still ruining my life, any ideas on how to murder it ??
Also, it took about an hour and 2x saws to remove the arm

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See below, the bolt is still there with the sleve still attached.

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And on this pic, i tried to cut the head of the bolt off, even is i was successful the washer/plate would still prevent the removal.

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[smills1840]

Have you tried soaking it in penetrating oil?

 

[yhype]

Should have cut it as close to the sub frame as possible then the bolt head would have just fallen out.

 

[miliman13]

Should have cut it as close to the sub frame as possible then the bolt head would have just fallen out.

Gee why didn't i think of that.
come on ??, how is that helping me, cutting any closer and i would of cut into my frame or does the picture above not make it clear enough so anyone actually have advice ?

Have you tried soaking it in penetrating oil?

yeah, no luck so far, I'm still thinking about drilling

 

[smills1840]

You could try some heat too

 

[miliman13]

I think, I will attempt to use a blow torch, it might be faster than a drill

 

[luv2rallye]

The bolt also rusts to the bushings metal sleeve (as well as the frame) which is why heating or drilling doesn't do it. I already went through this on mine and no amout of heat made any difference (I tryed Mapp-O2 torch - propane is not hot enough, but I ended up having to cut it). You'll have to cut it out (per http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3-replacing-seized-rear-toe-control-arms.html - note FWD parts are listed here - also read my post 2 there for extra info) and get another arm (for AWD: MR162573 for left, MR162574 for right, MB911315 for eccentric mounting bolt).

 

[Paul@RTM]

Brand new OEM toe control arms are available and they're not very expensive. Save you a lot of trouble. But if you absolutely want to retain your current ones, then some version of drilling out that bolt is your best option.