The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

HELP Compression Test Results BAD

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

boosted954g63

15+ Year Contributor
112
0
Aug 23, 2004
Overland Park, Kansas
Well my car was overheating really bad so i did a compression test and the results were bad. 1st Cyl-80 2nd, 3rd and 4th were all in the 130's. so i put a cap full of oil in it and it went up like 5. So what should i do? Is it time for a new head or rebuild the whole engine? Thanks Nick
 
I think that I am going to get my head rebuilt. Is FFWD Connection a good place to get it rebuilt? They have a good price compared to some of the other companies that rebuilds heads, but do they do good work? Any help is needed.
Thanks Nick
 
Cheap would be like a local machine shop. Jackson, FFDW and engintec (sorry if I left anyone out) are true dsm engine builders and they don't come cheap. Cheap and quality mostly don't go together...mostly. :)
 
Yea I'm Definitely taking or sending it to a shop that is specialized in DSM. I just want to know what is a good machine shop with a good price. I liked the place the you suggested Oldman, it seems like a fair price for what they do to it. But i want to see what other shops are out there and can get more power for the for the money.
Thanks Nick
 
boosted954g63 said:
Yea I'm Definitely taking or sending it to a shop that is specialized in DSM. I just want to know what is a good machine shop with a good price. I liked the place the you suggested Oldman, it seems like a fair price for what they do to it. But i want to see what other shops are out there and can get more power for the for the money.
Thanks Nick

You need not worry about getting more HP out of the head. You need a bigass turbo, fmic, fuel support, and tuning support first. Then throw some cams in the head.
 
Well i just figured that i was going to spend all that money on a head i might as well spend a little bit more and get some hp out of the deal? Right?
Thanks Nick
 
:laser: rst
I have the same problem as the man listeed above...I have low compression in all my cylinders though....I still have everything still on my car though..is there anyway I can do any of these tests to see if its my valves or my rings?
 
stanlis said:
:laser: rst
I have the same problem as the man listeed above...I have low compression in all my cylinders though....I still have everything still on my car though..is there anyway I can do any of these tests to see if its my valves or my rings?
Leakdown test
 
boosted954g63 said:
Well i just figured that i was going to spend all that money on a head i might as well spend a little bit more and get some hp out of the deal? Right?
Thanks Nick


Id spend my money on a set of cams before I did anything with porting and polishing the head. A buddy of mine with a stock bottom end & head & intake manifold is running 11.7's. It isn't going to do anything for you until you have a big ass turbo.
 
Well i think that i will just get the head rebuilt with no porting or anything because i don't have the funds for it right now. I might save up for new cams. What kind of cams do you recommend?
Thanks Nick
 
boosted954g63 said:
Well i think that i will just get the head rebuilt with no porting or anything because i don't have the funds for it right now. I might save up for new cams. What kind of cams do you recommend?
Thanks Nick


Mainly dependant on turbo choice. If your gonna go with a e316g or larger do the fp2's(HKS 272 equivelant). If your going to keep a smaller turbo fp1's(HKS 264 equivelant). If I were you, I would go with the fp2's/272's. Nothing less.
 
YEP! They will be a real good fit to the e316g. And even better when you go bigger then the 16g. And you will. I'd almost suggest skipping the 16G "step", and heading straight to a 50 trim. But the 16G is a fun turbo too :)
 
the link is broken in the vfaq.com on how to properly preform a leakdown test. Just to check on this one, is it easiest to pull the cams first and then pour the alcohol on the tops of the valves or do you just pull the fuel pump fuse and treat it as a compression test and just crank till the valves are closed? I woke up this morning to head to college only to hear a god awful noise from my car and a huge plume of white smoke coming out my tailpipe ;)
 
Jackson said:
the link is broken in the vfaq.com on how to properly preform a leakdown test. Just to check on this one, is it easiest to pull the cams first and then pour the alcohol on the tops of the valves or do you just pull the fuel pump fuse and treat it as a compression test and just crank till the valves are closed? I woke up this morning to head to college only to hear a god awful noise from my car and a huge plume of white smoke coming out my tailpipe ;)


you seem to be confused here, i'll try to clear it up :) The alcohol/water trick I suggested to the thread stater is really only practical if the head is not currently on your car.

im gonna give a very brief explanation here--

Here's what you should do first: compression test (because it's easy and cheap)
1. pull spark plugs
2. pull CAS (so that your engine will not activate the fuel/spark system)
3. screw compression tester in to spark plug hole
4. get in car, depress the gas to the floor, crank over 4-6 times
5. check gauge--then move on to the rest of the cylinders

next run a leakdown test if you are unable to pinpoint a problem with compression test
here's a good explainantion of how it works since vfaq is down--ive never made or used a leak down tester before.
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml

brief explanation:
leakdown tester -- you build the setup basically a T fitting, an air compressor is plugged into it, and a hose, and a pressure gauge, (the engine will need to be at TDC so all valves are closed) you screw the hose into the spark plug hole, pressureize the cylinder listen and watch to see how fast the air leaks out. By listening or moving certain engine parts you can pinpoint the area/problem.

Good luck :)
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top