HELP!!! car runs but shuts off when braking

[J-Rod7069]

First of all let me start by saying sorry if I posted this in the wrong section but Im new to the forums. I just recently started having a problem with my 6 bolt swapped 2g. As the title says, my 2g will run and drive fine but when start hitting the brakes to stop the engine's RPMs will drop all the way down to 0 and it justs turns off. Afterwards my car won't start anymore unless I pop the clutch. Any help would be apreciated and I thank all of you in advance.

 

[nuclearr]

You say the only way to start the car is to pop the clutch? The key won't work? If that is so sounds like your starter could be dragging.

 

[1SickAuto]

possibly a charging/battery problem as well.

 

[MetalliHawk]

Do the cluster lights all come on when you hit the brakes? If so sounds like bad battery or alternator. Check the terminals first.

 

[waterman412]

does your radio and lights turn off or stay on?

 

[J-Rod7069]

Do the cluster lights all come on when you hit the brakes? If so sounds like bad battery or alternator. Check the terminals first.

Yeah all the lights on the cluster do light up and I don't think it can be the battery because I just replaced it a couple of weeks ago.

 

[J-Rod7069]

does your radio and lights turn off or stay on?

My lights and radio stay on.

 

[slippedwrench]

It won't SPIN over or START? (unless you pop the clutch)

 

[Pirrofab]

I had a very similar problem on my 1g. car would shut off when the brakes were apllied but once released the car would fire back up being as it was in gear and still moving it would start itself back up. I found that it was a bad ground at my negative battery terminal. Tightened up the cable end and the car never id it again. (its been since july last year).

 

[RSdriver98]

Same thing happened to me. Come to find out that my timing belt was not timed properly and burned up my valves which was causing my car to shut off when coming to a stop. If not your timing belt have leak down tests and see if anything comes up. Also have a vacuum hose leak check.

 

[stevo911]

Could also be a huge leak in the break boost try to pop the hose off of it and plug it to see if same problem happens.

 

[Jimmyskrew face]

When you initially start the car, how does it idle? Is you bov vented or recirc.

 

[Pirrofab]

Could also be a huge leak in the break boost try to pop the hose off of it and plug it to see if same problem happens.

This is another possibility but my experiances with this failing boosters in gm cars/trucks are an extremely hard brake pedal. You would normally experiance a whistling noise coming from under the dash if this was the case.

J-Rod, can you give us any more info on this at all?

 

[Defiant]

Yeah all the lights on the cluster do light up and I don't think it can be the battery because I just replaced it a couple of weeks ago.

Tie it down so it can't move, and cover the positive terminal.

 

[J-Rod7069]

When you initially start the car, how does it idle? Is you bov vented or recirc.

Well it idles fine at first, then all of a sudden the idle starts surging.

 

[J-Rod7069]

I forgot to sat that my bov is recirculated.

 

[J-Rod7069]

Tie it down so it can't move, and cover the positive terminal.

The battery is tied down and the terminal is covered.

 

[J-Rod7069]

Could also be a huge leak in the break boost try to pop the hose off of it and plug it to see if same problem happens.

Where would this hose be located at?

 

[stevo911]

Driver side firewall youll see a big round thing take the vacuum line off of it and plug it with anything so no air can get threw and see if you still have same problem. Watch drivin like this your breaks will be really hard and lock easily but if it doesnt stall then you know you need a break booster. If ya need a picture let me know.

 

[Pirrofab]

Driver side firewall youll see a big round thing take the vacuum line off of it and plug it with anything so no air can get threw and see if you still have same problem. Watch drivin like this your breaks will be really hard and lock easily but if it doesnt stall then you know you need a break booster. If ya need a picture let me know.

When I had the same problem on my car with the staling I wouldn't need to apply the brakes, just resting my foot on the pedal to turn on the brake lights was enough to cause this issue.

 

[stevo911]

same idea as soon as pedal moved booster starts takin vacuum you dont acually need to apply the break for a booster to be gone just leave the rod move a bit can open the leak

 

[Spyderman7]

Is the check engine light on?If so what codes.One of the functions of the idle controll motor is to keep the engine from stalling when you let off of the gas.Also when you disconnect the battery,you reset the ECU.when you first start up the motor it will run open loop for a minute or two.Then it starts getting readings from different sensors.If it gets a bad signal,your motor that was running great for a minute or two starts to run bad.A bad TPS does weird things to your motor that you would'nt think it could.A loose connector on your power transistor will do something simular.A positive wire from your battery or alternator or poorly installed sound system could cause the motor to die and not restart.But usually it will fry your ECU.Vacuum leaks don't usually come and go.I don't know what you got,just throwing you some ideas

 

[stevo911]

That's why I believe its going to be something in the brake booster. The rod seals leaking. Usually you can hear a hiss above the brake pedal when this leaks but sometimes no sound is noticeable. Other thing would be the alternator going out. Connect a multimeter to the Pos and Neg battery terminals and make sure its reading about 14.4 if it is not. Connect the positive wire coming from the terminal to the positive multimeter and ground the negative on the multimeter to the body or frame and see what kind of voltage the alternator is sending. If the alternator is sending 14 and battery only has 12 or so then battery is bad if they are both low then alternator is bad. In order to completely rule out the break booster you'll have to take the vacuum line off of it then plug the line so no air gets thru.

 

[Defiant]

Never disconnect the battery cable from a running car on anything built since '85.

 

[stevo911]

Don't believe I said to disconnect it? Just connect it to the multimeter?