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Head Stuck...Need Some Help.

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What's not to understand? You are trying to put 12mm studs in an 11mm hole. OF COURSE it's going to get stuck.

To answer your question, for the third time, YOU CAN use 6 bolt (12mm) ARP studs with a 7 bolt head (regardless of 1g or 2g, it's still 11mm), you just need to get the bolt holes bored out to 12mm. Trust me on this, I'm doing the same exact thing as we speak.

Ok, your obviously not understanding what I'm trying to say. I understand what your saying. I know I can bore the holes out. Ill try and explain this one more time. I took the head off the car, it was already on the car using the stock head bolts. So it was 7 bolt head already on a 6 bolt block, got me? So, if the stock head bolts on a 6 bolt are 12mm, then the holes in the head must already be bored out because it was previously on the car. Thats why I keep saying if I took the 12mm bolts out of the head to get it off, I shouldnt have a problem putting the head over the 12mm studs. Understand?
 
It sounds warped to me . That seems to be the only logical explanation .
 
Remove the intake . Then try to get head off . It may just be that off balance weight wise . I did mine alone and it is a bi*** to do . That does add quite a bit of weight to the back of head . Crazy idea , have you tried to pry it loose ? I would try a 2x4 between the block and head . Use only the wood , it should not damage anything as long as you are careful .
 
Remove the intake . Then try to get head off . It may just be that off balance weight wise . I did mine alone and it is a bi*** to do . That does add quite a bit of weight to the back of head . Crazy idea , have you tried to pry it loose ? I would try a 2x4 between the block and head . Use only the wood , it should not damage anything as long as you are careful .

I did remove the Intake, it didn't help at all. No I didn't try to pry it loose because I don't want to take the chance of bending a valve. I have a lot more ideas now on how to get it off so we'll see what works. Thanks.
 
How well do you trust the machine shop? Perhaps they did a switch on you?
 
Put an axe handle under it, the fiberglass type would be best. You wont bend a valve if you pull the cams.
 
I had a head get stuck on me way back and I just used a cherry picker (engine hoist) to try and lift it off the engine while wiggling it back and forth gently. Worked like a charm. It's pretty easy to get a head jammed up on the studs if it isn't lowered just right.
Good luck!
 
The fact that you can screw 11mm bolts/studs into a 12mm hole is irrelevant in this situation. I took the head off myself, I know the stock bolts were torqued down way more than 40lbs and they screw into the block perfect, as do the arp studs.
I'm sorry. From the direction that the conversation was going, I just felt that this would be relevant information


I'm still looking for the answer of whether you can use a 1g 7bolt head on a 6bolt block with arp head studs. I guess I'll find out once I have the time to be gentle with it and get it off. Thanks

I'm sorry again, I thought in my response I answered this. Maybe not clearly enough. The answer is :





Yes.



MB
 
I'm sorry. From the direction that the conversation was going, I just felt that this would be relevant information




I'm sorry again, I thought in my response I answered this. Maybe not clearly enough. The answer is :





Yes.



MB

Sorry man, I didn't mean to jump down your throat, don't take it that way. Thanks for your help. I know you can use a 7bolt head on a 6 bolt block, so I'm just assuming the head that was on there already had the holes bored out to 12mm. I guess its just stuck in an awkward position. I'll keep everyone posted once I get a chance to work on it again. Thank you everyone for your help.
 
I check the bolt hole in a 1G head and they ar 13mm ,and a ARP stud is 12mm on the shank part as it the threads . If you have to drill out the holes I would go to 13mm as if you only went to 12mm they would be no clearance around the bolt that lets oil up top or very little (the one on the lower left standing in front of the car ) .Most likely 12mm is the size they are now .
A 12mm ARP will go threw all of them seperatly but would most likely do what has happend to you when you have all of them in.

I also check a 2g head and the holes where 12mm but cant remeber if I reamed them out or not as I used it on my 1G but was using stock bolts,couldn't find the stock 1G bolts to messure but I'am sure the had reduced shanks on them like the 2G I have and would must likely work an a unmodified head .But I do remeber enlarging the oil passage hole one a little
for extra clearance when I had it on my car .
 
Here is a pic of the passsage I'am talking about ,You can see it intersect the hole for the head bolt/stud about 3/4 inch down the hole .This is why there is a oval hole in the head gasket so the oil from the hole in the block can get to the passage and goes past the bolt ,this gasket has a copper boss in it at that location .This is the only way oil gets to the top of the head all other holes are water or oil drain back .
 

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How well do you trust the machine shop? Perhaps they did a switch on you?

I had a machine shop do the switch-aroo with a set of DART heads for a 350, caused allot of problems.

Maybe some how one of the studs got bent but you didnt notice,"maybe", causing it to bind.
Your best bet would probly be the engine lift since it can be awkward leaning over and lifting, and just think, in the future you'll have it if you ever need it.
-Chad
 
ive had the same problem, youve got two option. like the one mention above use a cherry picker with chains evenly placed on the bolts that hold down the cam caps. Or take your allen wrench cut the end of it, so you have about a 1" straight part and put that in a socked that fits it and unbolt the studs that way.

hope you understand what i said

have fun:tease: jk
 
Here is a pic of the passsage I'am talking about ,You can see it intersect the hole for the head bolt/stud about 3/4 inch down the hole .This is why there is a oval hole in the head gasket so the oil from the hole in the block can get to the passage and goes past the bolt ,this gasket has a copper boss in it at that location .This is the only way oil gets to the top of the head all other holes are water or oil drain back .

Thanks for the info, I'll take a closer look at it when I actually get the motivation to work on the damn thing.
 
I had a machine shop do the switch-aroo with a set of DART heads for a 350, caused allot of problems.

Maybe some how one of the studs got bent but you didnt notice,"maybe", causing it to bind.
Your best bet would probly be the engine lift since it can be awkward leaning over and lifting, and just think, in the future you'll have it if you ever need it.
-Chad

Yeah I need to get a lift to drop my 6bolt into my 2g anyways, I just need to take the time to go buy one. Ive been real busy during the holidays plus im starting a new job.
 
I think what I'm going to do is this:
Get the head off, thats my main goal. Then I'm going to remove each head stud and make sure they fit through the holes in the head. If they do, I'm going to put the head on th block and install the studs through the head and into the block one at a time. Think that will work?
 
Man i can't belive you have not got the head off yet. Get in there with a buddy and thrust upward hard to break it loose. Then once you get it loose gentily remove it as to not get bound up. Try harder it went on it will come off
 
I think what I'm going to do is this:
Get the head off, thats my main goal. Then I'm going to remove each head stud and make sure they fit through the holes in the head. If they do, I'm going to put the head on th block and install the studs through the head and into the block one at a time. Think that will work?

That would be a good idea! :thumb:
 
Did you get your head unstuck yet? LOL
 

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I was so frustrated/aggravated/annoyed with this problem that it took me till today to actually try again. It was a 3 man job, but we got the head off. I removed all the head studs and I took one and started fitting it through all the holes in the head. The weirdest damn thing ever happened. The stud fits perfectly through some holes, others it fits loose in and you can actually wiggle it around, and 2 holes it does not fit in. It will go in past the threads and then gets really stuck. So I found the culprit! Now I just don't know what to do about making it fit. I don't know if I should try drilling the holes myself? Take it to a machine shop? Reuse the stock bolts instead? Buy new stock bolts? So many options...any suggestions?
 
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