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spic21

10+ Year Contributor
240
0
May 14, 2010
albany, Louisiana
i really hate asking this but ive been looking for a while with no results so please be kind. im gonna be installing my punishment racing FMIC and 3" gm maf behind the BOV this week, so here the dumb question. i do face the honeycomb of the gm maf towards the front mount correct?
 
Isn't there an arrow on the side pointed the direction air should flow? I'll see if I can find a picture of what I'm talking about.

EDIT:
ex.
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As GSXSixteenG said, their is an arrow to indicate which way air is suppose to flow.

i thought there was but i looked yesterday when was starting to lay out parts and i didnt see it. maybe i over looked it. i prob just need to sit back and take a break. just ready to start

yea now that i see pic its on the plastic im sure i over looked it. sorry
 
how about you forget the MAf and go with a Jackal setup...

is that SD. if so i do want to but just dont know if im ready for that. im not a tuner by any means. im actually gonna have my car remotely tuned by someone on here. i asked about SD and he said it was unnecessary at this point and harder to tune. thats why i decide to go with maf behind bov
 
is that SD. if so i do want to but just dont know if im ready for that. im not a tuner by any means. im actually gonna have my car remotely tuned by someone on here. i asked about SD and he said it was unnecessary at this point and harder to tune. thats why i decide to go with maf behind bov

Whoever told you SD was hard to tune is ignorant. Your car will idle better, better throttle response, and gives you a lot more capabilites. I hadn't tuned a thing in my life and was terrified of learning but it's extrememly user friendly with lots of support and if you are buying a GM MAF and Translator, it's not that much more expensive. I actually had the GM maf and translator setup like everyone seems to do and before I put it on I heard about jackal and spent some time researching and sold my MAF setup and went with jackal and haven't looked back. Much better setup in my humble opinion.
 
I agree. I used a gm maf for a while...switched to speed density and am actually just using the old school vpc to tune with for now but I love it. My car idles smoother and feels smoother through the whole rpm band, particularly around 4500 - 6200 or so.
 
Whoever told you SD was hard to tune is ignorant. Your car will idle better, better throttle response, and gives you a lot more capabilites. I hadn't tuned a thing in my life and was terrified of learning but it's extrememly user friendly with lots of support and if you are buying a GM MAF and Translator, it's not that much more expensive. I actually had the GM maf and translator setup like everyone seems to do and before I put it on I heard about jackal and spent some time researching and sold my MAF setup and went with jackal and haven't looked back. Much better setup in my humble opinion.

I agree. I used a gm maf for a while...switched to speed density and am actually just using the old school vpc to tune with for now but I love it. My car idles smoother and feels smoother through the whole rpm band, particularly around 4500 - 6200 or so.

i already have a gm maf and translator. i have translator for sale on ebay and i bought plug for the gm maf from ecmlink. are yall running SD with v3? if so did u get it from ecmlink or did you buy a different set up. and i guess he just said it would be harder to set a good clean tune and that i really didnt need it.
 
I am running it with Jackal, not ECMlink. Jackal is free, ECMLink is like $600. Free>$600

Get on ds-map.net and do some research.

^ This...

Although the UI is not as "Pretty" It will get the job done You should look into it...There is a few parts you'll need to tune that aren't free. IHMO the Overall Cost savings is more then worth it

Either way SD is the only way to go...
 
^ This...

Although the UI is not as "Pretty" It will get the job done You should look into it...There is a few parts you'll need to tune that aren't free. IHMO the Overall Cost savings is more then worth it

Either way SD is the only way to go...

Correct. Assuming you already have an eprom ECU...parts will set you back about $300. That's still cheaper than v3 lite and 1/2 regualr v3. Not saying that ECMLink isn't good, just saying there are more cost effective ways to accomplish you goal. GM MAF+Translater=grabage.
 
I Total agree with you minus the garbage part...Also he's not running a Translator, although the first MAFT sucked most of the problems with running a Gm Maf arise from using a sensor in a way it wasn't designed.
But either way. SD > Any Maf
 
I Total agree with you minus the garbage part...Also he's not running a Translator, although the first MAFT sucked most of the problems with running a Gm Maf arise from using a sensor in a way it wasn't designed.
But either way. SD > Any Maf

OK, I take back the "garbage" comment, but yeah, SD is the ish.
 
ok i order SD bundle and SD cable for my ecmlink v3. so new questions for ya'll. i understand that the IAT sensor goes before the TB so ill put it in elbow before TB. but where does the 4 bar map sensor go. most ive found is that it needs to be close to intake. Looking at the sensor online it looks like there just a vacuum line to hook to MAP (if so from where should this vacuum line come from) anyone have any pics?
 
The vacuum line should be directly from the intake manifold, and as short as possible. Nothing else should be tee'd off of it either.

ok sound easy enough. im not able to look at intake right now because car is at house and i wont have net there so before i get back is there one that people use more than others? and what is it hooked to now?
 
ok i order SD bundle and SD cable for my ecmlink v3. so new questions for ya'll. i understand that the IAT sensor goes before the TB so ill put it in elbow before TB. but where does the 4 bar map sensor go. most ive found is that it needs to be close to intake. Looking at the sensor online it looks like there just a vacuum line to hook to MAP (if so from where should this vacuum line come from) anyone have any pics?

I'd recommend putting your IAT a bit farther away from your TB elbow to avoid it being heat soaked after parking or prolonged Idling (I.e. stop an go trafic)...

Also I hope you didn't buy this cable SD CABLE since if you have this one GM MAF cable at that cable provides break-out connections for both the IAT and baro inputs to the ECU :thumb: Also Ideally you should run the smallest MAP that your boost level allows. the smaller the sensor the better the resolution

2 BAR = 14.5 psi max
3 BAR = 29
4 BAR = 43.5
5 BAR = 58
 
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I'd recomend putting your IAT a bit farther away from you TB elbow to avoid it being heat soaked after parking or prolonged Idling (I.e. stop an go trafic)...

Also I hope you didn't buy this cable SD CABLE since if you have this one GM MAF cable at that cable provides break-out connections for both the IAT and baro inputs to the ECU :thumb: Also Ideally you should run the smallest MAP that your boost level allows. the smaller the sensor the better the resolution

2 BAR = 14.5 psi max
3 BAR = 29
4 BAR = 43.5
5 BAR = 58

i did order the sd cable but i sent back the gm maf cable for refund. the 4 bar sensor was the one that came with sd bundle. will it not work good for my set up. i do plan on a turbo upgrade but it will be a long while before i do that. for now all i have is a small 16g.

should i contact ecmlink and get the gm maf cable sent back and cancel the sd cable. can i put the gm maf in and all the SD kit and just swap them back and forth as i see fit. or will this cause problems?

how far away do you recommend the IAT sensor be away from TB?
 
You can use any MAP sensor you'd like. I'm currently using the 5 bar with a small 16g. It is better to have one that more closely matches with your desired boost (i.e. I don't plan on running more than 25psi so I'd get a 3 bar). But it's not like a larger one won't work.

If you plan on sticking with the GM MAS, then I'd get the GM cable. If you want to hard switch over to SD, just get the SD cable. Yes, you could technically have both available to use at any one time using the GM cable, but once you go SD you won't want to go back.

I have my IAT in the throttle body elbow, which I'd say is ~6-8" (if that) away from the throttle body.
 
I'd recomend putting your IAT a bit farther away from you TB elbow to avoid it being heat soaked after parking or prolonged Idling (I.e. stop an go trafic)...

Not sure how ECMLink works with SD but on Jackal heat soaking isn't an issue once your adjust you enrichments...
 
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I would be led to believe whether it's a problem or not(IE because there's a way to adjust for it) you would be getting a more accurate temp. Reading of the Air. with it placed farther away because of heat Conduction from the IM manifold and other sources. Air is much less dense and is not going to be affected from everything else as much as the sensor screwed into a metal bung. Just seams simpler to avoid having to make one more adjustment.
 
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