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Harmonic Balancer removal/installation guide?

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KeithL322

15+ Year Contributor
42
0
Oct 6, 2005
Clarksville, Indiana
Anyone know if there is a post on how to remove and install a new harmonic balancer?... ive searched the forums and not been able to find one. I'd assume I could do it easily if I could get to it... is there an access panel behind the driver side wheel well, or do I have to remove that motor mount, etc, etc? thank you for ALL input! much appreciated ;) and sorry for the newbie question, although I guess thats why I'm posting in the newbie forum... LOL
 
Harmonic Balancer AKA...Crank pulley...loosen the excessory belts..I think its a 12MM bolt X 4...remove..put the new one on and go...Why are you doing this?? J/W


Haynes Manual by chance...or Chiltons which ever..Those are the DSM bible b/c things will break
 
things you will need
1. New Crank Pulley
2. 3/8 drive 12mm socket
3. 3/8 drive 6-12" extension
4. 3/8 drive ratchet
5. 1.5" drive breaker bar or ratchet


1. Jack up car and remove driver side tire
2. remove splash guard
3. loosen alternator belt and AC belt if equipped
4. use 1/2 drive breaker bar to hold the center nut
5. use 12mm socket to remove the four bolts on the crank pulley.
6. install new crank pulley with bolts torqued to specs
7. reverse order of removal.
8. re-check torque specs for the pulley

estimated time.
1-2 hours depending on tools available and skill level
 
doesn't matter if you loosen the nuts before or after taking off the accesory belts. you can still crack it loose with the accesory belts on. the only time this applies is when you are trying to loosen the water pump pulley bolts but that is a different topic
 
Be careful to not turn the crank backward during the procedure, or while trying to break loose those easy "22 ft lb" bolts that've been rusting into place for the last decade. Turning the crank backward can cause the timing belt to skip a tooth or more.
 
Be careful to not turn the crank backward during the procedure, or while trying to break loose those easy "22 ft lb" bolts that've been rusting into place for the last decade. Turning the crank backward can cause the timing belt to skip a tooth or more.

Word, had that happen to me, luckily it was only one tooth and I got away scott free...this time.
 
yeah... I guess I don't really think about the rust much being spoiled here on the west coast... I just used the palm heel strike method on the end of the ratchet.. no problems... and you can tighten them to 22ft lb while you hold the pulley with your hand..
 
awesome, that was the main part i was wondering, was if there was access from behind the driver side panel, thanks for all the other info too though, will hlept a ton. Especially the part with the timing belt, thanks a lot! Ill be very careful to not turn that thing backwards any!:thumb: thanks a ton everyone!
 
I turned my crank pulley about 1/4 turn counter clockwise while trying to break those 12mm bolts loose. So once I get the pulley replaced, will I have to re time my engine? I've heard people say either way, I just don't want to break my car.
 
If you really want to lock the pulley down next time, get a chain wrench, wrap the chain around the pulley, strap it down good and tight, then you can pop those 12mm bolts loose as you hang onto the chain wrench.

That'll keep the pulley from turning on yas when you loosen them.

AND ...

If you got that old pulley out, go ahead and separate it and keep the inside part.

For the inside is a good holder to bolt back on the sprocket so you can wrap that chain wrench around it when you to have to lock the crankshaft up. Then while grabbing onto the wrench, you can hand torque that center bolt back down to 85-100 ft lbs with your torque wrench after doing a belt.

Lotsa tugging the two wrenches forward, but it works.

DSM
 
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