1G Hard Cold Start! Frustrated!

[uberstrafe]

So I have tried everything, I have switched out the temp sensor, done a boot leak test and fixed the boost leak I did have, swapped out a dead clutch slave, going to rebuild the master clutch cylinder, checked the isc, checked the tps, and I think thats about it. I just cant get this car to idle well and can not get it to start easily when the motor is cold.

Every time I try to get the car to start I have to pump the gas to get it to start firing and then it will continuously die until the motor is nice and warm. Also after driving the car a bit hard the idle goes up to about 1500 and stays there for awhile. The car idle dips below 700 and almost stalls sometimes when I push in the clutch coming up to a intersection. Also I think the master clutch cylinder is making a screeching noise when pushing in the clutch, it only makes this noise when the car is running, the slave was pretty loud until i replaced it with a rebuilt unit.

I just need some new ideas about where to look, I try not to post unless I get completely frustrated and almost ready to take the car into a shop so let me know if you have any ideas on how to fix this!

 

[EagleTSIawd]

I am in the same boat you are, I did find a little trick on mine that works most of the time. I set the ignition on run and leave it there for a few seconds after the engine light turns off, it fires up on the first try but I still have to give it a little gas or it will just want to turn off. I've learned to deal with it at times but I too would be interested on a solution to this problem.

 

[uberstrafe]

Also EGR and FPS are removed and the car is throwing a CEL but I am guessing that is from the EGR being removed. Thanks for the idea Eagle I just want my car to idle and start like it use to!!! It would be nice to know I can trust it when I leave it up at the mountains when I go boarding.

 

[eagle_talon90]

Well the fuel pressure solenoid is there to provide a little extra fuel at start-up on cold starts, so if you have removed that then the engine will take longer to turn over when cold starting it, and it could cause your car to not want to idle right until its fully warmed up.

 

[dylnwit]

What kind of oil are you running? I've found that running 5w30 in the winter helps in my '90, but according to my manuals, shouldn't be used when it's over 50F out. And have you tried cleaning your injectors and/or replacing your fuel filter?

I believe that Eagle's method is basically a way to prime your fuel lines, which means that your fuel is somehow leaving the lines when you shut off your car.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I believe that Eagle's method is basically a way to prime your fuel lines, which means that your fuel is somehow leaving the lines when you shut off your car.

No that isn't quite right. The pump doesn't come on unless you actually crank the engine. Turning on the ignition won't run the pump until the switch hits the crank/start position.

I too had a similar problem in cold weather (basically no starts or hard starts on a cold car). I figured turning the key on somehow warmed up the ECU. All I knew for sure was that it worked. When I finally found a replacement ECU in a junkyard, my problem was solved.

 

[uberstrafe]

well I have a 255 walbro that I still need to rewire which I was gonna do to see if that helped, I wonder if there is a way to get the fuel pump to come on when I switch the ign to on, Ill try the warming up the ecu thing that Colt4g63 suggested and see if that helps. I am running 10w30 royal purple with synthetic lucas oil stabilizer and have never had a problem with that before I swapped everything over to this new shell. I could try the 5w30 I just know colorado has weird weather and I would probably do it on like a week it hits 70 everyday in the dead of winter. Also I thought that the fps was just for hot starts and that it didn't effect anything else, I have a 255 on a aeromotive so I figured it wouldn't much matter.

My car was running awesome last night, thought I might of fixed it with that new slave cylinder but there was frost on the car this morning and she was deader than ever. Pretty sure my girlfriends neighbors hate me by now having to crank on the thing over and over for like 10 mins and then letting it rev for another 2 or 3 mins. I will come out some morning and the car will start fine but all four tire will be slashed... I can already see that coming.

 

[No_Skillz]

Difficulty starting a cold motor is also symptomatic of a bad o-ring at the fuel pump. Sometimes if not installed correctly or old/worn, all fuel drains back into the tank if the car sits for a while. It will take a few extra cranks to start the car up if this happens.

 

[uberstrafe]

Difficulty starting a cold motor is also symptomatic of a bad o-ring at the fuel pump. Sometimes if not installed correctly or old/worn, all fuel drains back into the tank if the car sits for a while. It will take a few extra cranks to start the car up if this happens.

well this isn't just a few cranks, this is 10 minutes of cranking and pumping the gas, I will just replace the o-ring when I rewire the pump just to make sure and it is possible it might be bad i just moved it from the old shell to the new one without replacing any of the gaskets or filter. The motor ran perfectly in the old shell, I had all these problems when I swapped it over to the new shell. Also after one crank the fuel pressure is all the way back up according to the gauge I have on my aeromotive.

 

[uberstrafe]

I have an update!

Seems now that I changed out the slave cylinder that the clutch is disengaging better, but now the idle that use to only go up to 1500 is going to 2000 with the clutch pushed and the car sitting still but will fall to the 1500 after about 10 seconds. Also now there is a noticeable surge when the car is coasting with the clutch pushed in.

Could this possibly be my fiav?

 

[eder-loco]

The reason Mine is doing this Except the idle up and down.
Is because I went from recirculating the Bov To NOT recirculating due to my FP intake not having the nipple to recirculate Since i am running a stock 2g MAF. I have to play with the gas for about 20 seconds , Then it will hold on to idle by it self with no problems.
But did hesitate to start after i got a used ISC sensor too, but defently after me not recirculating.

 

[uberstrafe]

my bov is recirculated so thats not the problem, Is it possible I still have a boost leak somewhere? I hold 18psi so I dont think I have a leak anywhere, couldn't see any bubbles after I found the first two. The only reason I think it might be that or the master clutch cylinder is because I have to pump the gas to get it turned over.

 

[uberstrafe]

Well I replaced the master cylinder and it didnt seem to fix the hard starting, I still need to bleed the system a bit more but I dont think thats gonna be the solution. I am kinda at a loss of what to do, If anyone has any idea of what else I could do give me some ideas. I have a spare ecu I am gonna hookup to see if it has anything to do with that.

 

[stevek]

I have the same problem. The more I let the car sit, the longer it takes to start. I have a feeling it is the O-ring at the fuel pump causing this to happen. I am also going to try a new fuel filter as well. Also, the clutch system wont cause hard starting unless the pedal isn't against the sensor, then it wont start.

 

[turbotalon91tsi]

It could be a vacuum leak or a bad ISC and it does seem possible your FIAV could be malfunctioning.

 

[tsi1991awd]

I have this same exact problem. But if I use the fuel pump check right by the battery, leave that for about 20 seconds and then go to start the car, it starts up just fine. So it's something with fuel delivery for me, sounds like that's the deal for you too, I don't know?

 

[Wicked95AWD]

I have the same problem as the rest of you. I'm using DSMlink and if I check the fuel pump checkbox under the "misc" tab the fuel pump will kick on by simply turning the key to the run position. Even if I turn the key to run and allow the fuel pump to run for a minute or two I still get the same symptoms as the rest of you, which makes me think (mine at least) is not related to the fuel pump o-ring.

 

[uberstrafe]

Well I think I found the problem... not the way I wanted to find it but I think I can call this one solved. I pulled up to a light today and all of the sudden the car stalled and had no clutch pedal pressure. After a few people stopped and help me push to the side of the road I found half of a clutch fork laying on the ground . This would explain the hard starts since the clutch wouldn't disengage all the way, maybe even the funny idle. I am gonna buy a new fork, fulcrum ball, TOB, and clip for the TOB. I think I will just leave the clutch alone it only has like 5000 miles on it. I am sure the new rebuilt clutch slave and master did not help seeing that the fork was probably already bent. Just thought I would fill you guys in!

 

[No_Skillz]

I think broken fork is more of a coincidence and not your real issue. I have my clutch switch disabled and start the car without engaging the clutch. There is no effect such as hard crank or surging issue.

 

[uberstrafe]

You may be right but I think it could be a contributing factor, when I dropped in the motor into this shell I could not get it to turn over until i bled the clutch. Even after the clutch was bled all the way the car turned over hard. So if the fork was bent then maybe the input shaft wasn't completely disengaged making the car harder to start. Just a theory, I will found out after I replace everything.

 

[e85_4g63]

Any news?

 

[uberstrafe]

not yet, I just ordered the parts!

 

[concreteTSI]

Looks like im getting in late on this one, but as all of you guys, i have the same damn problem, and its driving me crazy. When i bought this car the guy told me it had a cold start problem, but couldnt mess with it ### it also had a motor problem. So i swaped that engine out for my spare, as well as my ecu i had, and all of my old sensors that i had on my other car(which started the first time everytime) and well, my neighbors hate me too. It takes about 6 ot 7 key turns before it will sit on its own. But even then you have to keep it alive for a minute or 2. Soon as she gets warm, starts like a charm. I have plenty of Fuel pressure as soon as she cranks, i would love to try the pump seal , as well as put my pump in it, but the damn lines are so rusted in the rear that they wont budge! So im lost, and mad. Dont know what the hell to do!

 

[uberstrafe]

Does the car shift as well as it use to before you swapped in the current drivetrain? If it doesn't then check the master and slave for the clutch, Double check all the vac lines and do boost leak tests. Let us know how your puzzle of a car is working!

 

[uberstrafe]

Hey ConcreteTSI do you also have that greddy bov recirculated?