safarijeepjim
Probationary Member
- 28
- 0
- Oct 25, 2012
-
wenatchee,
Washington
ive been doing alot of searching already..but i thought id give u guys a description of whats done to my car. im new to this so bear with me. let me know if my set up is good or if it needs changes. all opinions and advice will be greatly appreciated! so heres my description of whats been done then ill tell you my starting issues. 99 gst 145,xxx miles, motor was rebuilt at 100,xxx miles, 3 layer headgasket and ARP head studs, 1000cc PTE injectors, FP exhaust manifold, evo3 16g turbo, 3" megan turbo back exhaust, kn filter, walbro 190 fuel pump, greddy rs bov, ETS front mount intercooler, abs delete, CC delete, stainless brake lines, shep fully rebuilt transmission with wavetrac LSD. megan coilovers, sway bars, ect. @ 130,xxx miles i put new balance shaft pully and belt, feul filter, timing belt, water pump, alternator, ngk plugs, rebuilt throttle body with all new seals and gaskets. i also have eprom ecu installed and esm link.
SO... heres my issues... main one is starting. when its cold it takes about 3 trys to get it to hold idle..otherwise it just dies out. once its running and warm the idle (which normally sits at 1k will ocassionally jump a few hundred rmp and go back to 1k. ive been researching and my best bet at this point is the air idle control valve..i have no check engine lights coming on. also when the car s warm it starts right up. second issue..using the dsm link i changed the stock boost gauge to be the battery gauge. while driving at night the lights will dim for a second like its having a heavy draw on the alternator (and it shows on the gauge) then back to normal..not sure if this is a normal thing or if i should be looking for a short or bad ground anywhere??
SO... heres my issues... main one is starting. when its cold it takes about 3 trys to get it to hold idle..otherwise it just dies out. once its running and warm the idle (which normally sits at 1k will ocassionally jump a few hundred rmp and go back to 1k. ive been researching and my best bet at this point is the air idle control valve..i have no check engine lights coming on. also when the car s warm it starts right up. second issue..using the dsm link i changed the stock boost gauge to be the battery gauge. while driving at night the lights will dim for a second like its having a heavy draw on the alternator (and it shows on the gauge) then back to normal..not sure if this is a normal thing or if i should be looking for a short or bad ground anywhere??