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GVR4- 11.4 @ 121 on 93 pumpgas

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Nate Crisman

10+ Year Contributor
749
6
Nov 26, 2008
Blairstown, New_Jersey
Went over to Island today for sunday T&T. Got there at about 12:30, sat in tech line till 1:15, then in line till after 2:20 for my first run. The place was PACKED with cars.

Run 1:
1.640 60'
4.939 330'
7.609 @ 93.97 1/8
9.870 1000'
11.800 @ 117.14 1/4

~23psi steady boost, no knock, mid 11's a/f, 13 to 15* timing.
Launch rpm was 6200, but I didn't get on the 2step until the last light so I left with pretty much no boost/free rev. it still came out smooth and fairly quick.

YouTube - GVR4 #139 11.8@117

My wife & kids left after the first run, my boys are only 4 and 2 years old, the big loud racecars were a little too much for them. Island also seems to have a nasty yellow jacket bee problem in the stands. So I only have video of my first run. They waited over 2 hours to see me make one pass, which musta sucked.

Second run:
1.656 60'
4.837 330'
7.418 @ 96.82 1/8
9.626 1000'
11.509 @ 120.21

Boost hit 28psi and start a steady decline to 24psi by 7500rpm.
raised timing 1*, but saw some knock (less than 8counts) in 3rd and 4th.
NLTS all gear shifts, but I let out in first gear right after the launch. I let the clutch slip just a bit too much and it kept slipping after the pedal came up, so I blipped the throttle in first to let it grab.

Third run:
1.621 60'
4.776 330'
7.344 @ 97.40
9.541 1000'
11.410 @ 120.96

same tune/boost setting, still dropping from 28 to 24psi. I did the same damn thing in first gear again...letting clutch out too slow, it doesn't feel like it grabs 100% and I lift throttle out of instinct for just a bit. Either way, a decent pass I think.

Saw knock counts of 13-14 in 4th gear, which pulled the timing down to 9*.
air temps were about 93* on the line and hit 121*F in 4th gear:noes:
A/F was still mid to high 11's, but I think I should try a little richer and less timing in the map so it stays off knock all together (or a little squirt of meth).

So I'm pretty happy with an 11.4 @ 121 on pumpgas, park the car and load up my tools, reinstall the headlight. Go to leave and the car wont start. after some investigating: no fuel pressure on gauge.

Check the pump, I have power at the plug. Pull out the sending unit and jumper the pump to the battery: it only turns on after getting whacked with a ratchet and was intermittent.

So supra pump died and left me stranded in the pits waiting for a tow truck. :eek3jerkit:

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(Mark's post about friday night just got me too itchy to wait till next weekend!)
 
Nice runs! Care to share details of the engine setup? I know your vid said you were running a 50trim. Is this a bolt-on or t3 setup?
 
Nice runs! Care to share details of the engine setup? I know your vid said you were running a 50trim. Is this a bolt-on or t3 setup?

It's a PTE SC5031. The standard 50 trim with the T31 turbine wheel. .63AR T3 turbine housing hung on a cheapo XS-Power T3 manifold. (it was on a parts car, might as well use it since it's near worthless to sell)

cut/paste mod list

Modifications:
Engine:
Stock 6bolt oem shortblock..from a low mileage dsm.
Ported 1g head w/ Ferrea springs & Ti retainers
HKS cams: 272 Exh / 264 In
90 DSM oil cooler & filter housing
Stock HG & ARP headstuds.
Balance shafts removed.
90 water pipe
Jay Racing alternator relocation
Unorthodox aluminum crank pulley
JNZ Finishing powdercoated valve cover
Prothane engine mounts


Exhaust:

T3 tube header - XS Power
Tial MVS 38mm Vband external gate
PTE T3 .63 a/r turbine housing (ford style 5 bolt outlet with no wastegate hole)
JMFab 2.5" T3 stainless o2 housing
3" downpipe, testpipe, catback


Intake:

3" intake pipe with K&N filter
Precision SC5031 turbocharger (50trim/3"inlet/2"outlet)(T31 turbine wheel/.63 ar T3 housing)
XS Power 24" x 12" x 4" FMIC core. (inlet endtank flipped & rewelded with 2.5" cast elbow)
2.5" polished aluminum custom ic pipes
knockoff tial bov
1G DSM NT throttle body
JMFabrications intake manifold (2006 race version)


Fuel:
750cc FIC Injectors
Denso supra fuel pump
Aeromotive FPR
-6 aeroquip pushlock fuel lines (using stock return line)
Russell -6 billet fuel filter


Electronics:
DSMap speed density software on Ostrich eprom emulator
GM 3 bar map sensor and GM Air Temp sensor.
Innovate LC-1 wideband o2 sensor w/ gauge.
AEM Tru-Boost gauge controller
Datalogger cable / Palm M130 / MMSD "speed density logger"
JMFab coil relocation bracket
Magnecore wires & NGK BPR7ES plugs


Drivetrain:
TRE Stage 2 tranny rebuild
ACT2600 PP
OEM DSM disk
Clutchmasters aluminum flywheel
SS clutch line
Welded center diff
4bolt DSM rear
5 lug DSM hubs


Suspension & Brakes:
D2 coilover suspension
ES poly bushing set
SS brake lines
Fresh stock brake pads
Slotted brake rotors
ABS, 4WS, front swaybar removed
 
Hey at least it wasn't a tranny! Very nice numbers on pump btw =)

I went to the track about 50/50 expecting to come home on the flatbed, but I never imagined it would be due to a fuel pump.:ohdamn:

Atleast it's an easy fix. The car has a -6 feed line already, and the sending unit is all hacked up from prev owner putting the supra pump in, so I'm thinking about my options for pumps:

another supra intank pump?
Are the external walbro 255's any better?
 
I went to the track about 50/50 expecting to come home on the flatbed, but I never imagined it would be due to a fuel pump.:ohdamn:

Atleast it's an easy fix. The car has a -6 feed line already, and the sending unit is all hacked up from prev owner putting the supra pump in, so I'm thinking about my options for pumps:

another supra intank pump?
Are the external walbro 255's any better?

Just use a 255hp intank and a 255hp inline. Works great.
 
Yeah go for the 255 in tank and 255 inline, thats a good setup.
I'd rather skate street tires all the way down than use slicks or drag radials, but thats just the drifter in me =)
 
Sick times, ever get the car dynoed?

I will eventually, but going by total weight/mph against some local guys around me, I would expect the car to put down about 410whp on the awd dynojet at turbotrix in it's current setup.

Im going to run it Oct 7th with racegas, a more aggressive tune, -100lb weight, a bit more boost, and a new 4" cold air intake. Will see what mph it can put up on racegas, and I hope to see a 10.xxx ET.
 
Yeah go for the 255 in tank and 255 inline, thats a good setup.
I'd rather skate street tires all the way down than use slicks or drag radials, but thats just the drifter in me =)

yeah, looks like Im going to stick a normal 255hp in there for a bit then decide over the fall what Im going to do for a permanant fuel setup. I'm supposed to be getting down to JMF to build an aluminum bolt in fuel cell, from which I may just run an external pump. But for now, Id like to just get it running again as cheap as possible.

As for tires, to each his own, but I can't stand going to the track with a car I know run XXX and only getting 70% of the performance it's capable of. I went 11.9 @ 119 in the car on 17" street tires with a sorry 1.88 60' the first time at the track with the car.:notgood: Those hoosiers will likely end up being the difference between an 11.7 or so that it would be capable of on street tires on a really clean run vs what I hope will end up being a 10.9 assuming a difference of high 1.7 short times on street tires vs low 1.5's on hoosiers. That's more performance than any other single mod you can possibly do to a DSM other than nitrous.
 
Good job Nate. Drop in the Walbro 255 in the tank. You don't need the in-tank & in-line pump setup right now. You're not running out of fuel, you just have a bad pump. You can shed some weight (~120#s) by switching to the jdm front & rear bumpers.
 
Nice runs and the car looks killer on the slicks! You and I would be a nice run...I'm 7.360at the 1/8th. Good luck, I'd assume you're shooting for the 10's!
 
I got a box yesterday with a 4" aluminum U bend, 4"dia K&N, and Tial springs to set the wastegate to 1.4bar/22psi. Going to make a 4" cold air intake with should help the ait. The springs should help keep the boost pressure steady at high rpm where it was previously dropping down.

Dropping off another 100lb: 48lb rear bumper support, 35lb pass seat, 10lb muffler, few misc little things.

Up the launch rpm 500-750rpm for some 1.5 action

116 octane + 29psi + 20* timing.

Hopefully 10.9 @ 125 next time out.
 
Nice..............good luck hittin 10's! I'm picking up a GVR4 soon, it's BONE stock from the original owner. Wonder if I'll ever take the 14b off it!:D

Let us know how it goes!
 
I'm going to need some of that good luck for sure! I'm fixing some dumb stuff while waiting for parts to arrive, so I pulled the Xcase and exhaust off to swap oil pans (first pan cracked and was leaking).

First I find my exhaust has a hanger tore out back by the muffler. It left a hole right in the last bend before the muffler, so there is no fixing it without welding. I love it when someone uses stainless pipe, stainless flanges, stainless muffler, and mild steel weld filler rod.

The big deal: Xcase is stuck on the driveshaft already. The yoke was brand new. Splines are twisted together with only 3 hoosier launches. hahaha Ill be suprised if it takes many more before the output shaft snaps.
 
You are same Nate, from DSMotorsports, correct??? Great job and nice comeback... I thought you gave up... Andy/ that used to call you many times/. Best service and prices...

Good luck.
 
That is the Nate of DSMotorsports that had the yellow 1G with graphics and Weld Drag Wheels! 11.44@118 on the 14b!
 
I'm going to need some of that good luck for sure! I'm fixing some dumb stuff while waiting for parts to arrive, so I pulled the Xcase and exhaust off to swap oil pans (first pan cracked and was leaking).

First I find my exhaust has a hanger tore out back by the muffler. It left a hole right in the last bend before the muffler, so there is no fixing it without welding. I love it when someone uses stainless pipe, stainless flanges, stainless muffler, and mild steel weld filler rod.

The big deal: Xcase is stuck on the driveshaft already. The yoke was brand new. Splines are twisted together with only 3 hoosier launches. hahaha Ill be suprised if it takes many more before the output shaft snaps.

Wow....sounds like a couple of PITA problems you have there. I hear you on the exhaust, what a joke. Sucks about the yoke, what the heck can you do to help hinder that? Drop weight would be my only guess......:hmm:

I'm sure you'll iron it out and hit 10's by seasons end!
 
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