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Gtx3076r 4g63t with Honda b18 intake manifold=good power

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the victor x has worse numbers then the skunk2 pro ,..Wow i thought you would have done lots of port work ..skunk2/junk2 and vic x have bad numbers on 1.6 and 1.8 L honda's ...Why try them on 2L with out lots of port work ?
 
Why buy honda mani's when they are hundreds of of 4g variants? Stock and aftermarket bolt on options are everywhere.

You could have just bought an evo 3 mani for $75 and been done with it if your looking for a budget mani.
 
So people here once again are gonna prove they are close minded, you better worry about the 91% of people buying ebay shit. Let him prove what this is capable from and go from there.
 
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So people here once again are gonna prove they are close minded, you better worry about the 91% of people buying ebay shit. Let him prove what this is capable from and go from there.

Close minded? Why not support one of our vendors and use a product designed and proven for our application?

Sorry but its just a little silly to adapt a manifold from another car when the options already available are endless. With every combo you could ever need, from stock, to mild street, to full blown race car. Magnus, jmfab, hell the evo 3 would have been exactly what he was looking for. It would have cost much less then modifying a mani from another car, and im sure would have provided better results. The manifold itself is cheaper and thats before all the work to adapting the flange and tb.

Plus those runners look puny, for a n/a 1.6 im sure they are. Plus the porting needed just to match flanges probably has ballooned the end of runners further reducing its efficiency. The length of the runners are also probably better suited for something revving 9k+. Thats all i was saying.
 
It is a 1g head.

I know we can get a manifold from the vendors on here and not have to deal with modifying anything. If you don't have the tool or skill to modify one, it might be best to call up the vendors and tell them to sell you one. We have the tools so it cost about $150 for this manifold. So far I like it. It just looks cooler and it gets the job done base on the Dyno result.

I have not seen an Evo 3 manifold carry to power to 8500rpm and trying to find one is pretty hard. We still have to modify a evo3 to work with a 1g head.

I don't believe the runners are too small for our application. This manifold flow enough for 600+hp on b18. I don't think it will choke out like we might think.

This was a crazy idea. We laugh at the modification the whole time. We had our doubts.

We will see when I test this manifold against a ported functional butterfly cyclone, eliminated butterfly cyclone, factory 1g, Jmf, and maybe even the Magnus V3 if the money is right. The goal is to have the highest average hp from 6000-8500rpm. We will keep the one that give us the highest average in the rpm range we want. Cost effectiveness and cool factor might be determining factors too. I would not mind having a Magnus v3 on my car. I don't know how the v3 will performs with my set up but it is so sexy. For me, sexy beats hp any day of the week.
 
Deja vu this reminds me of honda guys getting in a dsm forums not know shit about dsm but the other way around, hang in there, i prefer a true car enthusiast.

Using a manifold that designed to rev a max of 9k for 9k+ sound non smart.
Over the years I learned that instead of telling people what to do or support who you first have to do it yourself and prove it.
 
Close minded? Why not support one of our vendors and use a product designed and proven for our application?

Sorry but its just a little silly to adapt a manifold from another car when the options already available are endless. With every combo you could ever need, from stock, to mild street, to full blown race car. Magnus, jmfab, hell the evo 3 would have been exactly what he was looking for. It would have cost much less then modifying a mani from another car, and im sure would have provided better results. The manifold itself is cheaper and thats before all the work to adapting the flange and tb.

Plus those runners look puny, for a n/a 1.6 im sure they are. Plus the porting needed just to match flanges probably has ballooned the end of runners further reducing its efficiency. The length of the runners are also probably better suited for something revving 9k+. Thats all i was saying.

Can you please point us in the direction where we can find a cast manifold for $150 dollars? If this is a B18a skuck2, I have one laying in my garage that I got for free. And I just got my Miller Dynasty 200 I can weld this up no problem.
 
Can you please point us in the direction where we can find a cast manifold for $150 dollars? If this is a B18a skuck2, I have one laying in my garage that I got for free. And I just got my Miller Dynasty 200 I can weld this up no problem.

WTF The stock manifolds are all cast. 1g, 2g, evo 3, and cyclone can all be had for less then half of 150.

But originally i was just asking because i was curious to why he made that choice, that is all. Sure if you have one laying around and the ability to modify it.

I mean people have made over 500whp on the stock 1g intake manifold which is the worst of the bunch.
 
Can you please point us in the direction where we can find a cast manifold for $150 dollars? If this is a B18a skuck2, I have one laying in my garage that I got for free. And I just got my Miller Dynasty 200 I can weld this up no problem.

I bought my cyclone intake for 75$.
1 on ebay right now for 140$.
 
My friend got that manifold from eBay for 120 shipped. It is the fake skunk 2. He got it to experiment with so there is no sense buying the real one. He got the flange resurfaced for 20bux. It is about 10 bux or so for filler rods and welding gas.

It is all about the power band to us. Stock manifold make good low end but choke out after around 6500-7000rpm. That is why guys switch to the short runners intake manifolds. The short runner intake manifold shine more from 7000-10000+rpm. Guys reving to 7500rpm or 8500rpm can not optimize the potential of a manifold like v3, Jmf, Forrester, etc.. It is speculation now that the modify Honda manifold is our final choice. However from my experience with other manifolds, I am favoring longer runners honda one for the moment.

I bought this one to experiment but the guy sold me the smaller runner ls non vtec version. I gave 200 for this baby. It would pure sexiness to have an Edelbrock on my engine. I might still fine another one.
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Started out with this one.
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I went to this one because it spool quicker.
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Higher power is JMF. Forrester is lower.
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I ended up with this one.
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Why did you end up usOMG the cyclone one?? Also is it fully functional?? I ask you becauae i have one as of it now and i want to take it off for one that can benefit from the HKS 272's on the top end
 
Cyclone not too far from Jmf.
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My turbo was with a gt3582r. I got a gtx3076r now with a FP bolt on housing.

Jmf vs cyclone. Not a good comparison because boost level is different. The boost control solenoid duty cycle is the same for both runs at 20%. They just spool the turbo differently with the same boost setting. The cyclone must be flowing more in the midrange JMF definitely kick ass up top.

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All my Dyno runs are 4th gear pull.

This is the Forrester intake spike to 27psi real quick. I only have PTE 950cc injectors do it is just a quick spike to see the power and tq.
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This is what happened when I spiked to 28psi and tapered to 24psi with the cyclone intake manifold. It was heading to 500tq and I had tire spin and one dead ACT 2600 street disc setup.

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All my Dyno runs are with the gt3582r. My friend is running the gtx3076r. His turbo and setup made more average power and spool fast than my car when I went to an auto tranny. I can not find the Dyno sheet but I was only able to make 400hp instead of 500++hp when i went to the auto. On 55 shots, I was only able to mustard 480hp of the usual 600+hp in manual mode. I had a garbage re-stalled converter that was probably sucking up too much power.I was able to go 10.9s with a 1800-2000rpm of ultra laggy launch on the 55shots. My friend car is do much more responsive. He can stall up to 3000rpm and the gtx3076r can build boost so much quicker. His car should be a beast when it hits the track.
 

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Have the 14b wastegate actuator setup to open the butterfly. The original butterflies actuator blew up when I pressure test it to 30psi. I guess it blew up because it was old. The butterflies did not help to spool up the 35r. I ran the car from 2000rpm-8500rpm with the butterflies close and opened. From 2000-4000rpm, there was zero gain with the butteryflies closed. With the butterflies closed above 4000rpm, I saw about 100hp lost all the way to 8500rpm. I have a cyclone intake manifold ported with the butterflies removed that I will test soon. My guess is the non butterflyintake manifold will make more power because of less restriction. Driving on the street, the car does feel responsive with the cyclone intake manifold around 1000-3000rpm.

My car has the cyclone intake manifold right now. I will be putting on a modified Honda intake manifold in a week or two for a comparison test. I will definitely keep you guys posted.
 
Is english your first language? If so, can you please make an effort to write clearly so we can all understand you.

Aside from that, I am glad to see someone thinking outside the box. I am all for making stuff and fabbing your own stuff.
 
dyno 1: butterflies actuator disconnected from boost source=butterflies closed. dyno 2000-8500rpm.

dyno 2: butterflies actuator connected to boost source=working and opened at 4300rpm. dyno 2000-8500rpm.


biglady112. You are so smart. How can you tell I was not born here? I am still confused between the two languages. I am blaming my writing problem on public education and addiction to drag racing. How is that blue trash can with the 4g63t or 4g61t? I want to see that truck in action.

I have this picture of my old 89 Colt GT just in case you guys think I don't like the cyclone intake manifold.
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no offense, but it just doesn't seem worth it to me. Is this manifold supposed to replace a SMIM one? IT just seems that there is already some good options for intake manifolds for our motors. Stock, cyclone, evo3, and then all the different SMIM. I just dont see this one out performing an evo3 enough for people to have to do the work to make it fit. Just my opinion though good luck with your testing.
 
You didn't expect to see any gain with the butterflies closed throughout cutting off half of the air supply did you? Or was that just for testing sake?

GL with it looking forward to the next cyclone test.
 
You didn't expect to see any gain with the butterflies closed throughout cutting off half of the air supply did you? Or was that just for testing sake?

GL with it looking forward to the next cyclone test.

I expected the power to be higher from 2000-4000rpm because air is going through the higher velocity runners. However the turbo was spooling so slow, it did not matter.

no offense, but it just doesn't seem worth it to me. Is this manifold supposed to replace a SMIM one? IT just seems that there is already some good options for intake manifolds for our motors. Stock, cyclone, evo3, and then all the different SMIM. I just dont see this one out performing an evo3 enough for people to have to do the work to make it fit. Just my opinion though good luck with your testing.


This member has an Evo 3 intake manifold. See how the power drop up top. This could be from having too small of a turbine housing or boost drop. I believe it is the intake manifold fault because my friend's Jose's Gsx has a power band like this one using an Evo 3 intake msnifold. My friend Jose is running 30psi with a Gt35r with a .63 turbine. I think the Evo 3 is a good option. We just did not have one and thought the Evo 3 runners were too long. Plus we would still have to port the Evo3 to match the 1g intake ports

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/433288-hta73-green-21psi.html

This manifold is can be an option for guys trying to Optimize their setup. Using different runner length manifolds to broaden the operating power band is not for everyone.
 
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Have the 14b wastegate actuator setup to open the butterfly. The original butterflies actuator blew up when I pressure test it to 30psi. I guess it blew up because it was old. The butterflies did not help to spool up the 35r. I ran the car from 2000rpm-8500rpm with the butterflies close and opened. From 2000-4000rpm, there was zero gain with the butteryflies closed. With the butterflies closed above 4000rpm, I saw about 100hp lost all the way to 8500rpm. I have a cyclone intake manifold ported with the butterflies removed that I will test soon. My guess is the non butterflyintake manifold will make more power because of less restriction. Driving on the street, the car does feel responsive with the cyclone intake manifold around 1000-3000rpm.

My car has the cyclone intake manifold right now. I will be putting on a modified Honda intake manifold in a week or two for a comparison test. I will definitely keep you guys posted.

Your results seem to indicate the Cyclone intake was a very poor choice for you. So far I have seen two cars with fantastic results using properly setup cyclone mani's, Keltalon and 94awdcoupe! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...-record-7bolt-swap-results.html#post151203003 This guy 94awd look at his dyno,his car is making nearly 300whp between 2k and 4k rpms's so your issue puzzles me.

Is it the turbo? Tuning? Sort of strange to me. I'm pretty sure Kelvin is gonna breakthe record with the cyclone setup.
 
I like the cyclone intake manifold. That is why I have it on car. At the boost I am at, it the good power. I am just searching for that little bit more up top since the auto magic tranny put you into the 6000-6500rpm range after a shift. The cyclone seem to drop off after 6500rpm and require more boost to obtain the same power.

The Honda manifold is plentiful for cheap. It can be a good upgrade if does indeed perform well. The cyclone or Evo 3 is not readily available. Jmf, Magnus and Buschur all make good manifolds for guys who don't want to go through the trouble. If you want to explore the full potential of your engine, you got to try something crazy.
 
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