Gtx3076r 4g63t with Honda b18 intake manifold=good power

[ceedawg]

I like the cyclone intake manifold. That is why I have it on car. At the boost I am at, it the good power. I am just searching for that little bit more up top since the auto magic tranny put you into the 6000-6500rpm range after a shift. The cyclone seem to drop off after 6500rpm and require more boost to obtain the same power.

The Honda manifold is plentiful for cheap. It can be a good upgrade if does indeed perform well. The cyclone or Evo 3 is not readily available. Jmf, Magnus and Buschur all make good manifolds for guys who don't want to go through the trouble. If you want to explore the full potential of your engine, you got to try something crazy.

No but the way you characterized the mani with the butterflies being open or closed,the rpms in which you felt no boost or no big difference, I would think that the mani did not work for you based on your prior post. So it leads me to question if there were issues su h as a vacuum leak,boost leak, your report on your use of the mani and the cars response just led me to post about your findings as I am going to be installing one with my huge t4 turbo and twinscroll exhaust manifold.

 

[killercolt]

ceedawg. I did two dyno pulls from 2000-8500rpm.

1 pull with butterflies set to not open by disconnecting the vacuum line to the 14b actuator that opens the butterflies.

1 pull with butterflies actuator arm disconnected from the 14b actuator and zip tied to force the butterflies opened.


Both dyno runs showed the same power from 2000-4000rpm. After 4000rpm, there is about 100hp lost with the butterflies closed.

I don't have any vacuum leak. I have experimented with different timing and fuel setting to get the car to spool quicker. You are suppose to run low timing or rich afr down low to help the turbo spools. Twicks show my friend these two tricks. These two trick do not work on my car and some of the car I help to tune.

 

[BigBeans]

I've got to be honest, while the boost is relatively low, i don't consider this good power for a 65lb turbo with nitrous on a FWD.

If this was my setup i'd go back to the drawing board.

 

[killercolt]

I've got to be honest, while the boost is relatively low, i don't consider this good power for a 65lb turbo with nitrous on a FWD.

If this was my setup i'd go back to the drawing board.

I would be concern if it is a manual transmission car but I know the automatic sucks up a lot of power. This car will probably make 600hp+ if it is a manual. When I converted to an automatic, my car lost 100+hp so it is true that the automatic transmission is very parasitic. We are going to turn the boost up and give it some juice to make 600hp+ through the automatic. It will be interesting to see if it can make it without blowing up. Go or blow! That is our philosophy.4'

 

[ceedawg]

ceedawg. I did two dyno pulls from 2000-8500rpm.

1 pull with butterflies set to not open by disconnecting the vacuum line to the 14b actuator that opens the butterflies.

1 pull with butterflies actuator arm disconnected from the 14b actuator and zip tied to force the butterflies opened.


Both dyno runs showed the same power from 2000-4000rpm. After 4000rpm, there is about 100hp lost with the butterflies closed.

I don't have any vacuum leak. I have experimented with different timing and fuel setting to get the car to spool quicker. You are suppose to run low timing or rich afr down low to help the turbo spools. Twicks show my friend these two tricks. These two trick do not work on my car and some of the car I help to tune.

Strange is all I can say. I can't wait to test mines or hear keltalons results from his new setup!

 

[NHerron]

To the OP, have you considered looking into flowbench testing? There's plenty of DIY articles out there on Google to make your own. If I had the room in the garage I'd have one made already. But sadly, I hardly have room to walk around in haha.

 

[killercolt]

I went to the Dyno with my friend today to see if the cyclone intake would give us a better power band for our gearing than the Honda intake manifold. It looks like for drag racing purpose, the Honda intake manifold will serve us better overall. For daily driving, the cyclone might be a better choice. You guys can make the call. We were running wastegate pressure of 23psi like before the test with the Honda intake manifold.

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This is dyno with the Honda intake manifold run again for quick comparison.

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http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/...EDCF48C3-423-0000002C5E439290_zpsa954e2de.mp4

 

[NHerron]

You guys seem knowledgable, why not flowbench the intake system and "tune" each part for a specific powerband? It seems like this is just guessing and wasting time/money. I don't mean anything rude, I just figured fbt would be much more accurate considering how much time you're willing to spend for the best manifold fitted to the application. I love this sorta thing, I'm curious that's all.

 

[killercolt]

I wish we have a flow bench or how to operate one correctly. Superflow is the only brand that I am familiar with but it is pretty expensive. I ask a local shop and they want 500 bux to bench flow it. Yike! My friend own a dyno so we test for free. The latest dyno test is 50 bux for three pulls after cleaning up the fuel on the street and a bit on the dyno. We are not wasting much money so far.

 

[NHerron]

Right on, I wish I could afford a commercial one but thats wayyy too much money. Ive read about the build it yourself setups but I dont know if Id have the time to actually make one. They do have good results with those diy ones though.

How about buy the AEM dyno which mounts with the driveline running through it? I dont have any experience or read about it much past the intro but it might be cheaper in the long run.

Anyway, cool thread thanks for sharing