The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

gsx-How to make a fast street car running a green turbo ?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrianGSX

Probationary Member
7
1
Feb 7, 2008
Wroclaw, Europe
Hello, at the beginning i’d like to appologise if I copy an already existing topic, but I ve searched very long and havn’t found answers to my questions. :confused: I m from Poland were we have some strong 2g GSX’s but this subject is still crawling. That’s why I m asking you for help, because of your bigger experience.

I ll start from showing you my current stage:


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


MODEL:

Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 1996
Modifications :

Engine : 2.0 16v turbo ( 4G63T) :hellyeah:

Turbo:
FP Green ,bov Tial ,

Air Intake System:
K&N filter , intercooler

Exhaust system:
3" stainless steel from the engine, Wastegate 41mm Tial

Cooling :
Radiator Fluidyne 38mm,Radiator Hoses Samco ,2 x Slim Fun Maradyne High Performance 12"

Injection system :
550 ccm injectors, Walbro 255l/h fuel pump

Electronics :
Apexi S-AFC II, turbotimer HKS Type 1, NGK sparks, Taylor 10,4 mm Ignition Wires

Transmission :

Greddy Kevlar timing belts and balance belts , manual transmission + short shifter + ACT 2900 ibs + LSD

Suspension :
Kayaba GR2 shocks , front and rear Megan Racing Strut Bars

Plans :
Strocker kit 2,4 lit SBR Stage II

My question is about :

Which camshafts would you suggest ? WTF

- Brian Crower
-Force Performance
-HKS
-Crower
-CompCams
-Greddy

Maybe some others, i m thinking about the 272/272 configuration, what do you think ?

Which Intake manifold ?
-Magnus
-JMF

exhaust manifold – ram type like DN Performance or a short one like FP

What do you think about the flywheel, I want a compromise, don’t want the car to act nervous, thinking about ACT ProStreet

Cam Gears ?

HKS
Fidanza
Greddy


I’d like to have a street car with a strong bottom
All suggestions and proposals are more than welcome.

The goal is to gain the max power from the green turbo :hellyeah:
 
We can give you a little better advice with some more information. You say you want a fast street car, but also you want the most horsepower as possible? In order to be fast your parts and powercurves will need to correlate, however you can get more power and yet retain slower 1/4's. How much boost do you want to run? Is it goining to be primarily a 1/4 mile car or more highway/topend stuff?

As far as you parts list so far, i would defintly go with the 280's if you have a 2.4.

But there is one problem with is an safc2 and and 550's are not going to bring you anywhere near maxing the full potential of the green. In fact your entire set-up will really be over kill untill you upgrande your tuning system and fuel.

As far as a midline flywheel that act is great option, and my preferred choice on all my builds.

For the intake manifold i would go jmf if it were me and the cam gears not to familiar if some have benefits over others, but generally shouldn't differ much just pick the ones you like. If i am wrong on this someone please chime in.

But again member that you are getting a turbo that retains decent spool and with a 2.4 its really going to get up there quick. Then you have cams and an intake manifold based on top-end power and a fuel system that will max ###### around 20psi , but your paying for a block that can easily hold 500whp? It just needs some small tweaks and should be an excellent set up.
 
-Im a fan of the HKS 272 cams..but thats my own opinion. I was actually thinking about doing an FP1 intake and HKS 272 exh. cam setup in mine before I decided to do a 2.3 stroker build. Now Im looking into the FP3 cams since they were designed more for stroker engines.
-Both of the intake manifolds from Magnus and JMF are awesome..have you decided which throttle body youre going to be running with the setup? If the Magnus is in your budget, Id go with that one.
- As for the exh. mani. I like the FP steel cast ones..theyre strong and dont really have the chance of cracking like a tubular one..BUT the DN Performance manifolds are strong and have never heard of one cracking.
-I have a friend thats been using nothing but Fidanza flywheels on his DSMs. I havent gotten that far into my tranny yet so I cant really say much on that topic.
-If youre going with different cam gears, such as the HKS adjustables, do you know what youre doing when it comes to adjusting them? Ive always stuck with the stock cam gears so thats another topic you might want to look into a little further.

..I know this is a little off topic but quick question..your car runs ok with the 2g mas and no recirculation to the bov? It doesnt look like theres a recirc. tube in the pic. Just wondering! Good luck!!
 
I personally am a fan of HKS cams also, I've never had any reliability issues and they've always made great power.
 
First thing i saw was 550 injectors and just stopped reading. Def. change that before anything else, and hopefully something better to tune with. Whoever, or you before posting this did not follow the upgrade path very well. :nono:

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
I def. agree with vette. Ditch the stock intake, upgrade your injectors, and def. get something better to tune with. Cam wise if you don't mind the lope you could probably go with some 280's and still ahve a decent street car. I have a friend running some 280s in his talon on his 2.0 and they are def. fun :).
 
First thing i saw was 550 injectors and just stopped reading. Def. change that before anything else, and hopefully something better to tune with. Whoever, or you before posting this did not follow the upgrade path very well. :nono:

James :dsm::talon::laser:

Ya same here... you need like 850 or bigger to get anywhere close to the potential of that turbo... YOu have alot of go fast part and have spent alot of money on them but you have no tuning... The ONLY thing i changed from the dsm shootout where i ran a 12.99 to 2 nights ago when i ran a 12.60 was DSMLink... 4 tenths by getting tuning software... I think you need to start steering towards the engine management side..
 
Something between 750-850 injectors will keep up with the turbo. Depending on fuel type, boost at the manifold, and a few other factors. My buddies evo with the fp green, which is similar to a dsm green, has 880's and has idc's in the low 70's i believe on 25 psi on pump 93. So. 750's you probably could get away with.

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
Agreed. Bigger fuel injectors, ECMLink (formerly DSMLink) and run speed density without the MAF, aftermarket intake snorkel. Exhaust manifold I'd go with the FP racing exhaust manifold ($199), 60mm 1g throttlebody. I like the EVO3 intake manifold, not crazy about sheetmetal intake manifolds/short runner manifolds. Any kind of HKS cam should work out nicely. I've got the Kelford 272 cams for maximum topend. Also running the RRE "no-name" flywheel (similar to the ACT streetlight flywheel), right around 11.25 lbs and about $220. Don't know if I'd go lighter on the street.
 
First i d like to thank everyone who took part in this topic, these are all very good tips. :thumb:

Now i m running only 14,5 psi, got about 320 HP, but for a GSX it’s not enough too big losses on the wheels. :cry:

Won’t the 280’s be to extreme for the street ? :confused:

From what I know for ¼ the 2.0 or 2.1 stroker is better, but I d like to have a car to be a compromise between street and drag, that’s why I decided on a 2,4 stroker kit, to get the best possible bottom. I care about the best possible Time spool so that the turbo hole won’t be felt and so the car would pull from the bottom . I ve also an Eclipse 2g GST on a 16g EVO III (320HP i 425Nm) it s a streetcar and it goes off from 3000 th to the red line. I’d like my GSX to have it similar. :sneaky:

Yes I know that my fuel system is to week and I want to get the SBR Fuel Kit + 850cc + fuel pressure controller and eventually dual walbro 255h. I d like to set the system on an AEM EMS stand alone. :aha:

As far as Magnus and JMF it counts for me which one will be more effective ? I m a lil bit scared about magnus, because a friend of mine has a 2g GSX with GT14 Turbo always above 23 psi the magnus is cracking. :banghead:

When it comes to the Throttle Body i was thinking about BBK 62mm but it could be to small. If you know about something more suitable for my project I d really like to read about it. :confused:

exh. mani. FP steel cast are shorter, DN longer so the spool time will probably be better with the FP. What do you think? I want a fast reaction from the turbo so i d rather go with FP. :)


When it comes to adjusting the cam gears, i personally don’t know how but my tuner knows very well. :aha:

Yeah your right the BOV is atmospheric and the engine is flooded with fuel from the flowmeter but with the heel-and-toe driving technique it’s ok. When I get rid of the flowmeter and install AEM this problem won’t be there. :aha:

As to the intake if I install AEM will I be able to cut out the flowmeter and give a 3” pipe from the filter to the turbo :hellyeah:

In Poland my tuner said that he doesn’t see the need to get hire rpms than 8200 because the Green Turbo has a week Top End. What do you think? :sosad:

MAF in Poland is no more in use and has never been popular bacause we have planty of other better devices to work with and everybody go for stand alone system. :rocks:
 
I'll chime in a little since I had a pretty quick Green powered car back in the day.

Won’t the 280’s be to extreme for the street ?

For a street car, probably. Stick to something 272/272 range. HKS 272's are some of the most proven cams out there. FP2 (Forced Performance) cams also perform flawlessly and have near stock idle, as where the HKS 272's are very lopey

I ve also an Eclipse 2g GST on a 16g EVO III (320HP i 425Nm) it s a streetcar and it goes off from 3000 th to the red line. I’d like my GSX to have it similar. :sneaky:

The Green might not hit full boost by 3000rpm, even with the 2.4L, but I would guess that 3500rpm is possible.

Yes I know that my fuel system is to week and I want to get the SBR Fuel Kit + 850cc + fuel pressure controller and eventually dual walbro 255h. I d like to set the system on an AEM EMS stand alone. :aha:

Do NOT buy a single thing from SBR if you do not want headaches. Your problem will be compounded even more since you are overseas. If it's just an FPGreen turbo you are powering, you won't need anything more than a simple, single Walbro 255HP pump. The stock fuel lines are more than adequate as well. Any upgrades to the fuel rail or lines are completely up to you, and will be seen as more of a precaution than a necessity. Bare minimum injector size is 660's if you run 93 octane gas or something around there. I see you are running an AFC to control everything, so the 660's will work out just fine. In the future, look for something that will be able to control your fuel/timing needs more effectively, namely DSMLink, EProm chip flashed for your injectors, or a full standalone EMS.

As far as Magnus and JMF it counts for me which one will be more effective ? I m a lil bit scared about magnus, because a friend of mine has a 2g GSX with GT14 Turbo always above 23 psi the magnus is cracking. :banghead:

The early Magnus stuff had a few instances of cracking. The JMF units are very sturdy and his customer service is top notch.

When it comes to the Throttle Body i was thinking about BBK 62mm but it could be to small. If you know about something more suitable for my project I d really like to read about it. :confused:

Just put a throttle body from a 91-94 DSM on it, and call it a day. Make sure to get the proper seals for the throttle body shaft so they don't leak.

exh. mani. FP steel cast are shorter, DN longer so the spool time will probably be better with the FP. What do you think? I want a fast reaction from the turbo so i d rather go with FP. :)

FP exhaust manifold is a great cost effective upgrade. Can't go wrong with it.

When it comes to adjusting the cam gears, i personally don’t know how but my tuner knows very well. :aha:

Just about every single aftermarket cam for our cars can benefit from adjustable cam gears, except the for the HKS units. They seem to be dead on from the factory and it's hard to extract more power from them via adjustable gears. I've ran the FP2's and picked up a lot of hp playing with adjustable cam timing.

In Poland my tuner said that he doesn’t see the need to get hire rpms than 8200 because the Green Turbo has a week Top End. What do you think? :sosad:

I wouldn't even rev the motor past 7500 with a 2.4L and the Green. It will be out of steam long before that.
 
BBK's have their problems. You don't need larger than 62mm on a Green unless your looking for the most acceleration with the least throttle input.
 
You can also check out some threads on the guys running the n/a throttle bodies. The only thing with running a n/a throttle body is replacing the seals with turbo seals if Im not mistaken. But they are very commonly used on turbod DSMs and are a cheap and wise choice and have put many into the 10 second range. Just something to consider instead of spending more money thatn necessary on a BBK. I found a few on ebay and paid $23 bucks + shipping for mine in good condition with all sensors.
 
I also forgot to mention that a Fuel Pressure Regulator should deff be on top of the list of things to buy next. Running a Walbro 255 and bigger injectors without some type of control may cause you to run rich and wash out the cylinder walls if something isnt tuned right.
 
Get ECMLink for tuning and you can have full timing control, or a stand alone if that is what you are interested in. Adding timing below the boost threshold really changes the spool characteristics of your turbo. You can bring on boost much sooner. I still reach full boost at about the same rpm, but I am in boost as soon as I touch the gas instead of it coming on all at once.

Adj cam gears give you the ability to retard the exh cam a couple degrees which tends to bring spool on quicker.
 
Hi :rocks: I have a quick question for you :confused: I know that it has been many times on this forum. But I have to ask. In Poland, my tuner says that 2.4 (100mm) strocker kit can not occur above 7500 rpms :sosad: I want to rev my engine at least to those 8000 rpms :aha: What would you do in my place? Stay with the 2.4 (100mm)or install 2.2 (94mm) :hmm:? I read a lot on this forum that 2.4 rating can shoot up and over 8 500 rpms but my tuner says something else :banghead:
 
You can spin a 2.4 to 12k if you want. Of course valve float and flow will limit upper rpm.
If you want your engine to last more than a few thousand then yes, keep it lower, there's plenty of power under 7500 with a 2.4L.
 
I thought the RPM limit on engines was determined by your valve springs (if they can uncompress fast enough) and the rod ratio... There are several very informative articles about it on here and elsewhere on the internet, and they explain why each ratio works.
 
Ok, thanks a lot :thumb: I ve decided with my tuner to mount the 2,4 strocker :aha: and rev it to 8000 + a longer transmission, that should recompansate all :hellyeah: I just need for that the strongest retainers and valve springs so that i can safely rev it higher on hydraulic :hmm: what would you recommend, we had some experience with Manley :sneaky: but I ve heard that Brian Crower is also good or maybe something else ? :idontknow:
 
Do you guys think a 190 lph fuel pump will run enough juice to feed the system at 22 psi of boost?
 
Hi guys ! :D
After a long absence i’m back :hellyeah: Over these few years I improved the suspension by installing more effective shocks from Eibach, RM Racing Sway Bar, KYB AGX which greatly improved the driving. I also replace standard brakes by EVO IX calipers with Hawk Performance rotors & HPS brake pads, Enkei PF01, Recaro seats etc.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Now it’s time to tune up the engine :cool: After many hours spent on studying DSM Tuners :confused: I think I don’t need stroker and I stay with 88mm crankshaft :aha: I’ll need for my project a good head with high flows, it should be ready for 600HP+ and 9000rmp. Any suggestions will be very helpful :sneaky: I know there is a lot of offers on heads from FFWD, SIM or Jackson, but maybe some of you have one for sale? :pray: Let me know! :thumb: Thanks ! :rocks:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
FP green wont get you anywhere near 600hp+ The green XL (red size comp wheel with green size turbine the biggest green currently out there iirc) maxed out at 400hp on pump93, with 100% methanol injection. Yes this is one data point, but I believe it was from a dyno tune, and I assume any dyno tuner will be half-decent and get within the ballpark at least.

I think green is a 350-450-500 AWHP turbo depending on fuel. PumpGas will get the lower range, e85 and/or meth will go higher and I suppose ultra race gas + cocaine will get you to 500. Did you even get ECMlink yet?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top