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Greddy type s not blowing off

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BlkGST4Me

10+ Year Contributor
75
1
Jun 22, 2010
elyria, Ohio
i bought a used bov off of a friend of mine and just finally got around to putting it on. i put the ic pipping on and put the bov on and it doesnt seem like its blowing off. it sounds just like the stock one did. i turned the adjustment on the top to make it soft and then hard and nothing worked. Do i need to turn up the boost to make it work or what else could i do?

is it possible that maybe it is seized up?
 
Take it off and see if you can push the valve open by hand when the setting is somewhat soft. If you can't push it open, take the top off and inspect the diaphragm.

Where do you have the vacuum line hooked up to, and which port on the bov?
 
i tried to push it up by hand and it took me useing bothing thumbs, and that was when it was 1/2 hard and 1/2 soft. it seemed pretty stiff....and i have the vacuum tube on the side. not in the back of the bov
 
First off, I hope you aren't venting your BOV without the proper mods to do so i.e. speed density or a GM MAF in blow through mode.


As long as you aren't getting surge and the BOV is doing what it's supposed to don't be concerned about the sound it makes. There are multiple things that will affect the sound.

Also don't be just "turning up the boost" as that's how motors die. Start reading how a turbocharged system works and functions, learn how the DSM operates and then if you are still concerned about a sound go and upgrade to one of the two methods I posted above.

Function and performance over anything.
 
what is speed density and GM MAF ?

The GM MAF is a mass air flow sensor similar to the on you have at the beginning of your intake. As air passes through he sensor regardless of which one it is it becomes metered air.

Metered air is just that, metered which is also called measured. The ECU takes this measurement of air and is expecting this metered air to be in the intake track and make it way to the engine.

If the air doesn't reach the engine (boost leak) then the fuel trims will be off and the car will run poorly. Bigger the air loss the worse your problem is.

The same can be had for a vacuum leak as well which is unmetered air entering the system.

When you use the GM MAF and translator you remove the stock MAS and replace it with the GM MAF either in your intake pipe (draw through which is more accurate) or mount it in your IC piping post BOV (blow through) which allows you to vent un metered air out the BOV.

There is also speed density which is only usable through a couple tuning programs. The one we will talk about is on ECMLink v3.

ECMLink is a tuning program for both 1g and 2g platforms but the stipulation is that it requires to have an EPROM ECU. For a 2g, it is only found on the 95 year.

That version of ECMLink is the only one able to run speed density which is differen from the stock MAS and the GM MAF. You are still taking the same readings but now you are installing 2 sensors instead.

First is a MAP sensor which is a pressure sensor. You want that as close and intimate to the intake manifold as possible. Next is an IAT which stands for Intake Air Temperature (at least that's what I believe :p). That is used to take the airs temperature.


Those 2 sensors combined with the tuning for your engines VE (volumetric efficiency) allow you to run your car without a MAS or MAF. What's nice about SD is that boost or vacuum leaks will not hinder your cars performance via fuel trims. It will still be more or less air getting to the motor from the set boost but you won't stall out n

You could remove all of your intake and IC piping assuming the 2 sensors are still in the system and being read by the ECU and be fine to drive.

So without a GM MAF in blow through or speed density please keep your blow off valve recirculated and fix all of your boost and vacuum leaks. Keep the boost below 15psi as well on the stock turbo. 16g turbo should IMO be no more than 12psi on the stock fuel system.


Scott
 
If it sounds like a 1g bov, then most likely it's doing it's job. You should open it up and inspect the diaphragm in there to make sure there's no tears/holes. One thing that makes the type-s work a lot better at lower boost levels is to remove the smaller of the two springs inside. Makes the valve open much easier with less [if any] flutter.
 
i have it right now recirculating back into the intake..
i drove it today and it is hearable, but barely.
 
I'm guessing you just don't hear it because of it being recirculated. Hard intake and intercooler piping will make it louder, but honestly as was said before, don't worry about the sound.
 
today i took off the recirculating pipe and put my hand over the intake hole and it still barely blew off even then.
 
Well yeah, you need to put load on the engine to get enough pressure built in the pipes you might only get a psi or two when revving in neutral. Please stop bein concerned about he sound. If it isn't causing surge then it's working as it should.
 
yes, its not about the sound im conserned about. its the fact its not blowing off that im worried about. i hope it isnt seized up. do you not understand that is what i was asking about?
 
yes, its not about the sound im conserned about. its the fact its not blowing off that im worried about. i hope it isnt seized up. do you not understand that is what i was asking about?

Okay, my bad. So open the fcuking thing up and put your worries to rest, it takes like 5 minutes.
 
i dont think the vacuum line is as tight as it should be. i know its leaking alittle bit but not too bad i think?
 
Well yeah, you need to put load on the engine to get enough pressure built in the pipes you might only get a psi or two when revving in neutral. Please stop bein concerned about he sound. If it isn't causing surge then it's working as it should.

This!

When you're "putting your hand over it", you're not boosting under load. If you are, you're brave as hell to ride under the hood of a DSM while underway.
 
Well, the first thing i'd look at is the piston on the BOV. I had an older Greddy unit with a brass piston and just last year it seized in the BOV housing and refused to move, and i litterally had to destroy the BOV all together just to get it apart to inspect it was frozen so solid... So see if you cna move the piston by hand pushing in on it with a few fingers, if it moves, then check that the vac line is hooked up and working properly (i.e. sees vacum and not just boost)

just my 0.02, but i had that bad experience with that one greddy so now i'm just waiting to see more doing it
 
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