Got the GST now I have problems.

[Eclipse37]

ok guys today I purchased a 1995 eclipse GST really clean no dents perfect paint great interrior. Looked over the car no engine knock. I knew it had a slight problem with booting and it kinda acted jerky when u started to hit higher RPM and it wanted to cut out but when I shifted it stoped. The guy even told me about it so I just assumed it was like a fuel cut or sumthing. The car is 100% stock. Anyway I got off subject. Ok so I start the car i start getting into 3.5K or higher and the car wants to jerk and cut out. and it seems like if I push the pedal to far down it really wants to cut out. Any of u have any ideas on what the problem might be? I mean I knew I had to fix some thnigs engine wise but I got the car for really cheap so I didn't care. Any help or suggest U could give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Eclipse37]

Ok so first, DO A BOOST LEAK TEST, second CHECK THE VACUMM LINES, third check wires, fourth 91 pump gas is OK, lastly did you throw a CODE/CEL? DSMj89...where are you getting your information, i would love to see it. 91 pump gas is ok, stock psi on a 2g is 12 sometimes 13/14, and lastly i doubt its the transmission it happens before he shifts when hes pressing the gas, so most likey his wires (ill give ya +1 ### u mentioned that)

So what i want for you to do is a BLT, check vac lins and wires...then get back to us

The check engine light is on but I dun have the thing to read the codes and I haven't had the time to take it to autozone. Did u see the video I posted? I also dun know if its safe to drive it because it sounds like it has a horrible lifter tick.

 

[GSXtacy724]

How are you guys doing your boost leaks? By rigging something up to your turbo and pushing air threw it by like a Air Compressor? I know only like 20psi tho. Not trying to hijack this thread but will a car run with aftermarket cams and no tune? Im sure I have vac/boost leaks but my guess is its the cams and no tune. Sorry guys, the forums wont let me start my own thread

 

[Eclipse37]

How are you guys doing your boost leaks? By rigging something up to your turbo and pushing air threw it by like a Air Compressor? I know only like 20psi tho. Not trying to hijack this thread but will a car run with aftermarket cams and no tune? Im sure I have vac/boost leaks but my guess is its the cams and no tune. Sorry guys, the forums wont let me start my own thread

z?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

If you unbolt your converter and run wide open exhaust, I'll bet this car runs like a bat out of hell. There's a test that costs less than $10.

I also bet that the converter is so plugged that you could hold the gas to the floor all day without passing 5000 RPM. There's another free test.

I've been doing this crap professionally for more years than I like to admit, and since I do it professionally, I find that you can't always justify replacing a bunch of parts without knowing that it will yield the desired results first.

People get pissed if you hand them a bill, but the car still runs like garbage.

 

[Zmann42087]

i dont have an after market intercooler. yea U cant take a pic if U want that would help alot.

It doesn't matter if you have a stock side mount or a front mount intercooler. The procedure for a boost leak test is still the same. Pressurize the intake system at either the compressor inlet or from the lower intercooler pipe (LICP). Note testing from the LICP is generally better because it will eliminate test error from air leaked at the turbo seals.

Say im in 5th gear and im trying to accelerate fast the car starts to cut out and jerk like its stuttering. Like it wants to cut out I guess. i tried to take a video of it but it dun make weird noises it just jerks and cuts out like it having a hard time. And it happens when i get into higher RPM and when the boost gets high. The dealer I got the car from said the clutch and tranny were new I cant confirm that but the clutch fells fine 2 me.

Have you done a boost leak test yet? Changed your plugs and wires? If you haven't, you need to. Like I said, eliminate the simple stuff before you go diagnosing a worn clutch. A boost leak test is free (or $5 if you need to build the tester) and spark plugs cost $10.

The check engine light is on but I dun have the thing to read the codes and I haven't had the time to take it to autozone. Did u see the video I posted? I also dun know if its safe to drive it because it sounds like it has a horrible lifter tick.

Definitely get the CEL/DTC checked out at Auto Zone when you get the chance. For the record, I saw your video and agree your lifter tick is quite loud. A lot louder than mine was. Still, there is nothing wrong with driving a car with lifter tick. It is completely safe.

The only time lifter tick is a problem that needs to be addressed is if it's loud enough that it is setting off the knock sensor. On 2g DSMs, the knock sensor will retard ignition timing when it detects knock (or really loud lifter tick). That said, I think lifter tick could very well be your problem. Pulled timing can some times feel like a stumble or a hesitation. Your lifter tick might be so severe that it is setting off the knock sensor.

I wouldn't go worrying about this yet, but it's still something I wanted to mention because I think it is a possibility after watching your video. The fix would be to install revised/3g lifters. Kenamond has a great write up on the process that can be seen here. Like I said, don't worry about it yet though. Do a BLT, change your plugs & wires, and go from there.

 

[Eclipse37]

It doesn't matter if you have a stock side mount or a front mount intercooler. The procedure for a boost leak test is still the same. Pressurize the intake system at either the compressor inlet or from the lower intercooler pipe (LICP). Note testing from the LICP is generally better because it will eliminate test error from air leaked at the turbo seals.





Have you done a boost leak test yet? Changed your plugs and wires? If you haven't, you need to. Like I said, eliminate the simple stuff before you go diagnosing a worn clutch. A boost leak test is free (or $5 if you need to build the tester) and spark plugs cost $10.





Definitely get the CEL/DTC checked out at Auto Zone when you get the chance. For the record, I saw your video and agree your lifter tick is quite loud. A lot louder than mine was. Still, there is nothing wrong with driving a car with lifter tick. It is completely safe.

The only time lifter tick is a problem that needs to be addressed is if it's loud enough that it is setting off the knock sensor. On 2g DSMs, the knock sensor will retard ignition timing when it detects knock (or really loud lifter tick). That said, I think lifter tick could very well be your problem. Pulled timing can some times feel like a stumble or a hesitation. Your lifter tick might be so severe that it is setting off the knock sensor.

I wouldn't go worrying about this yet, but it's still something I wanted to mention because I think it is a possibility after watching your video. The fix would be to install revised/3g lifters. Kenamond has a great write up on the process that can be seen here. Like I said, don't worry about it yet though. Do a BLT, change your plugs & wires, and go from there.

Does A light come on when It detects a knock? Because I have a light on next 2 the door open light that ive never seen before it it's orange and looks like pillers or something :/

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That light is your low coolant light. Ahem... Converter

 

[Eclipse37]

That light is your low coolant light. Ahem... Converter

That a sign of the converter might be shit?

 

[Zmann42087]

Yes, a light does come on when the sensor detects knock (or thinks it detects knock).

Watch this video. A light flashes very briefly due to knock when the guy shifts to 4th. Oh, but do ignore the larger flashing light below it though. If you read the video comments, you'll see the larger light is due to a broken e-brake cable.

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[Colt4G63 also]

I have DSMLink, and I was able to set my CEL to come on when my ECU is retarding the timing 5 degrees due to knock. I can set it to come on at any degree of knock retard that I choose. I also have the option to set my CEL to come on at a predetermined coolant temp of my choosing, or make my stock boost gauge display throttle position (among other things), but I can not say for sure that a stock ECU will flash the engine lamp for knock. I was under the impression that it only would light up for the knock sensor, if it detects a LACK of knock sensor activity.

I can't say that the light would flash when the stock ECU sees knock SOLEY based on that video, because I would not be suprized one bit if he was running DSMLink too.

 

[Eclipse37]

Yes, a light does come on when the sensor detects knock (or thinks it detects knock).

Watch this video. A light flashes very briefly due to knock when the guy shifts to 4th. Oh, but do ignore the larger flashing light below it though. If you read the video comments, you'll see the larger light is due to a broken e-brake cable.

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Kk well I will go get new plugs and wires and see if that works. How much do NGK normally cost? and also I dun have any gaping tools :/

 

[gsxeclipse97]

No that is incorrect. the only way the light comes on if you have knock is if you have an ecu that is designed to do that. The only thing that will happen on a stock car is that timing will be pulled.

Do a boost leak test like everyone said, change the plugs and wire ect.. coolant and all fluids. This is the best way to be sure that your car is in the best condition. Otherwise you are taking chances! you don't know the history of the car. Also check for exhaust leaks before the turbo make sure the gaskets are there and not broken. this will also cause your car to run lean if you think that is a possible problem. But since our cars are tuned rich from factory I don't see that as a possible problem.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

That a sign of the converter might be shit?

No, but the fact that it seems to pull better after an upshift is. The exhaust pressure backs up in the pipe during high RPM WOT conditions.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

No that is incorrect. the only way the light comes on if you have knock is if you have an ecu that is designed to do that. The only thing that will happen on a stock car is that timing will be pulled.

Thank you! I hate to say I told you so, but there it is. Exactly what I thought. Now if you would just check to see if your converter is plugged!!! I feel like I'm pulling teeth.

And seriously, does everyone else have a red hot manifold. Is that totally normal? Really? I mean sure, after an 1100HP pull on a dyno, but on a car that barely runs? Yeah OK.

I'm going to bed now, I have to go fix cars for money in the morning. Good luck kids.

 

[Zmann42087]

Kk well I will go get new plugs and wires and see if that works. How much do NGK normally cost? and also I dun have any gaping tools :/

Pick up NGK BPR6ES plugs and gap them to .028". It should only cost $10-$12 for the plugs. Gapping tools are cheap. I use a feeler gauge which is only around $5. If you want even cheaper than that, most auto parts stores have "coin style" spark plug gapping tools for a dollar.

Note what the other guys said is probably correct. You won't see a CEL for knock unless you're running DSMlink. My mistake.

 

[Eclipse37]

Thank you! I hate to say I told you so, but there it is. Exactly what I thought. Now if you would just check to see if your converter is plugged!!! I feel like I'm pulling teeth.

And seriously, does everyone else have a red hot manifold. Is that totally normal? Really? I mean sure, after an 1100HP pull on a dyno, but on a car that barely runs? Yeah OK.

I'm going to bed now, I have to go fix cars for money in the morning. Good luck kids.

Lol I cant do it right now it's like midnight! I will do it first thing tomorrow tho. And I will let u know what I get. I will take a picture also.

 

[Eclipse37]

I will also go tomorrow and get the spark plugs and gap them. Then we can go from there.

 

[Bluefire16]

And the verdict is?

 

[97GSTAUTO]

And the verdict is?

Alot of wasted time from people posting possible solutions with none of them actually being executed. Just more and more questions. You cant fix your car with questions. You actually have to break out the tools and use them. If you dont have any you need to go and buy some. Because they will definately get used.

 

[Eclipse37]

Alot of wasted time from people posting possible solutions with none of them actually being executed. Just more and more questions. You cant fix your car with questions. You actually have to break out the tools and use them. If you dont have any you need to go and buy some. Because they will definately get used.

Yea I did take the advice just took me a few days. OK as of today I went to auto zone did ecu scan they say it's throwing codes on the cam Position Sensor and the Knock sensor. I got new spark plugs gapped to 0.28 and installed them. Im not sure how its running yet because it got dark and it was cold outside but I will get it started tomorrow and let u know what happens. Unfortunately I dun have the money right now to get a new cam position senor. There might have been more codes im not sure the dude at auto zone wasn't that bright.

 

[Eclipse37]

Oh also on the video I posted I dun think that is a lifter tick anymore it sounds more like the EGR valve of something in that area is Messed up.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Does it sound like the exhaust is being forced out of the EGR valve because it has nowhere else to go?

 

[Eclipse37]

Does it sound like the exhaust is being forced out of the EGR valve because it has nowhere else to go?

I dun think so. it's just really loud and sounded like a lifter tick but im like 95% sure the EGR is messed up in one way or another. I haven't taken it off and inspeced it but I will be back outside tomorrow working on it so i will let everyone know what i get.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You would be suprized how many times I've seen people mistake exhaust leaks near the engine, for engine ticks.

 

[Eclipse37]

You would be suprized how many times I've seen people mistake exhaust leaks near the engine, for engine ticks.

Well I will check it and re check it agin to take sure. just be sure to stop in tomorrow i should have more updates.