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Good turbos for my 350whp goal on a budget?

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Wanagofast

Proven Member
108
3
Nov 12, 2013
Newman lake, Washington
I currently have a T04e from ebay and i don't know what to do. Rebuild it with Garret parts or buy a new turbo? And if i rebuilt it what would give me alil extra reliability? Lastly i need good recommendations for turbos that are under 500- 400$
 
Throw it away and start over with something that performs. Doesn't matter what internals you put inside it, you're not going to overcome a compressor wheel made out of recycled soda cans and a turbine that snaps if you run over 18psi.
 
I currently have a T04e from ebay and i don't know what to do.

Throw it away, list it back on eBay, paper weight, fishing boat anchor? Anything except for "bolt it to your car".

Rebuild it with Garret parts or buy a new turbo?

The latter option is most prudent.

And if i rebuilt it what would give me alil extra reliability?

Depends on the availability of quality parts, if you can actually get them, and install them correctly at least 2 of these 3 seem highly doubtful.

Lastly i need good recommendations for turbos that are under 500- 400$

I am going to assume bolt-on friendly by the low budget requirements. So, 14b, 16g, 20g. The last one will get you closest to 350-400 CRANK HP (not wheel).

Those are regularly found for less than $500 in the classifieds. Want something that's guaranteed not to fail out of the box, then go to forced performance .com and go nuts. Best bolt on turbos hands down. You will be spending at least $650 since last time I browsed (lusted) through the site.
 
I was leaning towards the 16 or 20g's but where do i fine a quality one for cheap considering im not a proven member i can't search the classifieds....:ohdamn:

My bad i can.... dang it. Thats what happens when you new ...:nono:
 
I was leaning towards the 16 or 20g's but where do i fine a quality one for cheap considering im not a proven member i can't search the classifieds....:ohdamn:
Pick one...you can't have both. You need to lose the eBay mentality if you want to go fast and make it last. ;)

Count on spending at least $300 for a good used 16G and $350 for a good used DSM bolt-on 20G....the better the condition, the higher the price. If the price is cheaper than that, assume that something is wrong with the part or the seller.
 
With all supporting mods and dsmlink could the 16g get me to my goals? and what size injectors would i run with these turbos?
 
You could do a number of things in this situation. Everyone has pointed out that you should not go with Ebay stuff. This is correct.

You have options besides a 16g or 20g or FP turbo though... You can buy a used Holset HX35 for $300. Then you would just need a hotside to go with it to make it bolt on. That will get you your HP range easily...

A MHI EVO 16g would maybe take you there, but would be at the upper register of it's capabilities for people who aren't master tuners with LINK.

A 20g would get you there easier than a 16g.

I've tuned 14b's, 16g's, and holsets, and the holset was, by far, the easiest to tune with Link for me. Total cost for a holset setup would be $300 for turbo, $250 for hotside from BEP, oil feed and return lines. Sometimes you can find a package for less if you look hard enough.

You would have a very capable, tough turbo for less than $600 that can get you past your current goals. You can boost anything from 15psi to 35psi on it too.

I've been pushing mine to 30 psi for over 20k miles and have had no issues. All things to think about.

Good luck finding what you need. I always wanted a 16g until I got one and realized that I wanted more out of my car....

-Scott
 
You can check your local craiglist postings for an Holset series turbo. I bought one for 250 dollars, the guy took it off his truck that day because he wanted to upgrade and met me half way. I bolted it on that night.

Your mitsu based turbos are going to be the easiest upgrade because they are more of a plug and play affair. If you go holset you will most likely need to change your manifold or o2 housing to work with the external waste gate set up and also have to purchase an external wastegate. You can buy a bolt on dsm housing that will allow you to use the holset with your manifold and exhaust with the wastegate built internally but its not as good for boost control. You will also need oil drain fitting and ss or slip lock fittings for the turbo and not to mention a oil feed line from the oil filter housing. Depending on turbo clearance to the water pipe you may have to slightly dent it for the turbo to fit with the stock manifold. Theres a little more to it then just slapping it on like a 16g or 20g. You will also need a 4 inch coupler and intake pipe to run to your mass air sensor which can also add up in price. With the MHI (mitsubishi heavy industries) based turbos you can just use your stock mass air and intake pipe. Hope that helps.
 
What about a 20g wheel on a 16g? that sounds pretty nice and the spool would pretty great? How much would this cost?
 
What about a 20g wheel on a 16g? that sounds pretty nice and the spool would pretty great? How much would this cost?
You would have to machine the 16g housing to fit the 20g wheel. You might also run into surge issues at higher boost. The 20 g on its own can hit 45 lb/min but i doubt it will reach its full potential in flow with this combination due to the Td05h turbine in a 7cm housing...This is important since it relates to overall compresor efficiency.
Too much hassle IMO. An evo III 16g can max out at around ~42 lb/min ready to go unmodified with the 7cm turbine housing. i think it would be much properly matched this way to get close 325-350 whp. Justin will surely give you a better verdict on this guys.
 
Surging comes from putting a mating a rapid spooling turbine to a compressor that moves to much air down low. It really doesn't have to do with with the max boost pressure. I've been running different 20g combos for over 10 years and they can surge with a td05 turbine but it is really independent of boost. If you 20g setup isn't surging spooling to 18psi it isn't going to surge when you try and hold 30psi. I think the word gets thrown around a lot.
 
For what it's worth, on an evo3 16g, my car made 343hp on a mustang dyno. That's right in your goal range. This little turbo packs quite a kick for what it is. I am planning on playing with it some more next season to see if any more power can be extracted. :)
 
for the $ the hx35, h1c or wh1c is the way to go hands down and the rebuild kits are only around $40 I had the evo 16g first and it doesnt even compare to the holset. dont waste your $ on 16g...
 
Why? When you can run low 12s to high 11s on a properly tuned 16g? Then you also have a car with crazy fast spool! Don't completely disregard the smaller turbos. Also if you plan on doing any sort of autox, the smaller turbo will also benefit you there too.
 
Forced Performance Turbochargers: FP 68HTA for DSM


Snag this while its on sale, it will get you to your power goals, and it wont blow up doing so.

As has been stated ad nauseam, you can not have cheap and reliable. Generally speaking, you have three things, cheap, reliable, fast, and you are allowed to pick two. My point is, it is worth it to spend a little extra now, rather than buy parts twice, or even worse have your cheap parts fail and destroy other things. Case in point this video. Skip to 3:10, you will see quickly why buying a cheap turbo is not only futile, but dangerous.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za0DieZHMKc]Holset Turbo Burst Test - YouTube[/ame]
 
95talongirl How much boost are you currently running? Also would porting the !6g help with power? and Whats the injector size are you using?
 
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