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God Damn Transmission mount

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crimsondragon

15+ Year Contributor
4,300
51
Dec 17, 2006
East Brunswick, New Jersey
On my quest to eliminate wheel hop and have stiffer motor mounts, I have been trying to finish my install of Prothanes. I did the driver side and front about a year ago. Those went in and out quickly. I started up again recently and did my rear mount last weekend. It was a pain considering the inserts totally did not fit and I had to burn the rubber out and fill it with construction grade polyurethane. Very stiff though. The tranny mount has given me the most trouble so far. I am not able to clear those god damn studs at all. My engine has bottomed out to the cross member so no way the tranny can move down further. So I decided the only thing left to do is cut the damn studs.

The farthest one in the back worked great. It clears the stud and there's plenty of thread left. This is most likely due to the room from removing the battery. However, the two inner ones are blocked by the fuse box and the harness. I had to squeeze my dremel in between to get it. And even then I only cut it halfway before my cutting wheel snapped off. Put on another one and that snapped off too. :|

So now here I sit thinking how to do this. It's pissing me off slowly. I need to make a trip to the hardware store.
 
just a thought but if two dremel wheels broke then maybe this is a sign that you shouldnt be cutting this thing? Is there any other possible way to get this mount in? Really think about it and read some guides because im sure that others have gone through this same problem and maybe even come up with a solution. Also how are you going to get it back on if you cut it off? Do you have a welder? Do you trust your welding skills enought to weld something that holds up your transmission. Just some thoughts...
 

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I'm only cutting the tips off. I need about like 1/4 inch off each stud for it to clear. Right now I just bought some more wheels, worn down 1, on my 2nd. I cut all 3 just now but I need to cut more off on another stud but now my dremel won't start. I think it overheated.
 
Hey Tim, not sure if your Dremel still isn't working but if you need one we could loan you ours on Sunday.

Also, we have some black colored "reinforced" cutting wheels. You can find them at Home Depot. For around $8 you get five of them but they last much longer and are a lot stronger than the brown ones that come standard with the Dremel kits. These wheels will cut through bolts fairly quickly at a high speed setting - just watch out for all the sparks!

Anyway, we're headed down the shore later today so we could drop off the dremel and wheels for you if you need it!

:dsm::talon::laser:
 

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I ran into the same problem when I did mine. All I did was support the motor under the oil pan with a floor jack and piece of wood and disconnected the drivers side mount at the firewall and lifted the motor just enough for tranny side to go down. It worked and avoided any cutting.
 

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Thanks Keri (or is it Keri's b/f?) for the offer. Luckily my dremel didn't take a full shit. I had to blow through it to get it working again. I did pull out everything in the end and got the Prothanes installed. However, I ran into more trouble. The god damn mount with the Prothanes are too damn fat. It cannot slip in between the brackets. Also the bolts now do not line up. I couldn't finish it since I had some doctor's appointment and I have work all week. Looks like she'll be sitting pretty for the time being. I'm trying to think of some way to bang the brackets further apart.
 
Cutting the studs is going to drastically reduce their integrity.. Better hope they don't rust and you don't need to take them out again
 
Oh and idk if you have enough clearance but a cut-off tool and an air compressor would make quick work out of any metal on your car. I used one to cut my mount to accept a 1g block.
 
I used this method over a year ago on my galant. I used a dremel with a bur bit and all kinds of shit. It works well though. And the dremel doesnt create enough heat on the bolt to reduce the integrity of it. I assure you of this (atleast it didnt with what i used just dont crank it up to high and youll be ok). It hasnt rusted or broken. As for banging on the bracket i wouldnt do that too much. The 97 galant and 2g 4g63t sit the same way and have the same mounts. I had an issue with it being to thick. Lube it up and beat it in the hole. Worked like a charm for me!
 

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I didn't cut anything, I supported the engine, and lowered that cross member that the mounts set on. Tnen I took the bolts out that hold the trans mounts on. It made it a little easier when you could get the mount completely out. It took a little persuading to get the new mounts in the bracket.
 

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Thanks for the advice. I managed to get it bolted on to the tranny but now I'm having trouble seeming to line up the mount with the damn thing. Also it's just a hunch but I think the sleeve might be too small for the bolt. It never ends.
 

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I dont know how MUCH different the 2g motor/trans mount inserts are from the 1g but I remember we had to 'negotiate' the h-ll out of (or into) them when we installed them in the mounts. We had to press them in with a hydraulic press and large c-clamps but it worked out fine. Do you have access to these tools? We had to do a little bit of 'banging' on a bolt or two when installing as well. Its just the mounts I guess.
 
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