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Give me slicks and give me 12's? Frustrated w/ FWD track times....

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project_tsi

Honorary DSM Wiseman
DSM Wiseman
2,699
118
Sep 4, 2004
Eau Claire, Michigan
Man, I am in dire need of slicks, or some serious help otherwise. I recently went to the track last weekend and I'm basically fed up w/ my times. My best was a 14.1 @106 mph. Mods are in profile. My 60' times are basically around 2.3-2.4 sec. My best trap speed was 107 mph that night. What really gets me is I noticed several other FWD cars w/ slicks only trapping 103-104mph running low 13's, or even high 12's. I seriously think that if I can get some slicks then I can get some very decent times. I just cant get a decent 60' or even hardly get traction through 1st and 2nd. I was trying everythink I could think of, different launch RPM's, multiple air pressures, all the way down to 12psi in the fronts, and 44 in the rears. I made about 10 runs that night, all w/in 1/10 of each other and w/in 1mph trap speed, so I'm very good w/ being consistent. I'm good w/ shifting, and even decent w/ the tree lights, mostly getting .600's-.700's. Ive tried slipping the clutch, easing the gas from the start, and everything I can think of, but I couldn't better my times.

So my question is, considering my times, and how they are very consistent, how much gain will I be looking at by investing in some 8" slicks? Also should I worry about breaking any other drivetrain parts? Also, some FWD track help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dan
 
What are your shock settings, I've gotten the best results on my agx's with 8 rear, 1 front.

Also you're making alot of torque, are you running 1 boost level the whole way down the track?

The reason i ask is because my 14b has run similar times and I didn't know if it was just due to wheelspin issues you're having. Given the hp numbers 107mph isn't a very good trap speed.
 
your hp and trap dont add up at all.
is you clutch in good shape? I was trapping 105 when I was makin like 260hp an I'm sure I weigh more than you. the 60ft will get your times down but you still have issues what that trap speed
 
Yea, forgot to mention if you don't have some sort of lsd device you're pretty much pissin up-wind. Even one of the inserts will show an improvement.
 
mavisky said:
What are your shock settings, I've gotten the best results on my agx's with 8 rear, 1 front.

Also you're making alot of torque, are you running 1 boost level the whole way down the track?

The reason i ask is because my 14b has run similar times and I didn't know if it was just due to wheelspin issues you're having. Given the hp numbers 107mph isn't a very good trap speed.
haha, funny you ask. I only have AGX's in the front w/ Eibach pro's. The rears are stock still. I was trying every setting. I found the best results at 4 in the front's.

Yes, Im using a simple mechanical MBC set at 25 psi. May be a bit high, but I'm not knocking. Id love to invest in a electrict 2 stage boost controller, just dont have the cash right now.

Wheelspin is huge right now. daily driven I can get 3rd to spin.
 
FourG63 97GST said:
your hp and trap dont add up at all.
is you clutch in good shape? I was trapping 105 when I was makin like 260hp an I'm sure I weigh more than you. the 60ft will get your times down but you still have issues what that trap speed
The clutch is good, basically a 4 month old ACT 2100. Im positive its not slipping, i've dealt w/ clutches my whole life.

What do you think will help my traps? W/ the lower 60', then wont the traps be higher?

OH BTW, the HP numbers are OFF, its DSMlinks estimite, probly at least 50hp off.
 
mavisky said:
Yea, forgot to mention if you don't have some sort of lsd device you're pretty much pissin up-wind. Even one of the inserts will show an improvement.
yeah, no lsd at all, not even an insert. I was kinda waiting for the tranny to majorly F up, then go all out utilizing a quafe LSD

However, I may be pulling the engine soon to do some other work on it, would it be to my benefit to put in some Prothane's and a LSD insert for the mean time?
 
Well you've got the agx's on the wrong end then, your ass is squatting and it's costing you traction.

On my car anything more than 1 up front when coupled with the lsd insert and the grip of the falken's seems to result in wheelhop in a straight line at least.
 
CanadianTSi said:
25psi on a 50 trim in a FWD should trap very close to 120...
Yeah, thats kinda what I thought, so help me out. What else should I get to help me? Slicks, shocks, springs, Dual stage boost controller, LSD insert? Help me out here.

Please people, I appreciate the help, but quit telling me somethings wrong, I know, now tell me how to fix it!
 
CanadianTSi said:
Most likely in the tuning.

I'll agree. My big evo 3 on my old FWD was going 14.014@113MPH at it's best. Do you have a wideband by chance and can see what type of A/F ratio you are running?
 
TimG said:
I'll agree. My big evo 3 on my old FWD was going 14.014@113MPH at it's best. Do you have a wideband by chance and can see what type of A/F ratio you are running?

Yes, I have a Innovate wideband. At the top of 3rd and 4th my A/F ratio is 11.7
 
You must have a huge boost leak somewhere. Your trap speed is not even close to where it needs to be. I've gone 122 mph with my Green.

For what its worth, more traction typically REDUCES your trap speed as you will have less track for the car to accelerate because the car is hooking and moving forward quicker.

-d
 
Ok. Does the car feel like a freaking freight train and 25psi or does it feel like a 14b at 16psi?

There has to be something wrong. What are your compression numbers? Have you checked for bad boost leaks? I realize these are simple questions but damn that time does not reflect the work you've put into the car.

What do you shift at? This just doesn't seem right at all. How many dead bodies do you keep in the hatch. I think 5 is the limit.
 
TimG said:
Ok. Does the car feel like a freaking freight train and 25psi or does it feel like a 14b at 16psi?

There has to be something wrong. What are your compression numbers? Have you checked for bad boost leaks? I realize these are simple questions but damn that time does not reflect the work you've put into the car.

What do you shift at? This just doesn't seem right at all. How many dead bodies do you keep in the hatch. I think 5 is the limit.

The car hauls major ass at 25psi, but at 15 psi, its not very peppy. My compression is about 155 accoss the board give or take a few per cyl. The only boost leak I have is at the throttle body gaskets, which I've replaced. The leak is not bad, just enough for me to barely hear it.

For shifting Ive been trying different RPM's, ranging from 6k to 7500. I actually have 0 dead bodies in the car, currenly, ;)
 
Dan - Here's a list of stuff that would definitely help:

Slicks - $400 (w/ wheels and mounting)
LSD insert - $200 (we can install it ourselves)
AGX's in the rear
Dyno time (so you dont have to lie about your current HP, haha :p )

At least you're consistant, so we know it isnt completely driver error. Your tune plays a huge role in your trap speed. The above list will only help with times, not traps. I'd recommend jumping on the DSMlink support forums and post a log and see what they have to say. :thumb:

PS - Cams would also really help; especially with a 50-tim @ 25psi.
 
99gst_racer said:
Dan - Here's a list of stuff that would definitely help:

Slicks - $400 (w/ wheels and mounting)
LSD insert - $200 (we can install it ourselves)
AGX's in the rear
Dyno time (so you dont have to lie about your current HP, haha :p )

At least you're consistant, so we know it isnt completely driver error. Your tune plays a huge role in your trap speed. The above list will only help with times, not traps. I'd recommend jumping on the DSMlink support forums and post a log and see what they have to say. :thumb:

PS - Cams would also really help; especially with a 50-tim @ 25psi.


Thanks for the help Paul, I guess I'll work on it for a while now, and try to tune it better and save some cash. It ended up I do have a month off of driving, so I'm going to do a new t-belt and fix some oil leaks. While I have the time, would Prothane's be a good decision to put in to help wheelhop? I know you can get them at a good price witch is why I ask.
 
Definatly get some slicks. I went from cutting 2.2's and 2.3's, to cutting 1.9's consistantly. And there is definatly something wrong with that trap...I trap 106-108 with only 272 hp and a 14b. Might wanna check for boost leaks like they said and invest in some dyno tuning. Good luck with the FWD, it always makes me happy to see FWD DSM's going fast :cool:
 
project_tsi said:
It ended up I do have a month off of driving
Man, that sucks - I've definitely been in your shoes before.

project_tsi said:
While I have the time, would Prothane's be a good decision to put in to help wheelhop? I know you can get them at a good price witch is why I ask.
Yes, the Prothanes would definitely be a wise purchase IMO. With you being FWD, they might really help fight wheelhop. I'll hook you up as long as you let me do the tech write up. :p
 
I just skimmed through this thread. However here are my opinions. I recently ran a 12.9 at 114 on my 50 trim on street tires. The 50 is a nice wheel for a fwd because boost comes in more smoothly than the MHI turbos making it more forgiving.

You really should have all 4 motor mounts and the LCA bushings. Also adjustable shocks in the front and rear. Your also going to want ground control coilovers so that you can raise the rear and lower the front. Spend some time corner weighting the car with somebody of equal weight in your car in race trim. If your poor like me, just make sure that the left and right sides of the car are the same height. Measure from the top of the wheel well to the ground. My rear is 1.5" higher than the front. Write these settings down. Have the person step out of the car and adjust the coilovers to get the same measurements with nobody in the car. Drive do an alighment shop (I have firestone lifetime free) and have them set up the car with 0 toe front and rear. The rear camber should be 0 or factory specs. The front camber should be 0.75 to 1 degree to help the tires roll flat when your front lifts at the line. When you get the car back home have the person get back in your car and readjust the coilovers to get you the measurements you wrote down.

When you launch the wheel should not pull to the right or left. If it does adjust the tire pressure in each front tire to compensate. IE pulls to the right, reduce left pressure OR raise right. In extreme cases you can jack the oppisite corner rear shock.

My alighment is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy off (hit a few big bumps lately) with the car pulling fairly hard under acceleration (and even normal driving) and I'm still good for 2.1 sixties with decent track prep and 2.2's with little or no track prep on dunlop sp sport a2's. A short 1 second tire clean off in the staging pits is encourage if on street tires. I'm on an open diff so I can't comment on that.

Also you need seat time. I'd explain my launching technique but I'd rather show you. You need about 100 passes to come up with your own technique. Just go out every week or every other week keeping the car the same power wise and try to get the chassis to work.
 
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