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General Unfound GSX Questions

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Mitsubishi-Kid

Proven Member
31
0
Jun 25, 2013
Queens, New York
Ok, so I am new to this forum and this is my first post, I am sure that you guys get a lot of questions for Mitsubishi enthusiasts but the questions I have are more for just understanding my car. with my car being stock I'd rather start to understand it before i decide to go modding it.

I have moderate experience with understanding my car I know some things but the more I know the better.

My Questions;

1) When you remove the front cover to the actual bumper and look to the right under the headlight, there is a black boxy looking part that looks like a Kerosene can. I understand that this is a filter but, a filter for what? and how would it benefit my car when i see people who mod the GSX's always seem to remove that part.

2) My Ex-Girlfriend had a 1G Eclipse and her Oil Cooler was neatly yet tightly tucked away, where is my Oil Cooler on my 2G GSX?

a quick back story, I purchased the car for $3,000 from a very nice 50+ year old man, he kept the car in very nice condition i have had it for about a year since, with no problems, check engine light came on once and it was because 1 of my spark plugs went, a tune up fixed it. then sometime later i had a car accident that ruined my cars air intake system. currently it is in the shop being repaired, i made a promise to devote myself to the car so I have spent the money on repairing it like new again, $2,500. I want the car to hold me about 5 years before i am ready for an Evo X.

3) when i purchased the car, i noticed the ending part of the muffler system was well rusted to a point where i found it pointless to have, so i took it off, been driving "muffler-less" since but I want to purchase place the stock double tip muffler on the car again, although a friend of mine in a VW car club has urged me to not do that and to instead buy a 3" End pipe. would there be any benefit to owning an aftermarket single tip exhaust compared to the stock double tip? isn't it stocked double tipped for a reason?

4) When I think back to my car accident I wonder how an Evo would have helped me handle it, by this i mean in the upgraded features of the Evo's AWD system. could I do a AWD train swap off of an Evo or if not can I add features to my GSX's AWD system like my personal favorite, Automatic YAW control?

5) Does anyone know the actual name of the GSX AWD system? kind of like how the GTR's system is called ATTESA E-TS? or is it just a system Mitsubishi designed but did not give a name?

6) a few months back, I went toe to toe with a Subaru STi with my stock GSX, for those of you in or familiar with Long Island New York, the Northern State Parkway is pretty nice when there is no traffic, and well, that was the best street race i could ever take part in, because that STi had me pushing my limit and I had him loosing his edge, friends of mine say that maybe the STi driver was inexperienced and that I shouldn't have been able to keep pace with him like that, I am curious to know how the STi and GSX compare, Stock for Stock. is it THAT much faster than the GSX?

7) I want to install remote start, but i worry of the electronic failures that can come from it, even though the GSX supports this feature are there any recommendations for a reliable remote start product?

8) has anyone seen the warning label in the trunk by the door latch about the key and unlocking? I have been having issues recently with my trunk to where it is a jiggle fight to unlock it with a key and using the indoor lever leads to me having to sometimes hold it while another person lifts the trunk door open and i want to know if this is common or if i have a bad trunk latch release.

9) a lot of the GSX/GS-T Valve covers have come in different colors, was this a stock thing? and where can I find these Valve covers? I am looking for a red one. mine is green.

10) My anti-lock light has been flashing in my dash for some time, the previous owner explained to me that the drivers side wheel has a bad sensor, at times though it goes away and never comes back, a friend of mine told me the sensor could be loose, i checked myself but could not find where the sensor is, can anyone tell me or give an image of where I can find that sensor?

11) The badges on the back of my car that label "GSX" are fading off and personally, I am not fond of that, can anyone tell me where I can get a new set? I have searched but found nothing so a link with purchase price would be nice if possible.

12) is it possible to have sway bars on the top and bottom of the GSX? or do they come top only?

13) does anyone know any new information on the Mitsubishi RA Concept? to me it really is an Eclipse reborn with Evo inspired parts but is Mitsubishi actually going to release it?

14) being dubbed the "bullet proof engine" yet having a meme on the net captioned "4G63, if your not breaking stuff, your not going fast enough" i see they come with a metal block, and I see that after my car accident I was able to drive home but how durable are these engines? I understand that there is a Hybrid version of these engines too? can a swap be done in the GSX with one? my vehicle is currently at 170K miles. if I treat it right, will she continue to hold up? although i spent a lot of money to fix her after my accident, when i do finally get it out of the shop, will it run right?

15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.

I think for now, these are the only questions I have. I am sure more will come in time. I look forward to anyone's answers.
 
Last edited:
come to think of it, what is my stock psi on my GSX? 11? and how do i adjust the psi again?
You can do this:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../185405-bcs-restrictor-removal-explained.html
Or get a boost controller. Any higher than 15psi on the T2small is blowing hot air and will result in very little to no gains. You'll have the boost controller for later on if you decide to upgrade if you get one early on. You can also get ECMLink V3 and I believe you can use the stock BCS to control boost.
being on the topic of Turbo's, i have a question to add to that, of the choices what do you think would be the best one?
This is such a vague and nearly unanswerable question. You shouldn't even be considering doing a compound/twin setup on your engine. Some people have done compound setups with great results on this forum (search) but you will be better off sticking to a bolt-on turbo route until you learn more about the car you're driving.
with any of these combinations, would it be best to keep it all in the engine bay or do a turbo set up at the muffler line (back pipe)?
Again... as above.
I am sure each one would have it's own advantage or disadvantage but which is best? and has anyone swapped out the turbo for a supercharger (i probably wouldn't do that) or done a combo of turbo and supercharger set up? I am curious to know what that would be like.
Try googling. At the end of what you are searching for, type "dsm". Ex: "supercharged dsm" or "twincharged dsm"
you know, i wondered why that BOV was plastic in my car but i never thought much of it. so with the change to 1G BOV I feel as though i may as well, grab the air intake off a 1G as well, but the smaller intake provides better velocity (right?) so i may as well stick with it. now, besides the 1G BOV can i also do the same for the Evo? i know some parts for the Evo would fit the 2G GSX, Evo III if i'm not mistaken, would i have similar benefits of the 1G if swapped that BOV?
You can actually get an Evo IX BOV which is the metal version of the 2G. Some people have Evo VIII FMIC setups but instead of tracking down the parts and fabbing them up to work, you should really check out our supporting vendors for mods. There is a still tons of aftermarket support for DSMs over most any other cars. You'll end up spending less money and time in the end going with a direct bolt-on specific to your car.
how is the sound on that muffler compared to the stock double tipped one? as strange as this sounds, I like the Evo mufflers because i hear them coming from a block away, but they are not too obnoxious. it's like a low tone bass compared to a high revving Honda Civic which sounds like it's screaming Hooooooon-Duuuuuuuuuh.
You can accomplish this with a full turboback 3" exhaust, some resonators and a decent muffler (try researching Vibrant/Thermal R&D). There are nice bolt on systems out there, and they are very easy to find on youtube.

I know I didn't answer all of your questions but I'm trying to point you in the right direction so you can know where to search for yourself for any questions you have in the future.

I feel like you would benefit from reading this:
Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

It's a little bit out of date but gives you a general idea on what to do to squeeze reliable power out of your DSM.
:thumb:
 
I don't believe he needs a boost controller to up the boost. Isn't there a restrictor in the EBC that comes stock on the GSX?

If i replaced the stock blow off with a new or 1G one, would the restrictor still need to be modified?

You can do this:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../185405-bcs-restrictor-removal-explained.html
Or get a boost controller. Any higher than 15psi on the T2small is blowing hot air and will result in very little to no gains. You'll have the boost controller for later on if you decide to upgrade if you get one early on. You can also get ECMLink V3 and I believe you can use the stock BCS to control boost. :

You actually reminded me, with the blowing of hot air, would it be effective and efficient to install a water cooling system?

This is such a vague and nearly unanswerable question. You shouldn't even be considering doing a compound/twin setup on your engine. Some people have done compound setups with great results on this forum (search) but you will be better off sticking to a bolt-on turbo route until you learn more about the car you're driving. :

True. I was wondering what is most favorable out of curiosity, but I thank you nonetheless. being in New York, i wouldn't need too much power. I'll probably go stage 1 and stay there.


You can accomplish this with a full turboback 3" exhaust, some resonators and a decent muffler (try researching Vibrant/Thermal R&D). There are nice bolt on systems out there, and they are very easy to find on youtube. :

that would be nice. having an exhaust that size provides more back pressure too right?

I know I didn't answer all of your questions but I'm trying to point you in the right direction so you can know where to search for yourself for any questions you have in the future. :

answering 1 of my questions is good enough for me. i thank you for your support.

Also, shouldn't the airbag cause the SRS light to go on and off, not the ABS?

LOL, so before i go fiddling around in there, can i know exactly what i'm touching?

the ABS light constantly flashes, during driving/idling/parked at times, i'd say every 3 out of 10 times, the light does not flash. the previous owner explained to me that it is an issue with the sensor, wasn't sure if it was connected properly after a break change he did. I would like to check myself to see if I can maybe check for dirt or something on that sensor behind the drivers side tire.

is there another way of checking that line to find the source of the problem? and is it under the dash or in the glove box?
 
If i replaced the stock blow off with a new or 1G one, would the restrictor still need to be modified?



You actually reminded me, with the blowing of hot air, would it be effective and efficient to install a water cooling system?



True. I was wondering what is most favorable out of curiosity, but I thank you nonetheless. being in New York, i wouldn't need too much power. I'll probably go stage 1 and stay there.




that would be nice. having an exhaust that size provides more back pressure too right?



answering 1 of my questions is good enough for me. i thank you for your support.



LOL, so before i go fiddling around in there, can i know exactly what i'm touching?

the ABS light constantly flashes, during driving/idling/parked at times, i'd say every 3 out of 10 times, the light does not flash. the previous owner explained to me that it is an issue with the sensor, wasn't sure if it was connected properly after a break change he did. I would like to check myself to see if I can maybe check for dirt or something on that sensor behind the drivers side tire.

is there another way of checking that line to find the source of the problem? and is it under the dash or in the glove box?

You would still need to modify / remove the restrictor. I think a water to air cooling system with a FMIC would be cool but also a waste for the stock turbo setup, but ideal for higher HP setups. And a good exhaust size for the stock turbo... I've run full 3 inch turbo back straight pipe but I didn't like it, I did however run a 3 inch O2 housing to a 3 inch downpipe then some ways down the line of the system dropping to a 2.5 system exiting to a 2.5 inch inlet and dual 3 inch outlet tip straight through muffler. Which sounded very nice. Also worked very nice.
:dsm:
 
ABS and SRS(safety restraint system, I think) are different systems. One malfunctioning will not set the other off, if you have an ABS light on then stick to the brake system for your problem.

Before you go searching for a turbo set up, or a BOV set up, or anything really you first and most importantly need to have a goal. What do you want from your car? A HP number is not a goal, not by itself. You are going to be driving this around town for your daily? You should then look more into low end and quick useable power, not huge turbos and water-meth systems and such.
 
You would still need to modify / remove the restrictor. I think a water to air cooling system with a FMIC would be cool but also a waste for the stock turbo setup, but ideal for higher HP setups. And a good exhaust size for the stock turbo... I've run full 3 inch turbo back straight pipe but I didn't like it, I did however run a 3 inch O2 housing to a 3 inch downpipe then some ways down the line of the system dropping to a 2.5 system exiting to a 2.5 inch inlet and dual 3 inch outlet tip straight through muffler. Which sounded very nice. Also worked very nice.
:dsm:

okay, I'll look into that dual 3 inch outlet set up, that sounds pretty nice.

ABS and SRS(safety restraint system, I think) are different systems. One malfunctioning will not set the other off, if you have an ABS light on then stick to the brake system for your problem.

Before you go searching for a turbo set up, or a BOV set up, or anything really you first and most importantly need to have a goal. What do you want from your car? A HP number is not a goal, not by itself. You are going to be driving this around town for your daily? You should then look more into low end and quick useable power, not huge turbos and water-meth systems and such.

alright so i'll check behind the drivers side tire to see what the deal is with the sensor.

Oh and I already have in mind what I want to do. I am looking for the umph for when i need it but i intend to use this car as my daily driver for the next 5 years or so.

I want the power to move but the control to tame it, but not leave too far from stock. this is why I am trying to consider upgrades around the stock turbo but still open to going with a slightly bigger turbo.

probably wouldn't go beyond stage 1.

would anyone happen to know the answer to my first question of this post?

If that object really is a filter, i'd like to be sure so I can go about changing it if need be.

tomorrow I will visit the shop my car is in and take photos of the filter if it helps.
 
If i replaced the stock blow off with a new or 1G one, would the restrictor still need to be modified?

The boost control solenoid & restrictor have nothing to do with your blow off valve, they control when the waste gate opens on your turbo.

I don't believe he needs a boost controller to up the boost. Isn't there a restrictor in the EBC that comes stock on the GSX?

Removing the restrictor only gives you 1-2 PSI more , If you want to go any higher or want to be able to have control of what you set it at you need a boost controller.

1) When you remove the front cover to the actual bumper and look to the right under the headlight, there is a black boxy looking part that looks like a Kerosene can. I understand that this is a filter but, a filter for what? and how would it benefit my car when i see people who mod the GSX's always seem to remove that part.

Its part of the emissions system, it doesn't require any filters to be changed
 
Removing the restrictor only gives you 1-2 PSI more , If you want to go any higher or want to be able to have control of what you set it at you need a boost controller.

Electronic Boost Controllers are ok right? people on the net say they tend to have failure but i'd prefer it.



Its part of the emissions system, it doesn't require any filters to be changed

this is to my first question? that black box behind the bumper cover on the drivers side is an emissions filter/system?

it functions like the Cat Converter? or in a completely different way?
 
Electronic Boost Controllers are ok right? people on the net say they tend to have failure but i'd prefer it.

They are a lot more expensive, a simple manual boost control will work fine.

this is to my first question? that black box behind the bumper cover on the drivers side is an emissions filter/system?

it functions like the Cat Converter? or in a completely different way?

It catches evaporating fuel so that its not released into the air then sends it back into the intake, its not really a filter.
 
They are a lot more expensive, a simple manual boost control will work fine.

I'll look into some prices for a manual one then.



It catches evaporating fuel so that its not released into the air then sends it back into the intake, its not really a filter.

sounds crucial for the system to have this then. does it also help with fuel economy or just the emissions alone?
 
sounds crucial for the system to have this then. does it also help with fuel economy or just the emissions alone?

It keeps your car from smelling like gas fumes. As long as your not getting any check engine light with codes about EVAP system then you don't really need to worry about it.
 
13) does anyone know any new information on the Mitsubishi RA Concept? to me it really is an Eclipse reborn with Evo inspired parts but is Mitsubishi actually going to release it?

This is the RA concept:
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This is a Mustang concept:
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Either i messed up the search or someone is copying someone again :hmm:

Although would be great if either of them made it into production.
 

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It is for emissions alone, will not help fuel economy, but will also not hurt it. You wont pass smog, and you will throw a code, then again I dont know what emission law's are like in New York.
 
This is the RA concept:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is a Mustang concept:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Either i messed up the search or someone is copying someone again :hmm:

Although would be great if either of them made it into production.

I had no idea Ford was working on something like that. it certainly isn't a mustang replacement so i can't consider it a sports car though. then again, i could be wrong.

that concept is nice, with everything i studied about it, it's a nice "Eclipse" remake.

It keeps your car from smelling like gas fumes. As long as your not getting any check engine light with codes about EVAP system then you don't really need to worry about it.

okay. I never had a check engine light issue related to my EVAP as of yet.

It is for emissions alone, will not help fuel economy, but will also not hurt it. You wont pass smog, and you will throw a code, then again I dont know what emission law's are like in New York.

cool. I hate NYS laws on emissions. never can catch a break. but when a car reaches 26 years of age it's exempt. in New Jersey it's 20 years I believe.
 

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I want the power to move but the control to tame it, but not leave too far from stock. this is why I am trying to consider upgrades around the stock turbo but still open to going with a slightly bigger turbo.

The stock T25 won't go very far, your looking at 250hp max. Not to mention the T25 is notoriously unreliable at stock boost and even worse when pushed hard. The 14b (stock 1g 5-speed turbo) or 16g would be much better for making some power while staying reliable.
 
Removing the restrictor only gives you 1-2 PSI more , If you want to go any higher or want to be able to have control of what you set it at you need a boost controler

Personally I've seen my t25 go to 15 psi regularly
 
A couple of questions I didn't see answered:

Your stock side mount is NOT water cooled.

A "dual tip" and a "single tip" muffler means absolutely nothing. It's all about piping and muffler size. 3" being the most popular and efficient route.

The T-25 is honestly not worth building around. If you want to stay small frame the 14b from manual 1g's, or any varient of the 16g (small, big, evo3) is a great starting place.
These are MHI based turbochargers, which will require a small amount of modifications to run. Nothing major.
The T-28 is an equivalent to the 16g, except it is a direct bolt-on replacement of your stock T-25.

Good luck with your adventure into these cars, just take a lot of time to read all you can about them.
 
Removing the restrictor only gives you 1-2 PSI more , If you want to go any higher or want to be able to have control of what you set it at you need a boost controller.

Personally I've seen my t25 go to 15 psi regularly

So your suggesting that its a good idea not to have boost controller and just modify things a get whatever boost you end up with?
 
The cars have been around a LONG time and just about everything that can be done to them has been done. For a person new to them this can lead to information overload about what mods they need to do to their car. I.E. meth injection, FMIC, dual turbo's, etc etc.

You said you want this as a daily with some umph. You said the car already feels pretty quick to you as is.

I say get a 14b on the car, get a boost gauge and a manual boost controller. Do some research and install these 3 items properly. This will be a nice project that is achievable and significant without being too complicated.

Turn the boost up to 15 and see how the car feels. It will feel fast. Only you can answer if it feels fast enough. :)
 
So your suggesting that its a good idea not to have boost controller and just modify things a get whatever boost you end up with?

It wasn't a suggestion as much as it was a personal example and successful application of my own. Its been tried and tested. A MBC on the stock T25 would be in my humble opinion a small waste of money when you could in fact get 15 psi on a regular basis from removing the restrictor.

Don't forget a good boost gauge. I suggest the AEM digital boost gauge from extremepsi.
 
Lol "the 4g63 has a metal engine" arent all engines metal? Haha dunno if anyone caught that in the first post. The correct answer is "cast iron"

Haha I cought it, but I forgot to mention that one. But if you've ever looked under the hood of any of the new Fords, "metal" seems to be a thing of the past. I wouldn't be surprised if there was an entire engine made of that composite plastic crap here pretty soon. ;)
 
The stock T25 won't go very far, your looking at 250hp max. Not to mention the T25 is notoriously unreliable at stock boost and even worse when pushed hard. The 14b (stock 1g 5-speed turbo) or 16g would be much better for making some power while staying reliable.

I understand what your saying, I felt like getting the stock 1G turbo would give me more turbo lag than I already see with the stock T25 based on what I read on the net. Unless it's just the opposite?

Personally I've seen my t25 go to 15 psi regularly

That sounds nice to me! :thumb:

A couple of questions I didn't see answered:

Your stock side mount is NOT water cooled.

A "dual tip" and a "single tip" muffler means absolutely nothing. It's all about piping and muffler size. 3" being the most popular and efficient route.

The T-25 is honestly not worth building around. If you want to stay small frame the 14b from manual 1g's, or any varient of the 16g (small, big, evo3) is a great starting place.
These are MHI based turbochargers, which will require a small amount of modifications to run. Nothing major.
The T-28 is an equivalent to the 16g, except it is a direct bolt-on replacement of your stock T-25.

Good luck with your adventure into these cars, just take a lot of time to read all you can about them.

Should I go front mount and then water cooled?

I have heard that a lot about the difference in Mufflers, and I will certainly consider going with a 3" pipe, I kinda like the dual tip for looks honestly.

So i can go with the T28 and call it a day then?

and in terms of the stock T25 it has mileage on it clearly with the car being at 170K, should i take it to a specialist and have it "rebuilt"? would doing that breathe a 2nd life into the turbo (granted it's not like it's dying on me) and give it enough pep to handle any stress from upgrades I build around it? or is just a waste of time? I am not sure about turbo rebuilds but I am curious to know the benefits of it.

I absorb information each day, and with the help of this site and thread, I am learning a lot more than I did before.


Lol "the 4g63 has a metal engine" arent all engines metal? Haha dunno if anyone caught that in the first post. The correct answer is "cast iron"

You are correct sir. My "casual" mechanic (he is the guy i go to for the little maintenance things, like tune ups, brake changes etc.) speaks better spanish than he does english, because of this, he just refers to them with an accent, "meh-thal block" it actually just ended up stuck in my head.

When i had my t25 i was boosting it to 18psi, thing had no shaft play LOL, didn't feel like much regiardless,
No fuel cut on 450s either.

I had a home made boost controller out of a 1/8npt t fitting and a ball and spring setup. Worked fine

That sounds nice, what was the mileage of your T25 though? or did you manage to maintain this level to it's highest age with no problems?

The cars have been around a LONG time and just about everything that can be done to them has been done. For a person new to them this can lead to information overload about what mods they need to do to their car. I.E. meth injection, FMIC, dual turbo's, etc etc.

You said you want this as a daily with some umph. You said the car already feels pretty quick to you as is.

I say get a 14b on the car, get a boost gauge and a manual boost controller. Do some research and install these 3 items properly. This will be a nice project that is achievable and significant without being too complicated.

Turn the boost up to 15 and see how the car feels. It will feel fast. Only you can answer if it feels fast enough. :)

my professional background is computer repair and program development, just like with cars, sometimes explaining a ton of tech stuff to people will overwhelm them, I can assure you I came to this forum with the expectation of receiving huge amounts of information being new to my GSX, I am prepared for this ;)

That does sound pretty simple, would the stock intercooler need to go as well to support such a set-up with desirable results?

It wasn't a suggestion as much as it was a personal example and successful application of my own. Its been tried and tested. A MBC on the stock T25 would be in my humble opinion a small waste of money when you could in fact get 15 psi on a regular basis from removing the restrictor.

Don't forget a good boost gauge. I suggest the AEM digital boost gauge from extremepsi.

would there be anything to expect when removing the restrictor? like an occasional check engine light? I figure when you remove MAF sensor you get a check engine light so would that restrictor have a sensor of it's own that'll trip the car's computer?

I have to thank you guys a lot. all of you. all these broad ideas i had for my car and abundance of questions I had are easily being narrowed down to more sensible and possible ideas, I am also learning a bit more than I expected about my car and actually feel more comfortable when i pop my hood because I better understand more of what I am looking at.

my car should be out of the shop in a few days, the vehicle is being painted and i ordered new OEM head and fog lights. after driving it, i hope it performs as it did before the accident and then I will put a blueprint together of what work i will desire to be done to my car. I may even visit the Vinny Ten Racing shop to see what i can do to it.

Seriously, Thank all of you.
 
Honestly. This is all dandy, but Seriously Do all required Maintenance First.

Follow the Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners found in the tech section.

Be realistic about Power Output, EVO 8,9,10 Parts are not interchangeable. (with the exception of the BOV)

Do all your Supporting Mods First, Before upgrading the Turbocharger, You Will not need an FMIC with the T25. (just clean out your sidemount) If you Jump Steps expect Issues. I have never removed the BCS restrictor. I use a Manual Dial a bomb. I have Owned my car since New. Unless you are out Drag racing on the weekends, or autocrossing 350 reliable HP is plenty for the street, and is extremely easy to do if done correctly. Look at the Chiclets in the Avatars. Green is good, red.... you get the picture.
 
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