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General Unfound GSX Questions

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Mitsubishi-Kid

Proven Member
31
0
Jun 25, 2013
Queens, New York
Ok, so I am new to this forum and this is my first post, I am sure that you guys get a lot of questions for Mitsubishi enthusiasts but the questions I have are more for just understanding my car. with my car being stock I'd rather start to understand it before i decide to go modding it.

I have moderate experience with understanding my car I know some things but the more I know the better.

My Questions;

1) When you remove the front cover to the actual bumper and look to the right under the headlight, there is a black boxy looking part that looks like a Kerosene can. I understand that this is a filter but, a filter for what? and how would it benefit my car when i see people who mod the GSX's always seem to remove that part.

2) My Ex-Girlfriend had a 1G Eclipse and her Oil Cooler was neatly yet tightly tucked away, where is my Oil Cooler on my 2G GSX?

a quick back story, I purchased the car for $3,000 from a very nice 50+ year old man, he kept the car in very nice condition i have had it for about a year since, with no problems, check engine light came on once and it was because 1 of my spark plugs went, a tune up fixed it. then sometime later i had a car accident that ruined my cars air intake system. currently it is in the shop being repaired, i made a promise to devote myself to the car so I have spent the money on repairing it like new again, $2,500. I want the car to hold me about 5 years before i am ready for an Evo X.

3) when i purchased the car, i noticed the ending part of the muffler system was well rusted to a point where i found it pointless to have, so i took it off, been driving "muffler-less" since but I want to purchase place the stock double tip muffler on the car again, although a friend of mine in a VW car club has urged me to not do that and to instead buy a 3" End pipe. would there be any benefit to owning an aftermarket single tip exhaust compared to the stock double tip? isn't it stocked double tipped for a reason?

4) When I think back to my car accident I wonder how an Evo would have helped me handle it, by this i mean in the upgraded features of the Evo's AWD system. could I do a AWD train swap off of an Evo or if not can I add features to my GSX's AWD system like my personal favorite, Automatic YAW control?

5) Does anyone know the actual name of the GSX AWD system? kind of like how the GTR's system is called ATTESA E-TS? or is it just a system Mitsubishi designed but did not give a name?

6) a few months back, I went toe to toe with a Subaru STi with my stock GSX, for those of you in or familiar with Long Island New York, the Northern State Parkway is pretty nice when there is no traffic, and well, that was the best street race i could ever take part in, because that STi had me pushing my limit and I had him loosing his edge, friends of mine say that maybe the STi driver was inexperienced and that I shouldn't have been able to keep pace with him like that, I am curious to know how the STi and GSX compare, Stock for Stock. is it THAT much faster than the GSX?

7) I want to install remote start, but i worry of the electronic failures that can come from it, even though the GSX supports this feature are there any recommendations for a reliable remote start product?

8) has anyone seen the warning label in the trunk by the door latch about the key and unlocking? I have been having issues recently with my trunk to where it is a jiggle fight to unlock it with a key and using the indoor lever leads to me having to sometimes hold it while another person lifts the trunk door open and i want to know if this is common or if i have a bad trunk latch release.

9) a lot of the GSX/GS-T Valve covers have come in different colors, was this a stock thing? and where can I find these Valve covers? I am looking for a red one. mine is green.

10) My anti-lock light has been flashing in my dash for some time, the previous owner explained to me that the drivers side wheel has a bad sensor, at times though it goes away and never comes back, a friend of mine told me the sensor could be loose, i checked myself but could not find where the sensor is, can anyone tell me or give an image of where I can find that sensor?

11) The badges on the back of my car that label "GSX" are fading off and personally, I am not fond of that, can anyone tell me where I can get a new set? I have searched but found nothing so a link with purchase price would be nice if possible.

12) is it possible to have sway bars on the top and bottom of the GSX? or do they come top only?

13) does anyone know any new information on the Mitsubishi RA Concept? to me it really is an Eclipse reborn with Evo inspired parts but is Mitsubishi actually going to release it?

14) being dubbed the "bullet proof engine" yet having a meme on the net captioned "4G63, if your not breaking stuff, your not going fast enough" i see they come with a metal block, and I see that after my car accident I was able to drive home but how durable are these engines? I understand that there is a Hybrid version of these engines too? can a swap be done in the GSX with one? my vehicle is currently at 170K miles. if I treat it right, will she continue to hold up? although i spent a lot of money to fix her after my accident, when i do finally get it out of the shop, will it run right?

15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.

I think for now, these are the only questions I have. I am sure more will come in time. I look forward to anyone's answers.
 
Last edited:
have you heard of a gauge you can buy that tells you of your tranny's temp? similar to the turbo gauge? I thought those were around, hot weather here is usually stick and muggy if i keep the tranny as it is, i want to atleast know how she's feeling during my daily driving.

They make temperature gauges for the trans but its not something you would really need.

So far, from everything everyone has mentioned in this thread, I have been liking what I've heard about the T28. The 16G sounds like something i'd want if wanted more than 400 horses.

The 16g is not a 400HP+ Turbo. The T28 and 16G are similar but the 16G flows slightly more. The 16G is more common and more reliable. The 16g needs a few more lines and a j-pipe to install but its not a big deal, it would take maybe an extra 20min to install over T28.

I am aware of the piping work. J pipes seem to be very serious when going front mount and most IC manufacturers will try to sell it to you separately.

A j-pipe is nothing more than an adapter to make the turbo outlet face in another direction. Its just a piece of pipe.

being that I work on computers, i see the IC as a heatsink to a computer, so just like computer fans i am wondering if I can build my own fan to pull heat away from the SMIC and keep it protected from debris. but this is just my mind running wild with ideas.

You should just leave it alone or upgrade to a larger one if the side mount doesn't work for you. You don't need to complicate things with fans or water cooling or anything like that.

You are overthinking a lot of stuff, there is no need to complicate things. These Cars and engines have been around for 20+ years now so most of this stuff has already been figured out for you. Just read the tech section and check out other peoples profiles, journals, and the dyno challenge section.
 
Since you are an AutoMatic. Forget about the Short route Setup. Your Trans cooler Piping, and AC system will not allow for a J Pipe set up. Unless ofcourse you're willing to lose your AC, and remove the Fan assembly. Since Auto's Inherently Take longer to get Moving Due to the Torque Converter needing to Spool up, then Look at Low/Mid range turbo Upgrades. Try to Find a Used FPB28, or Source a New one. Fast Spool, and respectable Power. Ease of Installation, and zero headaches.

I'm Auto, and i Use an FPB28, with a Same side IN/Out FMIC Bottom to top Flow. I have had this set up for about 7 years. If you would Like more INFO feel free to PM for Pics.

You will get Better Performance Street/Strip with a Bit of Tranny Building. IE: Valve Body Kit, and Upgraded End Clutches, For a Huge Impact High Stall Converter.

Use the K.I.S.S. Principle, and you'll be worry Free, and have a reliable Quick car.
 
They make temperature gauges for the trans but its not something you would really need.



The 16g is not a 400HP+ Turbo. The T28 and 16G are similar but the 16G flows slightly more. The 16G is more common and more reliable. The 16g needs a few more lines and a j-pipe to install but its not a big deal, it would take maybe an extra 20min to install over T28.



A j-pipe is nothing more than an adapter to make the turbo outlet face in another direction. Its just a piece of pipe.



You should just leave it alone or upgrade to a larger one if the side mount doesn't work for you. You don't need to complicate things with fans or water cooling or anything like that.

You are overthinking a lot of stuff, there is no need to complicate things. These Cars and engines have been around for 20+ years now so most of this stuff has already been figured out for you. Just read the tech section and check out other peoples profiles, journals, and the dyno challenge section.

You are right. You know what it is, by simply Googling or Binging something like "Eclipse GSX Mods" you get all these different tried and true ideas from Pro to Street racers and Ameteur to Seasoned drivers.

so many options. I'd try them all if I could. I have been talking with somebody about buying a 2nd GSX for me to experiment with but that's a different story.

Since you are an AutoMatic. Forget about the Short route Setup. Your Trans cooler Piping, and AC system will not allow for a J Pipe set up. Unless ofcourse you're willing to lose your AC, and remove the Fan assembly. Since Auto's Inherently Take longer to get Moving Due to the Torque Converter needing to Spool up, then Look at Low/Mid range turbo Upgrades. Try to Find a Used FPB28, or Source a New one. Fast Spool, and respectable Power. Ease of Installation, and zero headaches.

I'm Auto, and i Use an FPB28, with a Same side IN/Out FMIC Bottom to top Flow. I have had this set up for about 7 years. If you would Like more INFO feel free to PM for Pics.

You will get Better Performance Street/Strip with a Bit of Tranny Building. IE: Valve Body Kit, and Upgraded End Clutches, For a Huge Impact High Stall Converter.

Use the K.I.S.S. Principle, and you'll be worry Free, and have a reliable Quick car.

I certainly would not want to loose my AC. I understand it for the racetrack but for me its a must, I'm an average sized guy yet I sweat in heat by just standing still.

I would like some pics if it's not of a bother to you.
 
I wasnt aware there was a big or a normal when it came to t28....

Fp aparently doesnt sell the t28 anymore, can't find it anywhere on the site.

They Don't Sell that Turbocharger any More. Garrett who supplied the OG's stopped producing them. they flow just 40 cfm less than a evo3 16g. were a direct bolt on, and required no special modifications other than supporting mods. If you can find a used one FP will rebuild it (last time i asked). They haven't sold that particular turbocharger for 2+ years.

I purchased it for the low/mid range grunt, and the fact it easily passed Visual Smog in CA.

Old Link, but provides the same info FP's site did. http://www.forcedinductionsonline.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1348
 
Since you are an AutoMatic. Forget about the Short route Setup. Your Trans cooler Piping, and AC system will not allow for a J Pipe set up.


Just to clear this up, this is false in his situation. Being a late model GSX, his trans cooler is run through the radiator. No hardlines or cooler on the passenger side. His evap canister sits there. I can confirm installing the ETS street kit on my own vehicle with little more than removing the evap can. No sniffer in NYS anyway. It fit fine with the A/C. Stuffed a nice size oil cooler in that spot anyway.

Running a small 16g, great J-pipe clearance. It just depends on what your stock trans cooler setup is like. In his case, he'll be perfectly fine.
 
An intercooler doesn't have any water. It keeps the air from getting as hot so it's more explosive. You can't fit as much hot air in the cylinder.

The power output of a turbocharged engine can vary greatly day to day due to this, in my experience with a small intercooler.

Besides trying to get pipes to fit and working in a small engine bay, I think with the right IC kit and some luck, it can be technically easy to install -- but it might take you a good while, being new.
 
@joe while you feel the statement I made was false. Did you install a short route kit with the t25? Or after swapping the turbocharger out for a 16g? The bolt on j pipe has a tighter radius than the slip on t-25/28 passenger side firing outlet.

Even on an early build 95 like mine the transcooler runs through the radiator, the abs block is on the drivers side, as well as hard piping, and fan housings. All these would have made a j-pipe a pita.

We may have different experiences, due to the positioning of the outlet on our snails mine is set up more like stock, yours isn't. While both posts are valid it really depends on what he plans to choose for a TC and what performance goals he hopes to achieve.
 
The only place I know you can get a new Big T28 is gpop. OP I have already linked you to that website. Any other place I'm not aware of.
 
Okay, I have been MIA from this thread for some time now, I was focused getting the car back from the Auto Body/ Collision shop which I did. I won't have a chance to do any mods or upgrades at this point as I ran into some issues with my GSX that caused me to bring it into another mechanic. (the original mechanic ripped me off 2 thousand bucks.)

I am going to list the issues please give me advice on how to fix this..

as a reminder, the car was in an auto accident 8 months ago, the collision mechanic was lazy and short changed me on the repairs he also was very lazy and had my parked in his shop for months before doing any work to it. after an argument he finally gave me my car semi-repaired.

the problems

1) the most major problem I am experiencing is the car will not accelerate past 20mph. it's an automatic but it seems the transmission does not want to shift up, if press the gas pedal all the way down the car will move to 20mph and the remain there while "sputter" like noises come from the engine (sounds like; puh puh puh puh puh puh puh in a fast repeat)

2) my GSX acts like it wants to cut off when i shift from reverse or park the second mechanic looking at my car said he is going to change my fuel filter to see if it's a gasoline issue as the car sat for so long. if the change of the fuel filter fixes this issue which i will know in a few hours, then i guess this can be disregarded.

those are the problems, I actually looked online and people who have my exact same car with the same issue said:

"the 98 GSX can end up in a transmission 'limp mode' where it is stuck in 3rd gear"

how on earth can that happen though?

other things i read about the issue is that my wiring and timing may be off..

timing on what though? the belt???


all i am concerned about is if my transmission is shot. i will be pissed because the first mechanic got $2,000.00 out of me, promised me the car will be nice and left me with shell of what my car used to be.
 
Welcome to owning a gsx where you go broke, Listen i first bought my 99 gsx very clean 3 months ago and i get alot of peer pressure in mod this mod that, dont get me wrong theres nothing wrong with modding it but i see the flip side of it. Say you didnt mod it and kept it stock and maybe you wanna retain the value. Would the car command more value? Ive had offers 8 grand for my car because of condition . Now that doesnt mean it will stop me from modding it. Of course i want 300+ hp but my opinion it must be done tastefully correctly and retain your stock parts because our cars are getting rare every month and you dont see too much gsx being sold on craiglist or ebay, and from what i see most eclipse condition are crappy or modded cheaply or driven like a bat out of hell for most part. Enjoy it for what it is and not too many cars out there has the looks of our eclipse which is rare indeed.
 
Hey guys I have more questions, I have taken all of the advice I received from this forum and have applied it accordingly, I got a little busy as of lately with my job and moving, with some down time, I have come up with new questions and I would like to receive more information on.

Rather than start a whole new tread I wanted to just continue with this one.


With my GSX's overheating issue, it does not "Overheat" but it does run too hot. I changed the thermostat to the 180 degree flow model and it helped but not greatly.
turning the heat on causes the temp gauge to drop to normal, or when i am hitting wind speeds. a Mechanic who looked at my car recommended power washing my radiator because in terms of cooling, my radiator seems dirty at the mouth of the bumper, he also mentioned getting a mesh like material and putting it over the mouth of the bumper, is that something any of you guys here have done?

or should i replace the radiator, condenser, and oil cooler all together?

A new found problem I have had, the car has been idling terribly, it feels like repeating off beat vibrations from the engine. information I have searched up people have said it's the throttle, something about the air flow at the wastegate?? and many other things, but what I want to know is, where should I start in terms of looking for this problem?

another new problem, bringing the car to a sudden dead stop.. the engine turns off entirely.. the last time a car did this to me, it was Cam sensor, could it be the same on a GSX? did the heat issue with the engine cause the cam shaft sensor to break? when i start the engine again it fires up just fine, but i can't apply to much break force when driving because the engine will turn off in traffic.

pumping the break causes the car idle to drop below 1000RPMs and shut of as well. is this an electrical problem? if it helps my anti-lock light has been on recently. at times it flashes other times its solid.

oil leak... common problem but I am so confused about it because the leak is coming out the top by the spark plug wire rim and not out of the bottom. why is that? so far it has not leaked down on to the actual spark plug, i check regularly.

Possible Boost Leak? when I accelerate, the car begins to change from 1st to 2 gear then you hear a strange noise. goes from a simple "rrrrrrrrrrr" noise to a "dadadadadadada" as if the motor is beating at a drum... any ideas?

so far that's all the questions i have for now, i just spent a couple thousand on simple maintenance but I am preparing to drop even more in major engine work so i wanted to know what these issue are so i know where to place my money and ideas here?

thank you guys again for the help.
 
As far as your over heating goes it can be a multitude of things. If your passenger side radiator fan isnt kicking on intermittently then its going to get hot. Your car was hit on that side so its possible something could be wrong from the relay to the fan or wiring to it if its not turning on. I would let your car get up to temp and pop the hood and see if the fans kick on for a while then off. Also a radiator cap could be a culprit. Ive seen on mitsu products that the engine time like to go up as you accelerate when you have a bad rad cap. Those are your first 2 things to check.

As far as your idle and running issues go that to me sounds like a classic case of boost leak. You can make a home made boost leak tester and have an air compressor handy. All you need is a rubber plumbing coupler from a local hardware store that fits the size of your turbo. I think somewhere around 2inch will work. Then grab a cap for your plumbing coupler and a tire valve from a parts store. Drill a hole into the plumbing cap and pull your tire valve through. Clamp your plumbing cap down inside 1 end of the plumbing coupler and then tighten the other end down to the turbo and compress air into the tire valve. Listen for air leaks which im sure you will find. Spray soapy water around your intercooler piping and intercooler and intake manifold. It will help you see the air leaks. Once you have done a boost leak test and report back with no leaks then we can assume its something else and go from there.


Oil leak in the valve cover where the plug wires go? Sounds like a leaky oil cap. The ones they sell at the parts stores arent much better. Try to find an oem (new factory mitsubishi) one. Almost all of my dsms do it so I forget about it haha. Its a common issue.
 
As far as your over heating goes it can be a multitude of things. If your passenger side radiator fan isnt kicking on intermittently then its going to get hot. Your car was hit on that side so its possible something could be wrong from the relay to the fan or wiring to it if its not turning on. I would let your car get up to temp and pop the hood and see if the fans kick on for a while then off. Also a radiator cap could be a culprit. Ive seen on mitsu products that the engine time like to go up as you accelerate when you have a bad rad cap. Those are your first 2 things to check.

My fans kick on the way they are suppose to, but I never did think to check the cap. rather than check it though, i'll just change it to a reliable new one. are there any performance radiator caps I can find?

I agree with you as well because being that my car took a hit on the side I feel like "it's all messed up just change it out" rather than searching for the problem.

As far as your idle and running issues go that to me sounds like a classic case of boost leak. You can make a home made boost leak tester and have an air compressor handy. All you need is a rubber plumbing coupler from a local hardware store that fits the size of your turbo. I think somewhere around 2inch will work. Then grab a cap for your plumbing coupler and a tire valve from a parts store. Drill a hole into the plumbing cap and pull your tire valve through. Clamp your plumbing cap down inside 1 end of the plumbing coupler and then tighten the other end down to the turbo and compress air into the tire valve. Listen for air leaks which im sure you will find. Spray soapy water around your intercooler piping and intercooler and intake manifold. It will help you see the air leaks. Once you have done a boost leak test and report back with no leaks then we can assume its something else and go from there.

I am going to remember this over the holiday break and try it out.


Oil leak in the valve cover where the plug wires go? Sounds like a leaky oil cap. The ones they sell at the parts stores arent much better. Try to find an oem (new factory mitsubishi) one. Almost all of my dsms do it so I forget about it haha. Its a common issue.

it's literally coming out from spark plug wire number 4. the one to the far left toward the air filter. I have looked at my oil cap periodically and there no signs of the oil coming out around it. I learned there are seals around the spark plugs apparently and those have to be changed along with valve cover seal.
 
Welcome to owning a gsx where you go broke, Listen i first bought my 99 gsx very clean 3 months ago and i get alot of peer pressure in mod this mod that, dont get me wrong theres nothing wrong with modding it but i see the flip side of it. Say you didnt mod it and kept it stock and maybe you wanna retain the value. Would the car command more value? Ive had offers 8 grand for my car because of condition . Now that doesnt mean it will stop me from modding it. Of course i want 300+ hp but my opinion it must be done tastefully correctly and retain your stock parts because our cars are getting rare every month and you dont see too much gsx being sold on craiglist or ebay, and from what i see most eclipse condition are crappy or modded cheaply or driven like a bat out of hell for most part. Enjoy it for what it is and not too many cars out there has the looks of our eclipse which is rare indeed.

Thank You, my car gets a lot of attention everywhere i go, and like you i do get the peer pressure of modding it. I am open to modding it, but i want the car to still maintain some of it's originality, know what I mean? Like i'll take the extra horsepower i just want to make sure the car is still "recognizeable".

The only place I know you can get a new Big T28 is gpop. OP I have already linked you to that website. Any other place I'm not aware of.

I do thank you for the links as well, i ordered that oil dipstick and it has been a life saver. The cold weather i had the past few weeks finally took my passenger side door handle, common issue, i already replaced.

Now that the weather is slowly getting nice again on my end, i am about to drop some new money into the car and get it situated. I may record a before and after video as well.
 
15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.


this happened to me in my pontiac vibe, and we continued driving and the sun roof just took flight, like the targa top supra in fast and the furious LOL. turned out to be recalled glue in our sunroof and it was replaced free of charge.

juss saying if you hear air coming through it, it can end up sucking pretty badly
 
15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.


this happened to me in my pontiac vibe, and we continued driving and the sun roof just took flight, like the targa top supra in fast and the furious LOL. turned out to be recalled glue in our sunroof and it was replaced free of charge.

juss saying if you hear air coming through it, it can end up sucking pretty badly

You know 2 months i spoke to Mitsubishi and I was told that my ball joint bearings were up for free recall, i will contact them right now and ask about the sunroof to be sure. Thank you for the info.
 
15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.


this happened to me in my pontiac vibe, and we continued driving and the sun roof just took flight, like the targa top supra in fast and the furious LOL. turned out to be recalled glue in our sunroof and it was replaced free of charge.

juss saying if you hear air coming through it, it can end up sucking pretty badly

Like this?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNu5KomXZAg]12.4 eagle talon letting off because of sun roof! - YouTube[/ame]
 
LOL i hope my sunroof does not go like that.

so i took my vehicle in to Mitsubishi and it seems like I have a bad cylinder, i kind of wondered what that rattling was i always heard in the engine. and recently out of nowhere, my damn transmission began leaking. by the gallons too.

I saw an article on this site of someone mentioning a similar issue.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/442465-fluid-leaking-trans-transfer-case.html

i can't call where my leak is coming from as it happened when i was driving so tranny fluid was splashed everywhere but based on where it lands on the ground when the car is parked, it seems to be coming from the same spot from what i can tell so far.

i think what sucks about that guys thread is no one answered his last question so i am going to leave that repair to the professionals.
 
That is so crazy.

I feel like i may have seen you on the Northern State Pkwy a few time or maybe Grand Central parkway.

my friends have told me they see a car a that looks like mine but when they pull up to it, it's not me. maybe it is you.

I am meeting the expectations of having my GSX running brand new again so yes i will definitely look out for you on the roads in the coming season.
 
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