General Unfound GSX Questions

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

Ok, so I am new to this forum and this is my first post, I am sure that you guys get a lot of questions for Mitsubishi enthusiasts but the questions I have are more for just understanding my car. with my car being stock I'd rather start to understand it before i decide to go modding it.

I have moderate experience with understanding my car I know some things but the more I know the better.

My Questions;

1) When you remove the front cover to the actual bumper and look to the right under the headlight, there is a black boxy looking part that looks like a Kerosene can. I understand that this is a filter but, a filter for what? and how would it benefit my car when i see people who mod the GSX's always seem to remove that part.

2) My Ex-Girlfriend had a 1G Eclipse and her Oil Cooler was neatly yet tightly tucked away, where is my Oil Cooler on my 2G GSX?

a quick back story, I purchased the car for $3,000 from a very nice 50+ year old man, he kept the car in very nice condition i have had it for about a year since, with no problems, check engine light came on once and it was because 1 of my spark plugs went, a tune up fixed it. then sometime later i had a car accident that ruined my cars air intake system. currently it is in the shop being repaired, i made a promise to devote myself to the car so I have spent the money on repairing it like new again, $2,500. I want the car to hold me about 5 years before i am ready for an Evo X.

3) when i purchased the car, i noticed the ending part of the muffler system was well rusted to a point where i found it pointless to have, so i took it off, been driving "muffler-less" since but I want to purchase place the stock double tip muffler on the car again, although a friend of mine in a VW car club has urged me to not do that and to instead buy a 3" End pipe. would there be any benefit to owning an aftermarket single tip exhaust compared to the stock double tip? isn't it stocked double tipped for a reason?

4) When I think back to my car accident I wonder how an Evo would have helped me handle it, by this i mean in the upgraded features of the Evo's AWD system. could I do a AWD train swap off of an Evo or if not can I add features to my GSX's AWD system like my personal favorite, Automatic YAW control?

5) Does anyone know the actual name of the GSX AWD system? kind of like how the GTR's system is called ATTESA E-TS? or is it just a system Mitsubishi designed but did not give a name?

6) a few months back, I went toe to toe with a Subaru STi with my stock GSX, for those of you in or familiar with Long Island New York, the Northern State Parkway is pretty nice when there is no traffic, and well, that was the best street race i could ever take part in, because that STi had me pushing my limit and I had him loosing his edge, friends of mine say that maybe the STi driver was inexperienced and that I shouldn't have been able to keep pace with him like that, I am curious to know how the STi and GSX compare, Stock for Stock. is it THAT much faster than the GSX?

7) I want to install remote start, but i worry of the electronic failures that can come from it, even though the GSX supports this feature are there any recommendations for a reliable remote start product?

8) has anyone seen the warning label in the trunk by the door latch about the key and unlocking? I have been having issues recently with my trunk to where it is a jiggle fight to unlock it with a key and using the indoor lever leads to me having to sometimes hold it while another person lifts the trunk door open and i want to know if this is common or if i have a bad trunk latch release.

9) a lot of the GSX/GS-T Valve covers have come in different colors, was this a stock thing? and where can I find these Valve covers? I am looking for a red one. mine is green.

10) My anti-lock light has been flashing in my dash for some time, the previous owner explained to me that the drivers side wheel has a bad sensor, at times though it goes away and never comes back, a friend of mine told me the sensor could be loose, i checked myself but could not find where the sensor is, can anyone tell me or give an image of where I can find that sensor?

11) The badges on the back of my car that label "GSX" are fading off and personally, I am not fond of that, can anyone tell me where I can get a new set? I have searched but found nothing so a link with purchase price would be nice if possible.

12) is it possible to have sway bars on the top and bottom of the GSX? or do they come top only?

13) does anyone know any new information on the Mitsubishi RA Concept? to me it really is an Eclipse reborn with Evo inspired parts but is Mitsubishi actually going to release it?

14) being dubbed the "bullet proof engine" yet having a meme on the net captioned "4G63, if your not breaking stuff, your not going fast enough" i see they come with a metal block, and I see that after my car accident I was able to drive home but how durable are these engines? I understand that there is a Hybrid version of these engines too? can a swap be done in the GSX with one? my vehicle is currently at 170K miles. if I treat it right, will she continue to hold up? although i spent a lot of money to fix her after my accident, when i do finally get it out of the shop, will it run right?

15) The Sunroof: when i reach a certain proper highway speed or I am making a slight turn at a proper highway speed, i hear a "pop" from my sunroof and then the sound of air passing the seals of the sunroof, continuing at that speed will cause the passing air on the sunroof to make the sunroof rattle, is it my chassis being old that maybe bends slightly? or are the sunroof joints loose from age? the sunroof does not leak or have trouble opening or closing generally but when enough g-force from highway speeds are gained, the sunroofs seems to slightly loosen the seal from air pressure and then rattle the whole ride. can I tighten this joint myself and how? most of my friends say it has to be a loose joint somewhere.

I think for now, these are the only questions I have. I am sure more will come in time. I look forward to anyone's answers.

 

[synthetek]

I understand what your saying, I felt like getting the stock 1G turbo would give me more turbo lag than I already see with the stock T25 based on what I read on the net. Unless it's just the opposite?

If you are seeing Lag with the T25 than there is something wrong with it or you have a boost leak or something. The only good thing about a T25 is how fast it spools. There isn't Much lag on 14b or 16g and the little that there is will be worth it for the power it makes compared to the T25.

and in terms of the stock T25 it has mileage on it clearly with the car being at 170K, should i take it to a specialist and have it "rebuilt"? would doing that breathe a 2nd life into the turbo (granted it's not like it's dying on me) and give it enough pep to handle any stress from upgrades I build around it? or is just a waste of time? I am not sure about turbo rebuilds but I am curious to know the benefits of it.

Most people don't bother to rebuild a stock T25, the money it would cost you could go towards a better turbo.

 

[Leonthefaded]

I understand what your saying, I felt like getting the stock 1G turbo would give me more turbo lag than I already see with the stock T25 based on what I read on the net. Unless it's just the opposite?

STM: OEM MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION IX MR BLOW OFF VALVE | 1545A001
If you are going to use the stock intercooler piping setup this would be the BOV to use, not the 1G bov. Although the 1G BOV would be the BOV suggested by most of the member on this forum. If you have the money, buy this one, it is superior. Don't cheap out.

That sounds nice to me!



Should I go front mount and then water cooled?

I have heard that a lot about the difference in Mufflers, and I will certainly consider going with a 3" pipe, I kinda like the dual tip for looks honestly.

So i can go with the T28 and call it a day then?

and in terms of the stock T25 it has mileage on it clearly with the car being at 170K, should i take it to a specialist and have it "rebuilt"? would doing that breathe a 2nd life into the turbo (granted it's not like it's dying on me) and give it enough pep to handle any stress from upgrades I build around it? or is just a waste of time? I am not sure about turbo rebuilds but I am curious to know the benefits of it.

I absorb information each day, and with the help of this site and thread, I am learning a lot more than I did before.

G-Pop Shop :: Uncategorized :: Mitsubishi/DSM Turbos
Rebuilding the T25 is a complete waste of money. If you have the money and want some bang for you buck and want a NEW replacement turbo and do not want to modify you current setup. Go with the T28 and call it a day. Its direct bolt on. You can use all of you exsiting water and oil lines, although I do recommend using a SS oil feedline and getting new OEM water lines. Doing a full 3inch exhaust system is a big jump IMO, especially if you are not monitoring you AF ratio, haven't changed out that clunky air intake box for an Injen or "Injen-Style" intake pipe, sealed up all of your boost and vac leaks and oil leaks (oil cap)



That does sound pretty simple, would the stock intercooler need to go as well to support such a set-up with desirable results?

Your stock SMIC will go far but only so far. I personally ditched that thing as soon as I could. I gave you the above reference to the Evo MR BOV, but honestly if you just get the Punishment Racing FMIC with the stock turbo setup, they automatically send you a J-pipe so if you decide to go with a 14b or a 16g later down the line your still good. I believe you'd be better off. You'd be getting a pretty solid knock-off greddy, but then again if you go with the other NGR performance BOV or get a authentic Greddy RS BOV youre set.



would there be anything to expect when removing the restrictor? like an occasional check engine light? I figure when you remove MAF sensor you get a check engine light so would that restrictor have a sensor of it's own that'll trip the car's computer?

No check engine light, the restrictor has nothing todo with your MAF

I have to thank you guys a lot. all of you. all these broad ideas i had for my car and abundance of questions I had are easily being narrowed down to more sensible and possible ideas, I am also learning a bit more than I expected about my car and actually feel more comfortable when i pop my hood because I better understand more of what I am looking at.

my car should be out of the shop in a few days, the vehicle is being painted and i ordered new OEM head and fog lights. after driving it, i hope it performs as it did before the accident and then I will put a blueprint together of what work i will desire to be done to my car. I may even visit the Vinny Ten Racing shop to see what i can do to it.

Seriously, Thank all of you.

No problem man, we'd be pretty shitty members if we didn't take the time to help someone who wasn't at least trying to help themselves. And to ad one do remember to take care of the maintence, you said you had a mechanic and that's good. Taking care of oil leaks and what not are a big thing. One thing you have to watch out for yourself are boost leaks. I highly recommend getting a couple of these items if you haven't already.
New OEM Oil Cap - Evo 8-9

New OEM Dipstick – 2G DSM Turbo

Also if you decide to do you own timing, which I'm nto sure if you are due for or not. Here is where I get my timing components from
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page18.html
I've been trusting my engine with parts from this guy for years. Cant complain with his shipping speed or prices. He doesn't BS you either. He also has a long line of gaskets and engine rebuild items.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

My milage on the t25 was 115,000 miles. I then upgraded to an scm6152 , and how hx40

I'm pretty sure you can send your t25 off to FP to be converted to a t28 also.

 

[RedTalonTsi]

Where the stock sidemount is going be a noticeable bottleneck if you are on a 14b or t28 is repeated extended boost situations. Like multiple passes at a drag strip or heavy acceleration on straights of an auto X event.

If two otherwise identical 14b cars, one with stock SMIC, one with FMIC, made one pass at a dragstrip chances are they would finish the first pass with the same time. If they went back around for a 2nd hot pass, the FMIC car would win. The stock IC gets heat soaked easily, and once its soaked it takes longer to cool down, FMIC, not so much. That's really the difference.

If you are driving to work with a mitsu turbo car, t25, 14b, t28, 16g, and you want to punch it up the on-ramp for your commute once a trip, the side mount is fine, the FMIC would make no noticeable difference, except it would slightly hurt the spool up time.

 

[WES_393]

I understand what your saying, I felt like getting the stock 1G turbo would give me more turbo lag than I already see with the stock T25 based on what I read on the net. Unless it's just the opposite?

Sure, your going to have a little more lag with slightly larger turbos. But were talking hundreds of RPM, not even a thousand. My Small 16g would hit 25psi+ at 3,000rpm (with a rather aggressive E85 tune). Laggy is the last word I would use to describe that turbo, and it gave more kick in the pants than a T25 ever could.

 

[Leonthefaded]

I was worried about lag when up grading to a fmic on a stock turbo but ice noticed no lag and my response is almost instant

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Sure, your going to have a little more lag with slightly larger turbos. But were talking hundreds of RPM, not even a thousand. My Small 16g would hit 25psi+ at 3,000rpm (with a rather aggressive E85 tune). Laggy is the last word I would use to describe that turbo, and it gave more kick in the pants than a T25 ever could.

Wtf? 3000rpm? I can't remember how well the 14b responded on my gst but it seems laggy as hell inmy gf awd in like 2nd & 3rd. Seriously like 2nd it doesn't hit targeted 18#s till 3500+ sometimes 3rd is around 3500 too. Engine is stock except for turbo, link, Injectors, and a hallman, oh and all hard pipes. Its freaking slow and idky.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

^souds like a boost leak or SOMETHING that is almost what i was getting 20psi on the hx40 .55 bep i got full spool by 4k

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

^souds like a boost leak or SOMETHING that is almost what i was getting 20psi on the hx40 .55 bep i got full spool by 4k

Well its at my shop now so I'll check that. Can't remember ever doing it so may be.
I know my 14b on the gst was alot more responsive.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

My milage on the t25 was 115,000 miles. I then upgraded to an scm6152 , and how hx40

I'm pretty sure you can send your t25 off to FP to be converted to a t28 also.

Converted? Is it a price comparable to a buying a new turbo? otherwise, I am down to go the conversion route. sounds like there isn't much hassle behind it.

Where the stock sidemount is going be a noticeable bottleneck if you are on a 14b or t28 is repeated extended boost situations. Like multiple passes at a drag strip or heavy acceleration on straights of an auto X event.

If two otherwise identical 14b cars, one with stock SMIC, one with FMIC, made one pass at a dragstrip chances are they would finish the first pass with the same time. If they went back around for a 2nd hot pass, the FMIC car would win. The stock IC gets heat soaked easily, and once its soaked it takes longer to cool down, FMIC, not so much. That's really the difference.

If you are driving to work with a mitsu turbo car, t25, 14b, t28, 16g, and you want to punch it up the on-ramp for your commute once a trip, the side mount is fine, the FMIC would make no noticeable difference, except it would slightly hurt the spool up time.

So then with keeping the stock intercooler, if I wanted to make up for some of the heat absorption, can I get a "spacer" (forgot the proper term but basically opening a hole behind the SMIC) to allow air coming in from the side of the bumper straight out the back toward the tire? would that give the SMIC a little more cooling efficiency?

a friend of mine came across some images on the net of a guy who, placed on 3 Intercoolers. 1 Front Mount and 2 Side Mount, it's the most bogus set up I've seen yet.

Sure, your going to have a little more lag with slightly larger turbos. But were talking hundreds of RPM, not even a thousand. My Small 16g would hit 25psi+ at 3,000rpm (with a rather aggressive E85 tune). Laggy is the last word I would use to describe that turbo, and it gave more kick in the pants than a T25 ever could.

You have a point there. If it's only a difference by hundreds I can live with that. bigger turbo's use more oil right? would i need to fill up beyond my liter limit or would it just be more regular oil changes/flushes that normal? a co-worker at my job told me about adding more to the 2.0 limit i forgot what he called it but i can maybe build the engine out to 2.1 or 2.2? i doubt it would make a difference though and I didn't care much to do that stuff so i wasn't too interested in what he was saying.

I was worried about lag when up grading to a fmic on a stock turbo but ice noticed no lag and my response is almost instant

Somebody told me about that, did your gas pedal feel like it had more weight with the bigger IC on stock turbo?

Wtf? 3000rpm? I can't remember how well the 14b responded on my gst but it seems laggy as hell inmy gf awd in like 2nd & 3rd. Seriously like 2nd it doesn't hit targeted 18#s till 3500+ sometimes 3rd is around 3500 too. Engine is stock except for turbo, link, Injectors, and a hallman, oh and all hard pipes. Its freaking slow and idky.

Well its at my shop now so I'll check that. Can't remember ever doing it so may be.
I know my 14b on the gst was alot more responsive.[/QUOTE]

The lag is more noticeable in the GSX than the GS-T your saying? can that be blamed on the added weight of the GSX? Or to the fact that all four tires have to move in unison so the differential won't allow the back tires to just be dragged out by the front ones?

you guys have no idea how interesting this stuff is to me. If i knew all of you in person we'd hit a bar, drinks on me.

Honestly. This is all dandy, but Seriously Do all required Maintenance First.

Follow the Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners found in the tech section.

Be realistic about Power Output, EVO 8,9,10 Parts are not interchangeable. (with the exception of the BOV)

Do all your Supporting Mods First, Before upgrading the Turbocharger, You Will not need an FMIC with the T25. (just clean out your sidemount) If you Jump Steps expect Issues. I have never removed the BCS restrictor. I use a Manual Dial a bomb. I have Owned my car since New. Unless you are out Drag racing on the weekends, or autocrossing 350 reliable HP is plenty for the street, and is extremely easy to do if done correctly. Look at the Chiclets in the Avatars. Green is good, red.... you get the picture.

Thank You, That dial a bomb you mentioned, where can I find that? with the supporting mods I've been wondering, can place full McPherson struts and shocks on all 4 points? I feel like those would give me the balance to handle to WHP once upgraded as well as the ability to take bumps without much worry being on NY roads.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Look on fp's website, it's a compressor upgrade and i believe poasibly a turbine and turbine housing upgrade. Not too sure, ita on their website under upgrades.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

If you are seeing Lag with the T25 than there is something wrong with it or you have a boost leak or something. The only good thing about a T25 is how fast it spools. There isn't Much lag on 14b or 16g and the little that there is will be worth it for the power it makes compared to the T25.



Most people don't bother to rebuild a stock T25, the money it would cost you could go towards a better turbo.

so then I'll take my car to a specialist to check for boost leaks. this is why I wanted to dyno my car stock before modding. seeing where the vehicles are and implementing it's fixes with my desired upgrade path, I figured it was best to do that so I know where my vehicle stands with it's high mileage.

Look on fp's website, it's a compressor upgrade and i believe poasibly a turbine and turbine housing upgrade. Not too sure, ita on their website under upgrades.

I'll do that, thank you.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Adding more oil doesn't change your displacement... You have to change the stroke of your crank to go from a 2.3 or use a 4g64 to de stroke to a long rod 2.1.Big turbos use the same amount engine oil as any turbo you fill only 4.5qts, how you feed it and the pressure/volume it recieves is the change with a larger turbo, usually you just have a -4AN feed with a restrictor and a larger drain (fp has all this) use the restrictor recommended for either their bb or jb turbos.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

No problem man, we'd be pretty shitty members if we didn't take the time to help someone who wasn't at least trying to help themselves. And to ad one do remember to take care of the maintence, you said you had a mechanic and that's good. Taking care of oil leaks and what not are a big thing. One thing you have to watch out for yourself are boost leaks. I highly recommend getting a couple of these items if you haven't already.
New OEM Oil Cap - Evo 8-9

New OEM Dipstick – 2G DSM Turbo

Also if you decide to do you own timing, which I'm nto sure if you are due for or not. Here is where I get my timing components from
4G63T Mitsubishi 2.0 DOHC Turbo Engine Rebuild Parts
I've been trusting my engine with parts from this guy for years. Cant complain with his shipping speed or prices. He doesn't BS you either. He also has a long line of gaskets and engine rebuild items.

Seriously, you have some awesome external links. You just reminded me I had been wanting to replace my Oil dipstick . thank you for this.

do you know where on earth the dip stick is for the Tranny? i just remembered also that I have no clue where it is, and i searched my engine bay like crazy.

watch it have been in front of my face this whole time though.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Manual trans doesnt have a dip stick. If oil drips out of the fill hole it's at the right level, if not add more til it drips (car on level ground)
Not sure about an auto.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

Adding more oil doesn't change your displacement... You have to change the stroke of your crank to go from a 2.3 or use a 4g64 to de stroke to a long rod 2.1.Big turbos use the same amount engine oil as any turbo you fill only 4.5qts, how you feed it and the pressure/volume it recieves is the change with a larger turbo, usually you just have a -4AN feed with a restrictor and a larger drain (fp has all this) use the restrictor recommended for either their bb or jb turbos.

If i went with a slightly bigger turbo but not far from the T25 size, would i need to change the stroke then?

Manual trans doesnt have a dip stick. If oil drips out of the fill hole it's at the right level, if not add more til it drips (car on level ground)
Not sure about an auto.

you just reminded me that I never did make that clear,

to everyone in this thread, My GSX is an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION model.

I used to drive manual cars but again, being in NY i never saw the need for it because as I open my car up before i can crack 80MPH i have to downshift due to some type of traffic, so when I decided to get an Eclipse I opted for Automatic.

and boy do my friends have all kinds of jokes towards me about it.

 

[synthetek]

If i went with a slightly bigger turbo but not far from the T25 size, would i need to change the stroke then?

No, You don't need to worry about any of that. You should stick to the stage 1 upgrade path.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

No, You don't need to worry about any of that. You should stick to the stage 1 upgrade path.

Yeah I was going over the upgrade path guides on this site and Stage 1 seems to be just right for what I want to achieve.

I assume any higher and i'm only asking to kill my transmission type.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I dont think you get the stroke thing, plus your co worker sounds like an idiot. Lol it's a major motor build, talking complete deconstruction and machine work. Its not for you. i have a 60mm hx40(flows almost 4 times the t25) and I'm on a 2.0, there are people
Making 1000hp on a 2.0 you just dont even need to worry about it.

my trans died around 400awhp btw just for refrence (5 speed). Sounds like your not up for anything major. Plus autos are going FAST now days anyway, for your small goals, theres not much you have to worry about

 

[Leonthefaded]

Your automatic transmission dipstick is located tucked away between your fuse box and your water outlet. Just above the tranny bell housing. Can't miss it

NP about the links I got plenty of time to paste em in bro. I do a lot of online trolling for parts and what not.

 

[WES_393]

Converted? Is it a price comparable to a buying a new turbo? otherwise, I am down to go the conversion route. sounds like there isn't much hassle behind it.

The T28 supposedly flows 36 lb/min @ 22psi. The Small 16g flows 38 lb/min at 21psi. The T28 is a "bolt-on" turbo, but the 16g is so simple to install that I wouldn't even consider it a downside.

The lag is more noticeable in the GSX than the GS-T your saying? can that be blamed on the added weight of the GSX? Or to the fact that all four tires have to move in unison so the differential won't allow the back tires to just be dragged out by the front ones?

All 4 wheels are free to rotate at different speeds (to a certain extent). Otherwise you wouldn't be able to turn without the drivetrain binding and skipping the tires. Just ask anyone with a welded center or rear differential.

Thank You, That dial a bomb you mentioned, where can I find that? with the supporting mods I've been wondering, can place full McPherson struts and shocks on all 4 points?

Your car already has fully independent suspension. It's not your typical Macpherson setup though. If I'm not mistaken, the technical term is a multi-link double wishbone design. Regardless, it's independent suspension.

And lastly, there's nothing wrong with an Auto trans. They can actually hold a considerable amount of power with a few mild upgrades. They also break less driveline parts, don't spool between shifts, and can be just as much "fun" with a shift kit.

 

[Leonthefaded]

I think the downside to the 16g compared to the T28 would be having to use an install kit. And the fact that you would be looking for either a new MHI 16g vs a used rebuilt one or a knockoff vs a new T28 that does not require an install kit and is bolt on and go. I'd say its all up to the OP and what he is willing to invest or put forth money and time wise.

 

[RedTalonTsi]

So then with keeping the stock intercooler, if I wanted to make up for some of the heat absorption, can I get a "spacer" (forgot the proper term but basically opening a hole behind the SMIC) to allow air coming in from the side of the bumper straight out the back toward the tire? would that give the SMIC a little more cooling efficiency?

a friend of mine came across some images on the net of a guy who, placed on 3 Intercoolers. 1 Front Mount and 2 Side Mount, it's the most bogus set up I've seen yet.

Opening up the airway for the stock SMIC is fine. I drove my car like that for years. The 3 intercooler set-up is indeed bogus, a waste of space, inefficient, and would be a breeding ground for boost leaks.

Used to be popular to put a supra sidemount intercooler in the stock sidemount location. The supra sidemount would "just" fit with some modification and was about twice size of the stock. I have ran that and can vouch for it being a viable alternative although these days if you want to replace the stock SMIC you might as well just a get a FMIC with the hard pipes.

Keep in mind that if you replace the SMIC you have to replace all the piping from the turbo to the throttle body. Keep that in mind when shopping around.

 

[Mitsubishi-Kid]

I dont think you get the stroke thing, plus your co worker sounds like an idiot. Lol it's a major motor build, talking complete deconstruction and machine work. Its not for you. i have a 60mm hx40(flows almost 4 times the t25) and I'm on a 2.0, there are people
Making 1000hp on a 2.0 you just dont even need to worry about it.

my trans died around 400awhp btw just for refrence (5 speed). Sounds like your not up for anything major. Plus autos are going FAST now days anyway, for your small goals, theres not much you have to worry about

oh okay, yeah i don't think i need to go all out on a build like that. I've seen one guy achieve 1,200HP on his Eclipse, honestly, to see somebody in NY with that i'd have to ask where do they expect to go with all that.

I hate traffic here so much.

have you heard of a gauge you can buy that tells you of your tranny's temp? similar to the turbo gauge? I thought those were around, hot weather here is usually stick and muggy if i keep the tranny as it is, i want to atleast know how she's feeling during my daily driving.

Your automatic transmission dipstick is located tucked away between your fuse box and your water outlet. Just above the tranny bell housing. Can't miss it

NP about the links I got plenty of time to paste em in bro. I do a lot of online trolling for parts and what not.

yep, i believe I have seen that thing by the fuse box as you mentioned. I always left it alone because i'm the type of person where if I don't know, I don't touch . but i have been wanting to check my tranny fluid for some time now maybe throw in a fresh batch if its needed.

The T28 supposedly flows 36 lb/min @ 22psi. The Small 16g flows 38 lb/min at 21psi. The T28 is a "bolt-on" turbo, but the 16g is so simple to install that I wouldn't even consider it a downside.



All 4 wheels are free to rotate at different speeds (to a certain extent). Otherwise you wouldn't be able to turn without the drivetrain binding and skipping the tires. Just ask anyone with a welded center or rear differential.



Your car already has fully independent suspension. It's not your typical Macpherson setup though. If I'm not mistaken, the technical term is a multi-link double wishbone design. Regardless, it's independent suspension.

And lastly, there's nothing wrong with an Auto trans. They can actually hold a considerable amount of power with a few mild upgrades. They also break less driveline parts, don't spool between shifts, and can be just as much "fun" with a shift kit.

So far, from everything everyone has mentioned in this thread, I have been liking what I've heard about the T28. The 16G sounds like something i'd want if wanted more than 400 horses.

I forgot about the suspension system I had, It's a fairly durable one too. I just wasn't sure how it would act under stress if i reached stage one HP.

The one thing i am lucky about it, which i read on this site, is that the auto trans is less likely to crank walk. I am aware that it was fixed around the 98 model year though, but it's still a thought that give me piece of mind.

I think the downside to the 16g compared to the T28 would be having to use an install kit. And the fact that you would be looking for either a new MHI 16g vs a used rebuilt one or a knockoff vs a new T28 that does not require an install kit and is bolt on and go. I'd say its all up to the OP and what he is willing to invest or put forth money and time wise.

I am going look into that turbo.

Opening up the airway for the stock SMIC is fine. I drove my car like that for years. The 3 intercooler set-up is indeed bogus, a waste of space, inefficient, and would be a breeding ground for boost leaks.

Used to be popular to put a supra sidemount intercooler in the stock sidemount location. The supra sidemount would "just" fit with some modification and was about twice size of the stock. I have ran that and can vouch for it being a viable alternative although these days if you want to replace the stock SMIC you might as well just a get a FMIC with the hard pipes.

Keep in mind that if you replace the SMIC you have to replace all the piping from the turbo to the throttle body. Keep that in mind when shopping around.

I am aware of the piping work. J pipes seem to be very serious when going front mount and most IC manufacturers will try to sell it to you separately.

I guess I'll just open up some air flow for the stock IC until i can grab the FMIC. would I be ok in situations where water/snow/dirt splash up from the tire toward the IC though? or is it nothing to worry about?

being that I work on computers, i see the IC as a heatsink to a computer, so just like computer fans i am wondering if I can build my own fan to pull heat away from the SMIC and keep it protected from debris. but this is just my mind running wild with ideas.

If you guys don't mind it, I'd like to post some photos of my car, before and after the accident. when it's out of the shop, I am willing to post photos again.

The way the accident happened, some guy in a highway in Brooklyn was swerving through lanes, either he was indecisive or sleepy/drunk/stupid in my effort to avoid him, I misjudged a turn I was in (i was not fully familiar with this highway as they have made changes to it during construction) i believe the vehicle began to understeer and in the turn the guy still chose to "flow" into my lane and our bumpers kissed, but it was that kiss that cause my car to bounce back off of him and into a wall, then it bounced off the wall and due to wet roads, the car began to aggressively spin about 3 times down the highway until I calmed down and started thinking.

I gripped my wheel pumped the brakes and steered against the direction my car was spinning until i came to a stop. The driver of the other car just rolled over to the shoulder as i spun out. he was ok, and I was ok thankfully for the seat belt, but my car was sputtering like crazy i later found it was due to the air system taking damage. I was able to drive it home though, very very very slowly and cautiously.

I made a promise to myself to treat this car good no matter the price which is why it's in the shop now getting repaired. $2,500.00 to get her back to what she was previously. I even cried in disappointment that she got damaged like that. The guys insurance company has refused to pay for some damages but i chose to not stress it.

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[Archer Fabrications]

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