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gears still grinding!! please help!!

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Zultane

Proven Member
54
0
Jun 11, 2013
denver, Colorado
Alright. When I bought the car, it grinds into gears, and the clutch drags. It moves perfectly fine if the car isn't running. But when it's running, it won't go into gear unless I force it. Also, if I step on the clutch, even in neutral, it bogs the engine, and will kill it. I've searched these forums, along with ones on different sites.

I have changed the master cylinder, and the slave cylinder. That didn't do anything. So this whole weekend, I spent time, and replaced the clutch. After seeing the old clutch, I was convinced I finally figured out the problem, as the old pressure plate was worn, and clutch disc had a crack. I got excited and put it back together. Only to find out, its doing the same exact thing.

During my search, I found something about missing engine to trans bolts being missing. That this could cause it to grind. It even had a picture of one that may have been missing. It's on the backside of the engine. Next to the rear motor mount, right above the speedometer cable, right below the starter. The guy had a missing bolt there.

Immediately to myself I thought "I never even took a bolt out from that area, maybe mines set up differently" so, I stuck my phone back in there, turned on the flash, and snapped a picture. Sure enough, I don't have a bolt there, and apparently, it wasn't there when I bought it. And I can physically see a gap between the two.

My questions, could this be the cause of my clutch drag that I've been fighting since I got the car? (I don't drive it, it's been on stands). And, if so does anyone know the size of this bolt? Or where I can get it? I just want to drive the damn thing...

I can try and figure out getting a picture on here.

Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks!
 
Did you try to spin the trans while it was out of the car? And as far as the bolt it could be throwing things off. Go to ace and find a metric bolt that matches. The size is probably 1.5-1.25 thread and the bolts probably 20-25mm long and mine has a 12mm head with a washer.
 
no, I didn't Try and spin the trans... I didn't even think about it. I just stuck it inn the corner while I replaced the clutch.
 
Ya I would have tried to shift it in all gears, to ensure its not the trans. Which in your case sounds like it may be. Did it seems like the trans went back in easy, did you use a clutch alignment tool prier to installing the trans?
 
please do not try and force it into gear, you will ruin your syncrhos. I would do this:
-check master/ slave cylinder for leakage(if that checks out)
-bleed system and slave cylinder
-check the Clutch pedal assembly for wear** A Must for years 90-94
-check clutch fork position
 
Yes there NEEDS to be a bolt back there. I will find you the length real quick.

Also did you bleed BOTH the master and the slave? When you crack the bleeder on the slave and hold the clutch pedal down you are ONLY bleeding the master. To bleed the slave- crack the bleeder, compress the slave (by pushing on the clutch fork), close the bleeder, release the clutch fork and allow the slave to fully extend. It should only take 2-3 times to do this. BUT if you're missing that bolt and can clearly see a gap, that is your biggest issue right there.

Edit: Bolt size is M8x1.25 and 60mm long. As per: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ngth-pitch-location-part-number-pictures.html
 
Tyeler18 - THANK YOU!!! I went and bought that bolt. It worked!!!

Its still a little rough into 3rd, and occasionally reverse. I Took it up to the autozone I've been going to all weekend, to show Freddy (the worker) that its running good. He wanted to see me take it down the street.

First gear was good, second gear shifted good... After i was in boost for a few seconds,, the car dies, and wouldn't start again. I checked fuel pressure was good. I pushed on all my spark plug wires, #2 "popped" back on. I was able to start it. And limp it home. Miss firing really really bad... Coil pack? CAS? Or maybe plugs and wires?
 
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