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gear shift problems

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lauj2gdsm

20+ Year Contributor
326
2
Jan 16, 2005
stockton, California
I just installed a new clutch, tob and resurface flywheel. also bleed the system. the problem that im having is that when i try to go into first gear it will grind unless i pump the clutch a few times and more or another way is that i put it in another gear ( any 2nd-reverse) then i can just shift right into 1st no problem. whats wrong here??
 
It wasn't doing it before the clutch job? Did you make sure you filled up the transmission fluid? What type of fluid did you use? Also a common mistake is not bleeding the clutch line enough.

Hope this helps!
 
well i bought the car with blown valve seals with the head off the engine and the guy that sold it to me just recently rebuild the transmission about 3months before he parked it for a year. he showed me the paper work for the transmission too. so idk but pretty sure its new rebuild because when i took out the engine and transmission there was a brand new exedy stage1 in there like his reciept says too. maybe i can try adjusting the clutch pedal and cross fingers it works and yes i re bled the system right after i posted this thread. helped a bit but often it starches and wont let me into first until i pull it into another gear first.
 
What about the transmission fluid? Are you 100% sure that its full and what kind did you use?

If everything else checks out then it was either a crappy rebuild or it wasn't really rebuilt, they may have just stuck a new clutch in there. 1st and 2nd gear syncros commonly go out on these transmissions. You could try switching to BG syncroshift 2 synthetic transmission fluid depending on what you are currently using.
 
You need to watch this like 5 times. Learn it.





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what kind of clutch? i had ashifting problem for 2yrs and tried everything, including sending my freshly built trans to shep and dogbox and both said it looked great. if its an act2600 with a sprung disk either put a solid disk in or chang to a diffrent clutch. The 2600's fingers have to travel alot deeper then a 2100 to disengage so the fingers hit the springs on the disk and continue to spin the disk
 
Check the location of the clutch fork and how it sits in the bell housing. It needs to be in the middle or slightly closer to the engine. This will ensure full disengagement and prevent clutch drag. Thats how you determine whether or not you need extended slave rod or shimming on the pivot ball.
 
Check the location of the clutch fork and how it sits in the bell housing. It needs to be in the middle or slightly closer to the engine. This will ensure full disengagement and prevent clutch drag. Thats how you determine whether or not you need extended slave rod or shimming on the pivot ball.

Hey I crawled under the dash to find that adjustment rod but I don't see it anywhere. Where is it?
 
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