The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

gauge pod cluster install question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DSMsOwnYourV8

15+ Year Contributor
370
0
Jan 4, 2008
Denver, Colorado
I'm trying to install a gauge pod cluster on my 2g, and my question is, do I have to take off the dash to run the wires to the cluster? I've been trying but I don't really see any way around this...
 
There should be TWO screws that are screwed in UPWARDS up top. You'll want to lower the steering column and pop out the bezel gently with a flathead or some other tool. From there it's pretty much self-explanatory. I guided my wires behind the column. You'll see other wires going through there. I hope that helps!
 
I installed that gauge cluster bracket also. I routed the wires left to right along the bottom piece of it. It's a little tight...I have to route it's front screws through slowly as to not catch the bundle of wires but it's functional. I also had to dremel off the gauge's back bracket screws to make it fit flat. I guess it might depend on which 2 1/16" gauge you go with.
 
Let us know how it goes and take some pics if you can. I am thinking about getting one of those along with my 2 pod A pillar.
 
Remove the two screws (which are marked in red in the first picture). Then carefully remove the gauge bezel by pulling straight out on it. (On the bottom, there are 2 clips, marked by the blue arrows.) Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the bezel way from the dash if necessary.

77791d1195100694-how-light-gauge-cluster-leds-bezel.jpg


77787d1195100247-how-light-gauge-cluster-leds-cluster.jpg


I have a water temperature gauge in the right hole. I just ran the wires to the right of the gauge cluster and then down to behind the radio. You can do this easily by removing the vents/bezel above the HVAC controls (which will give you access to the right side of the cluster so you can grab the wires) and then the center console/radio so you can feed them down behind the HVAC controls. As far as the left side, I believe you can get to them from under the dash. I haven't put a gauge there yet, but this is how I have all my wires ran for my A pillar gauges and they are all accessed from under the dash (looking up from where the pedals are).

The bezel you linked to looks to be the same one I have, which means there aren't two clips on the bottom any more. Two screw holes replace the clips. You will have to find some way to secure the bottom by using screws.
 
Exactly as stated above! That is exactly how I Did mine. Boost guage on left. Makes for a almost straight shot to the steering shaft rubber boot to run the Hose through. And if you are putting in a O2 guage in. Put it on the right side, as the wires will be long enough to reach the ECU harness. Makes it a Very easy Install. :thumb:
 
...there aren't two clips on the bottom anymore. Two screw holes replace the clips. You will have to find some way to secure the bottom by using screws.
Here's how I solved the screws instead of bottom clips problem:
You need two self tapping screws about 2.0" long. (I used sheet rock screws :coy:) Touch up with black paint if you don't have black screws. Cut small rectangles of sheet metal (now called blind nuts) a little larger than the back of the hole the original clip went into. Drill a small hole in the center of the blind nuts you made and thread the screws into the holes. Remove the screws and hold the blind nuts behind the clip holes. Thread the screws back into the blind nuts. While holding the screw and blind nut in the correct position use a fast curing glue like Hot Glue or 5min Epoxy to secure the blind nuts in place.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

When the glue has cured solid back out the screws you were holding in place. Install the new bezel with gauges. Put the original screws back into the top two holes and your new screws in the bottom holes and blind nuts you made.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I installed this gauge bezel a few years ago ago using hot glue. As you can see it's holding together very well. Interior temperatures don't come close to enough to melt hot glue.
I also used hot glue to hold the gauges in the bezel. They never come loose even in the hot Mojave desert. When my boost gauge took a crap I was able to peel out the hot glue without damaging the bezel and hot glue the new gauge in place.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah I took the stock cluster off pretty easily, but it was just figuring out where to run the wires because it seemed like a PITA to even find a spot where I could run wires behind the cluster... I'll get it figured out.
 
Well there's another route to run the wires that I discovered if behind the column isn't "stealthy" enough heh. To the left of your cluster there are a few switches - side view mirrors, foglights, and cruise control. If you pop out the set you'll see an exposed hole where their wires run. If you feed your wires directly down there, it will run passed the rheostat and end up under the dash near your feet. Just another option although it does seem a little more difficult.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top