Gauge Pod + Boost gauge install question

[Phippsp]

Ok I have done alot of searching but I need some specific information answered that I could not find on here or vfaq.com

On this link from vfaq : http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

It says trace the fule pressure line with blue strip on it. I have done this it says you will want to tap into the line right below it that leads to the center of the manifold im dumb founded here I can't find anything related to this going to the manifold or even a tapable line below the fuel line with the blue strip on it.

Next question I have Autometer C2 boost gauge and it has 2 wire hook ups on the back the 12v and the Ground wire. Most places that I have read about hooking up the 12v to the dimmer switch it says you need to splice two wires from the wire harness to make it work. Well the way the gauge looks I will only need to run 1 12v power wire somewhere.

Thanks!

 

[FORMONTOYA]

When hooking up the boost gauge....use the feed for the fuel pressure solenoid. Just follow the FPR vacuum line back to the firewall to the solenoid, the other side goes to the intake manifold. Tap into the one from the FPS to the intake mani:
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/solenoids.htm

I hook up my gauge lighting to a relay controlled by the lights. It doesn't dim, but then again I run my instrument lights wide open.

 

[tom04841]

Look at your fuel pressure regulator. See the vac line hooked on top? Follow that to the firewall....there is a solenoid. There is another vac line coming off of it that goes to the intake manifold. This is the line you want to tap for your boost gauge. Hope this helps

 

[Phippsp]

Ok ok I think I been looking at this backwards . I been tracing the line from the solenoid to the regulator and looking from there. I want to trace back to the firewall then go from there. Im going to go check this out now ill repost if I found it.

 

[Phippsp]

Ok just ran out and did the trace and yes I found it I Was looking at it backwards. Thanks for the help on that one.

Now about the electrical. I want it to come on when the headlights turn on. So should I should splice the headlight wire?

 

[brute]

I did to the dimmer switch as well. It comes on when the lights come on flawlessly. It does not dim, but I don't want it to. This was the easiest solution in my case. With a little electronic experience, you could even make a dimmer solely for the gauge. But that's another story. Just go into one of the lights that turns on when you turn your lights on. Dimmer switch would be easiest.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Now about the electrical. I want it to come on when the headlights turn on. So should I should splice the headlight wire?

You could do it that way as 1 or 2 gauge lights will not draw much power.

However, the safest and correct (IMO) way would be to have a 12v power source that is controlled by a relay that is activated when the lights come on. Relay activation draws a very minute amount of power and will be a lot safer as most wiring in a car is about "at the limit" already. And you have to plan ahead, are you just going to have 1 gauge? 2, 3 or more? Something to consider.

 

[Phippsp]

I just went to radio shack and got a volt tester for the dimmer switch to find the right wire. Also got some cool wire connectors which require 0 spliceing just put the wires in it and clamp and there you go. Got 20 amp wire I believe to do the setup now Im just waiting on some beer and mabye a friend to join in on the fun.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Also got some cool wire connectors which require 0 spliceing just put the wires in it and clamp and there you go.

Hot taps are a cool idea, I'll bet the guy that invented them is still broke as hell.

The only thing you need to be aware of is to use the correct connector for the wire size. If you use a connector that's too large it will not make a good "electrical" connection.

 

[MrBoxx]

For my boost gauge light, I tapped the power wire that is connected to the cigarette lighter light (not the actual lighter part, just the light.) The gauge lights up when the lights turn on, but doesn't dim. I don't really want it to anyway, though. Just another option for you.

 

[Phippsp]

Ok well after all that I got it done. I hooked it up to the dimmer but does not dim long story. Also at the same time I did the intake mod for the stock car took out that long air restrictive peice and put a 3" PVC pipe in instead.

My results come to this please give opinions if this is right or wronge about what im going to say.

When car is idle the vac is at 19
When I push it it does to about 11-15

Also after doing the intake mod with the 3" PVC pipe it almost seems there is no blow off valve sound at all when I shift. Usally I could get it to make a sqeak or a very faint psst. But now when I shift it seems to make no sound at all im not complaining about no sound it does kinda feel better running when I push it but is this normal?

 

[brute]

Does it make a fluttery noise instead of the normal blow off valve noise? Can you take a picture of the PVC pipe job you did?

 

[Phippsp]

Give me a second and ill post it up. Im done driving for the night so tomorrow ill see about the noise give me a minute or two here.

 

[Phippsp]

Here hope this shows you a good bit.

 

[Phippsp]

Ok sorry about all these post after the other but let me try this picture thing again.

Before

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After

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Overview

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[brute]

Did you remember to reconnect the vacuum hose that goes to the BOV?

 

[Phippsp]

Yes all three hoses that go onto the intake are on. And the Hose back to the BOV is there so its recurculating. Not sure really what this could be.... But I do know there is something different in sound by alot and its def not maken the BOV sound more distinct or louder.

 

[brute]

Does it flutter?

 

[Phippsp]

Im not sure what you mean flutter. But im not 100% remembering what it sounded like it just kinda didn't make any noise. Only time I heard it now is when I was at a stop light and I revved up to about 5.5 and let off it kinda made a sqeak noise.

 

[MrBoxx]

It's fairly hard to get the BOV to let off loudly when there's no boost, such as free-revving. If there's no load on the engine, it won't tend to make a lot of boost, and sitting at a stop light, it's not under much load. Some cars might be different, but I've never really been able to get the BOV to sound off with just revving at a stop.

In addition, when I cut the dump tube extension in the intake, the BOV got noticeably quieter. My theory is that instead of the air charge being propelled through a narrowing plastic pipe and hitting the metal compressor wheel, the air charge goes through a short section of fairly wide pipe and mingles with the incoming air charge, decreasing in pressure and velocity, thereby not making as much of a "whoosh" noise. Even though the VFAQ states that it may increase the BOV sound, I haven't heard of anyone that came up with this result. Most people report the same thing I just mentioned. In any case, as long as all the vacuum lines are reconnected correctly, none of them leak, and there's no flutter indicating compressor surge, you should be okay, unless I've forgotten something.

 

[Phippsp]

Alright well that does make sense. The big difference was the sound being quiet. But other then that it ran fine possible even better.

When installed the boost gauge when I hooked it up to the back of the gauge the little metal peice called the ferrul gorment that holds the nylon hose steady on the gauge broke so I used medical tape and wrapped it around the nylon tube so I could not come loose I think its working so far. But my reading is this

Idle 19 vac
Accelerating under boost 11-15 psi
Deccelerating it goes to about 25 vac.

Does this sound about normal for complete stock?

 

[brute]

Yea, that sounds great. Sounds like you have a healthy motor.

 

[MrBoxx]

When installed the boost gauge when I hooked it up to the back of the gauge the little metal peice called the ferrul gorment that holds the nylon hose steady on the gauge broke so I used medical tape and wrapped it around the nylon tube so I could not come loose I think its working so far.

Everything sounds good, but I would only suggest changing the nylon tube that came with the gauge to standard rubber vacuum line. The only reason I say this is because the nylon line tends to kink, which may lead to cracks. To convert to a rubber vacuum hose, you'll need a barbed fitting that screws on the back of the gauge (extremepsi used to sell them, but I don't know if they still do) a few feet of vacuum line (available at any auto parts store) and a plastic vacuum tee (also at any auto parts store. Since you've already got the installation done, you don't have to take my suggestion, but if you want a little piece of mind that you're using a more durable line, you could switch.

As brute mentioned, the boost/vac numbers sound fine. Happy boosting!

 

[eclispestar]

Hey guys where is the best place to go thougth the firewall so the boost line can go?

 

[360glitch]

Hey guys where is the best place to go thougth the firewall so the boost line can go?

Most people go through the grommet the speedometer cable uses. You can just cut a slit into the grommet and go through there. The whole is pretty big so there is plenty of room.