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fuel pump help needed!

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210 dsm

15+ Year Contributor
268
24
Dec 6, 2007
san antonio, Texas
ok heres my situation, im looking into upgrading my fuel pump and i found a pump that performs well and is very cheap ,but i need some information on it before i actually buy it. the issue is our cars normaly utilize a turbine type fuel pump and the pump im interested in is a rollervane type. so other then that the new pump is in every way a direct fit. FYI its a Airtex pump that i can get for 90 bucks on my employee account at O'Reilly Auto Parts. and a one year warranty :D. this thing flows up to 70 gallon per hour. the part number is E8248 and can be viewed on the Airtex web page.
so basically all i need to know is there any down sides to using a rollervane style pump? i honestly dont know the difference in a turbine and rollervane but thats why im asking. is it not even something that matters?




its going to be between this one or a 93-98 supra pump for like 280 bucks (up to 95 Gallon per hour).
 
thanks to all off you for helping. its been resolved though. turns out the test results from when i tested my fuel pump satisfied me but not my car! LOL.

i warranted it out at my work for a new one and is started right up. haha thats funny no that i think of it. i remember always driving on low fuel ($$) so im pretty sure thats why it took a crap.
 
I'm having issues with my 1990 gsx and could really use some good help. this isn't the first time i reached out for help on this specific problem I'm having ,but i have to start this again because what i thought was fixed actually wasn't. go figure :idontknow:. and just FYI I'm the type of guy who just asks for help with little bull shit and I'm only calling out for help because ive done all i could on my own already and i still cant get my car to turn on. I'm just telling you this so any body who dose help knows there not wasting there time and that any thing that leads to fixing my car will be very much appreciated. the issue is simple: there's no power going to the pump. the reason and/or the fix (to me) isn't so simple.

first time i had this problem i realized there was no sound coming from the pump when i tried turning on the car. sometimes it would start but only stay on for like two or three seconds then shut off. and when that would happen the pump would make a very quite hum. i tested the pump with it out of the tank and it turned right on with it connected directly to the battery. i ended up warranting out the fuel pump from work (o'reilly auto parts) and it started right up and stayed on. nice and loud humming from the pump. i let it warm up and then did a compression test. after i was done i connected the fuel pump back up to the harness put the spark plugs back in and went to sleep. the next day it dosen't start. not even any sound coming from the pump. I'm guessing whats happening is the pump is getting burnt out. like its getting over powered or something and its frying the pump. I'm pretty sure if i go warranty it out again it will start ,but will shortly after fry the dam thing again. but if its a wiring issue from the pump, ignition switch, or main relay i need to know how the pump wiring and power supply works with the ignition switch and/or how to completely bypass it all and install a universal ignition switch and run it from the battery to the pump.

here is the list of things ive already crossed of the list and what ive summed up:

main relay: swapped it with a used but known to be good one. still clicks.
ECU: bought a used one. same year model and transmission , but it is socket epromed.
fuel pump: as you already know probably burnt out.?.
ignition switch: I bought a brand new one.
fuses: all fuses are good. all though i did pop one 30A fuse that's mounted on the positive terminal while trying to figure this out ,by keeping the key on the start position so much i guess. i don't know if that has anything to do with it.
tanks got gas. i got spark at the coil and plugs. compression test results: from cylinder 1 to 4... 105, 20, 108, 113. now i know this really isn't relevant to my current problem and that the numbers are horrible ,but that's another issue that i DO know about and can and will fix later. right now i need to get my blown motor to turn on:).i also had the FPR vacuum line hooked up directly to the intake and to the stock solenoid. both ways didn't make a difference.
fuel pressure regulator: switched out with a used ,but known good one.

if you want to know about the rest of my set up just check out my profile or if what you want to know is not there just ask me.
i'll be checking for responses regularly and will be hoping for a DSM wiseman to pop his head in here to sort me out. please if you think you can help just drop a post. i just need to get my baby back on the road. thanks for reading.
 
Battery, or fuel pump wiring would be your best bet. You should look into doing a fuel pump rewire -- hard-wiring the fuel pump to the battery with the proper wiring/fuse/relay for safe and reliable function. As for the battery, this could be an issue if it is a dying/worn out battery.

How did the spark plugs look? Did they smell like gasoline whatsoever?

If you have a healthy battery, good wiring, and still not getting fuel, then I would be looking at the fuel filter (if it is totally clogged or of unknown age/mileage) and the fuel pump.

Good luck!
 
Do you have a volt meter to check the voltage at the pump? That 'not right' hum/buzz your getting could also be from a lack of power. As your probably aware, most electric motors don't move until there's enough power going to them, and sometimes make odd humming noises when there's not enough power going to them. Another thing to try would be to bypass the stock wires. Using jumpers of some sort, connect the grounds of the harness in the trunk (the side of the connector that goes to the tank) to a good ground in the trunk. If it starts like that, then you have a grounding issue. If it has the same problems, then try jumping the pump positive wire from the relay terminal to the tank side of the harness for the wire that goes to the pump.

The idea is basically bypass the standard grounds and see what happens. If that doesn't work, then you want to try running from the relay to the pump, using as little stock wiring as possible. I'm pretty sure you have this narrowed down to electrical well enough to mess with troubleshooting it as such.
 
is all your wiring good no breaks or cut lines
this im not sure. but ive been asking myself the same question. i have a multi meter and will be willing to try some tests but my repair manual only shows how to test the pump via the service connector pigtail on the firewall. but i cant tell witch one it is.

I would probably do the rewire mod, which will give it its own power and ground
this is my current interest right now. i looked on the tutorials and vfaq's and cant find a basic walk through on how to do it. if its on DSMtuners i want to see a link.

Battery, or fuel pump wiring would be your best bet. You should look into doing a fuel pump rewire -- hard-wiring the fuel pump to the battery with the proper wiring/fuse/relay for safe and reliable function. As for the battery, this could be an issue if it is a dying/worn out battery.

How did the spark plugs look? Did they smell like gasoline whatsoever?

If you have a healthy battery, good wiring, and still not getting fuel, then I would be looking at the fuel filter (if it is totally clogged or of unknown age/mileage) and the fuel pump.

Good luck!
the battery's in great condition its a fairly new optima red. and when the car used to be running the plugs always smelt like gas. I've always had that problem (running rich). i used the MAF-T to up my injector CC's to even out the richness ,but now of course they don't smell at all because the pump isn't pressurizing the lines in order to spit fuel in there. as far as the gas filter. it could be time for a new one, but a bad/clogged filter wouldn't cause the pump not to receive power from the battery. I'm stumped.:hmm:

Do you have a volt meter to check the voltage at the pump? That 'not right' hum/buzz your getting could also be from a lack of power. As your probably aware, most electric motors don't move until there's enough power going to them, and sometimes make odd humming noises when there's not enough power going to them. Another thing to try would be to bypass the stock wires. Using jumpers of some sort, connect the grounds of the harness in the trunk (the side of the connector that goes to the tank) to a good ground in the trunk. If it starts like that, then you have a grounding issue. If it has the same problems, then try jumping the pump positive wire from the relay terminal to the tank side of the harness for the wire that goes to the pump.

The idea is basically bypass the standard grounds and see what happens. If that doesn't work, then you want to try running from the relay to the pump, using as little stock wiring as possible. I'm pretty sure you have this narrowed down to electrical well enough to mess with troubleshooting it as such.
cool!, I'll try running my own ground to the chassis from the ground on the pump. and if it dosent work then i have to try jumping the the relay right?... ,but if i can here the relay clicking dosent that mean its getting the power on its own?


I'll go try grounding the pump myself and we'll see what happens.


thank you guys:thumb:
 
First thing you want to do is to make sure everything is hooked up, then test from the black w/white stripe wire to one of the black (no stripe) wires in while someone else tries to start the car, you're looking for ~12 volts with the pump hooked up. If there's less than about 10, then something is shorting/grounding out.

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