Fuel pump assembly ugh more problems

[ilco187]

Ok so all the studs broke and so did the metal line that goes through the top of the assembly it broke right off flush with the assembly. so i been searching around on fuel pump assembly modifications but dont see anything. i just wanna know if there is anything like some fittings of some sort i could pickup from lowes to fab this thing up like drill the hole out and get a fitting in the middle with jam nuts on the inside and outside with a 90 degree fitting on the top of the assembly da da da da etc. pics would help me in some ideas.

ugh this damn car

 

[Usatuff]

I can probably post pics of mine tomorrow. It involved drilling, a few AN fittings, and lots of SS line. As for the broken studs, I welded threaded rod in it's place.

 

[ilco187]

Yeah thanks if you could that would help give me some ideas.

 

[Usatuff]

Hatch is frozen shut but I can tell you the pieces and get pics:

Parts:
Earl's 983206 Earl's AN Adapter Bulkhead Nuts & Fittings
Earl's 592406 Earl's AN Adapter Bulkhead Nuts & Fittings
JEGS Performance Products 100021 JEGS AN Hose End Fittings - Blue/Red
-6 an to straight barb
Regular Fuel Hose
I also used Stat-O-Rings instead of crush washer

I drilled out where the hard line went into the fuel hanger to fit the -6 an bulkhead fitting. Stat-O-Rings on each side of the hanger. Then the Jam nut. Then the -6 an fitting to straight barb attaches to the bulkhead pointing down towards the pump. Then connect the straight barb to the pump with regular fuel hose. Put the 90* 16 an fitting on the top of the fuel hanger. SS line from the tank to the filter. Done. Will look something like this but with only 1 pump and 1 fitting http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/full_blown_dual_pump_hanger_1g_dsm.jpg

STM | 90-99 DSM FUEL TANK TO RAIL KIT there's this too

 

[ilco187]

Thanks man

 

[Usatuff]

No problem! ill try to crawl through the car and get it tomorrow for ya to look at

 

[LKWTSI]

suffered the same pain when I did mine.

Here's a couple pic's of how I did mine. I'll eventually go to the AN fittings but at the time I needed the car back on the road and this worked great and hasn't leaked yet. All the parts were bought at Lowes and Autozone.

You'll also have to have some way of drilling out the old studs that snapped and through drilling them and mounting machine screws in place of the stud and get JB weld on them to stop them from falling back in to the tank or get the tank out and drained and have somebody competent in welding to weld the machine screws back in.

Good luck and PM if you want me to send the exact steps as it's too long for me to type out in this reply.

 

[ilco187]

^^^ thats exactly what im looking to do, what did you do inside the tank to the fuel pump. if you wanna pm me you can any info you want.

i was just gonna grind all the studs flush and just use self tapping screws idk if thats a good idea or what.

 

[Memphetic]

Ironically, this just happened to me about 10 minutes ago. Go rust!!

 

[99gst_racer]

More pictures and other ideas: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/370847-fuel-sending-unit-fitting.html

 

[Memphetic]

BTW, you all wonder why I prefer to work on my 3/S with 60k miles... The nuts on the top of the bulkhead just disintegrated as soon as I put the socket on them. Apparently have to drop the tank to grind them off...

EDIT: A much safer way of doing this, and an all around better way that will end up having you do less work, is to use PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench/whatever on the nuts and use a vise grip to remove them. They aren't torqued very much, just stuck. Much better.

 

[DSM Jeff]

This is how I did both of my 1g's.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

-6 bulkhead, 2 stat-o-seals, nut, union, weldable -6 fitting drilled out to accept the stock tube (tube frozen, fitting heated and pressed in)

 

[Memphetic]

Why not just go this route: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151999165-post4.html and use hose clamps to secure the pump to the assembly and a rubber hose from the pump to the bottom of the nipple?

 

[DSM Jeff]

I just don't like the idea of a rubber hose. Seems cheap to me. I've seen rubber hose break down over time. I don't believe its ment to be submerged either. I also prefer actual AN fittings. The way I came up with just seems like a more proper way.

 

[MY1GDSM]

What about options for -8an ??? Anyone?
Seems it's harder to find the parts to go bigger to anything like all these Ideas...

 

[ilco187]

More pictures and other ideas: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/370847-fuel-sending-unit-fitting.html

hey thanks that does help me with some ideas

This is how I did both of my 1g's.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

-6 bulkhead, 2 stat-o-seals, nut, union, weldable -6 fitting drilled out to accept the stock tube (tube frozen, fitting heated and pressed in)

i like that, i might have to try that

Why not just go this route: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151999165-post4.html and use hose clamps to secure the pump to the assembly and a rubber hose from the pump to the bottom of the nipple?

thats what i had in mind, simple, cheap and easy


also what kind of hose does the stm kit use i know its steel braided but what kind of rubber hose like a standard type? cause i wanna make my own supply and return lines but need to know what type of hose i can get to hold up from like a lowes store, im even gonna tap my fuel rail to use lowes brass fittings.

 

[DSM Jeff]

Lowes is for home improvement, not an auto parts store. I knew dsmer's were getting cheap but come on man, do it right. Its fuel we're talking about, not water.

 

[ilco187]

Well i just figured i could get some hose that can hold 100 psi or so and it would be ok, but the more i think of it im just gonna buy the stm kit. or if you know of any other sites its cheaper than stm.

 

[DSM Jeff]

Places you could try would be Summit Racing or Jegs. Even places on Amazon you can find stores selling hose cheap. I would also stick to more name brand on the fittings, Russell, Earls, Aeromotive. Some cheaper ones or non brand name I've seen some poor feed back.
I used all Earls line and fittings. My set up wasn't the cheapest as I went with black fittings and the highest rated fuel line. I also went with a FuelLab filter and relocated it under the car.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Not to mention I bulkheaded the return in the tank. Stock location. There is a tube inside the tank to send the fuel back near the pump and to the bottom (rather then dumping at the top of the tank) So I used a AN to pipe fitting with aluminum tube.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hope this helps ya.

 

[Memphetic]

Heh, we're talking about my 93 here that I essentially got for free - I could care less about the car as long as it's running. OLD rubber hoses can be broken down by gasoline - the new ones don't suffer the same fate. Research. If all else fails, I'm swapping the engine into a 2g shell in the spring, so it doesn't exactly have to last forever, otherwise I would probably weld.

 

[DSM Jeff]

The car pictured above is my winter beater. Built only to put up with the winters in CT. I had my return gas line break so I went braided stainless. I also had stainless hardline made up for my brakes. Car stays parked spring-fall.
I've seen people use various types of rubber line with mixed results. I've also read about fuel lines not being ment to be submerged. There are special types of line that can be submerged all the time but I know a few people who don't seek those.
I set my car up the way I'd like and am merely offering idea's to the OP as well as others as these threads pop up all the time.

 

[ilco187]

The car pictured above is my winter beater. Built only to put up with the winters in CT. I had my return gas line break so I went braided stainless. I also had stainless hardline made up for my brakes. Car stays parked spring-fall.
I've seen people use various types of rubber line with mixed results. I've also read about fuel lines not being ment to be submerged. There are special types of line that can be submerged all the time but I know a few people who don't seek those.
I set my car up the way I'd like and am merely offering idea's to the OP as well as others as these threads pop up all the time.

are you dsmrook from talk, that car looks familiar to the rooks white bi*** build thread. i can tell from the lines and the white painted underside.

but yeah im just gonna wait for tax money and get a full line kit, i would hate to be on a long drive and a line break.

 

[Memphetic]

This is what I ended up doing:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

BTW, in-tank lines are exactly how my (and other peoples') dual pump dual feed system for the VR4 is done:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DSM Jeff]

are you dsmrook from talk, that car looks familiar to the rooks white bi*** build thread. i can tell from the lines and the white painted underside.

but yeah im just gonna wait for tax money and get a full line kit, i would hate to be on a long drive and a line break.

That would be me. I was on this site before I got my nickname, Rook.
I would say you can run what you want. But just make sure your lines are fuel injection rated and can handle the pressure needed. Also be sure when routing it, you may sure its secure and if theres a sharp edge, insulate it.

Memphetic- I myself have used hose for intank pumps. Being into these cars for 14 years and spending some time at a shop I'm no stranger to it. We contacted a supplier who recommended some hose because we've pulled pumps where someone used who knows what and seen issues.
I took my route because it was what I wanted. I've also been contacted a few times about what I did. Theres something for everyone. I just recommend people getting the right hose.