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Front Strut Tower Bar..Where??

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gtbread77

10+ Year Contributor
131
0
Jul 17, 2010
windsor, Colorado
Ok any body know of any strut tower bars for the 1g's, I really don't auto cross or any thing i just like the looks of them. So i looked through all the sites vendors and nobody has one, only one i can find online are the megan racing ones, they just look cheap to me and i want something a little different. Anybody know of anywhere else that has them thanks.
 
I'm not positive if DC Sports makes bars for the 1g however it's one of the most solid designs for out vehicles that I've encountered so far. Also, I know you stated you don't AutoX or the like but for us AWD users, a rear bar will make more of a difference than the front bar.
 
I'm not positive if DC Sports makes bars for the 1g however it's one of the most solid designs for out vehicles that I've encountered so far. Also, I know you stated you don't AutoX or the like but for us AWD users, a rear bar will make more of a difference than the front bar.

A DC Sports bar is nice, but I never have seen one for a 1G, which sucks. I had one on my GST, all one piece, thick bar. The only problem I had was it had a small chip and started rusting. Lightweight, but stronger than aluminum. I just can't say most people will notice the difference between a Megan or that.
 
I have 2 sets of Cusco strut bars in stock right now. I also have access to Whiteline bars but don't have any in stock for a couple months.

Have any pictures for the two sets? Curious to see how they look in general.


Mike, there is a vast difference between an adjustable bar compared to a solid bar.
 
Here's the Cusco front bar on my GVR4... I'll look for the installed pics of the Whiteline bar on my 1G.
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And a picture of the Whiteline front bar... Sorry I couldn't find an installed picture.
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Don't suppose you have a larger picture?

I'm not disagreeing with you Mike, on the car and driving, the average person may not notice but off the car, there is a very big difference between them. The non solid piece is flexible and all bendy.
 
Don't suppose you have a larger picture?

I'm not disagreeing with you Mike, on the car and driving, the average person may not notice but off the car, there is a very big difference between them. The non solid piece is flexible and all bendy.

Agreed. Personally I recommend the DC bar, but I would suggest people relocate their battery and use the 420A version because it is in all honesty a better bar.

I will say though, while the Megan offers flex points from not being one piece the bar itself is very thick and solid, the pictures are so misleading. Let me know if you want a picture of it.
 
Agreed. Personally I recommend the DC bar, but I would suggest people relocate their battery and use the 420A version because it is in all honesty a better bar.

I will say though, while the Megan offers flex points from not being one piece the bar itself is very thick and solid, the pictures are so misleading. Let me know if you want a picture of it.

If the charcoal canister is removed, you can drop the battery instead of relocating it which would scare a lot more people to do.

I had a Megan and another cheap-o bar before and on the ground it was flexing with pressure and I did not like that at all.

A 3 point+ design is better than a 2 point but I'll go with nothing until a solid bar is found, which is what i did.
 
If the charcoal canister is removed, you can drop the battery instead of relocating it which would scare a lot more people to do.

I had a Megan and another cheap-o bar before and on the ground it was flexing with pressure and I did not like that at all.

A 3 point+ design is better than a 2 point but I'll go with nothing until a solid bar is found, which is what i did.

If someone ever made a bolt on solid 3-bar design for our cars, I would buy 5 in a heartbeat.
 
Didn't RRE used to sell a "hardcore" bar that bolted to the firewall?

Also, is there no way to run the DC-2 (420a bar) without moving the battery?
 
Also, is there no way to run the DC-2 (420a bar) without moving the battery?

You can run it with the battery in place. It's just the bar closest to the firewall is either very close or touches the positive terminal. I wouldn't rely on a rubber terminal cap and electrical tape to solve the issue either.
 
Here's the Cusco front bar on my GVR4... I'll look for the installed pics of the Whiteline bar on my 1G.
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And a picture of the Whiteline front bar... Sorry I couldn't find an installed picture.
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What's your price on the cusco and what color are the ones you have ?
 

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I got that same one about 6 or 7 years ago, it looks like they've changed the mounting points a little though. It's a cheap bar (on sale for $39.95 right now) but it's held up well on my car. Here's a current pic, keep in mind this sucker has been under the hood since like 2004 and it's still shiny with no rust.

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Didn't RRE used to sell a "hardcore" bar that bolted to the firewall?

They used to. Nowadays they don't even sell a front strut bar for 1gs.

Here is a sweet custom made 1g bar:
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Didn't RRE used to sell a "hardcore" bar that bolted to the firewall?

*Cough*Cough*

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And yes it was a complete pita to install it LOL...

And yes I was dumb back in the day....that I tee'd into the bov line...I changed my ways a long time ago....
 

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This is my D3 designs front STB. It attachs to 2 bolts on each tower and by 2 hoops to the wiper "valley".

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I would like to eventually add a plate for better mounting in that area.
 

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I am actually looking for a matching set for the front and rear.
 
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