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Fresh Rebuild Just broke in knock and now everything is bad?

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garputo2

10+ Year Contributor
99
0
Jan 17, 2010
Walla Walla, Washington
I put my 500 miles in and started hearing a knock I am using 8:3:1 wiseco pistons acl bearings new crank manley rods everything was done by machine shop. I put the oil pump on and balance shaft delete kit. I filled the pump with vaseline I had great oil pressure and everything was running like a top. Using a mitsubishi 16 g turbo running stock everything. What went wrong I think its a machine shop error just wanted to get some opinions.. forgot to mention pulled pan off and all the rods are loose there is some brass bearing shavings and also crank play back and forth this is a 7bolt block.
 
Everything was suppose to be stock as the crank was new. I had them do all the work complete so I was assuming they would do there job but the guy had honed the block before I gave him the pistons then I dropped the parts off at the shop and he installed everything in 3 hours which makes me suspect that we have some error somewhere in installation. He never gave me a build sheet of any measurements just told be that everything fit good.
 
I'd contact them since they did the build since you are noticing stuff. Put the pan back on and call them up and say you think you have rod knock and excessive crank play. They should replace everything for free as it's their error.
 
most shops around us wont warranty 4 cylinder builds..

put the pan back on and tell them that you found shavings while doing an oil change. and hope they honor there work. gl

-drew

I wouldn't goto a shop that wouldn't warranty their own work. All engines run and operate the same way wether it's 3, 4, 6, 8 etc. cylinder. They all have rods, cranks, pistons, bearings, oil and torque specs. This is excluding the rotary of course :p

If they didn't honor their work and there was a problem I would contact the BBB and possibly file a law suit if nothing was resolved.
 
I wouldn't goto a shop that wouldn't warranty their own work. All engines run and operate the same way wether it's 3, 4, 6, 8 etc. cylinder. They all have rods, cranks, pistons, bearings, oil and torque specs. This is excluding the rotary of course

If they didn't honor their work and there was a problem I would contact the BBB and possibly file a law suit if nothing was resolved.

in no way would i either, i completely agree with you on that opinion. but im just giving out information that i know is true in VA. 4cyl, and v6 are not warrantied by three shops around me, only V8's are..

thats why my motor is going to PA for machining and then put together by brad brooks..end story

anyways to the op hope it works out man, just like liquidx said if they don't honor it threaten to contact BBB
 
in no way would i either, i completely agree with you on that opinion. but im just giving out information that i know is true in VA. 4cyl, and v6 are not warrantied by three shops around me, only V8's are..

thats why my motor is going to PA for machining and then put together by brad brooks..end story

anyways to the op hope it works out man, just like liquidx said if they don't honor it threaten to contact BBB

That's straight horse poo! I don't know why they wouldn't warranty 4 or 6 cylinders especially since there is less to potentially fail. Maybe because they are known to rev higher :aha: yeah, no. Doesn't make any sense at all. I'd actually want talk to them and find out why and then kick the owner out the door for being a retard and unsure about his work. Ghey.
 
That's straight horse poo! I don't know why they wouldn't warranty 4 or 6 cylinders especially since there is less to potentially fail. Maybe because they are known to rev higher yeah, no. Doesn't make any sense at all. I'd actually want talk to them and find out why and then kick the owner out the door for being a retard and unsure about his work. Ghey.

haha have fun
 
in no way would i either, i completely agree with you on that opinion. but im just giving out information that i know is true in VA. 4cyl, and v6 are not warrantied by three shops around me, only V8's are..

thats why my motor is going to PA for machining and then put together by brad brooks..end story

anyways to the op hope it works out man, just like liquidx said if they don't honor it threaten to contact BBB

Where in VA are you at? Most machine shops will stand behind there work where I'm at. But most Reputable machine shops will give you a build sheet and it will take them longer than 3 hours to put a motor together??? That's not even enough time to check all the clearances and assemble, that's enough time to throw all the parts together. If I paid a machine shop to do my assembly I would have asked for a build sheet, the first sigh should have been that he honed the cylinders before he had the pistons.
 
Sounds like all new bearings, turning the crank, and flushing all the oil passages at the very minimum. You should avoid driving much so your not circulating shavings through the turbo and eating up your oil pump. Also good machine shops typicaly wont bore a block without having the pistons that are to be installed.
 
Yeah its a crappy situation, Do you think this could be a crankwalk situation? I have already tore it down to the block its ready to go in. There honestly is not that much play in it but I went the extra road on this 7 bolt because I felt if it was done right there would not be a issue. I am a student at the local college and they recommended this shop but they can be known to do go work and bad work. The owner is really old put it all together in about 3 hours or less probably didnt do something right. I just picked up a 1995 awd talon that I wanted to drop the motor in but was in pretty rough shape from sitting for so long now thats in my garage and getting done but my dilemma is that I have over 1300 in the block and really dont want to spend another 1300 to build the 6 bolt but we will see what the shop will do on there bad work.
 
is it all the rod bearings?? how about the main bearings? have you checked out your head where the cams are?? could be an oil pump failure
 
I am not sure yet I brought it to the machine shop they pulled one of the bearings and it seems good. But they stated that the bearing looked like it was not pre lube enough and I know I did it so its very questionable..
 
I am not sure yet I brought it to the machine shop they pulled one of the bearings and it seems good. But they stated that the bearing looked like it was not pre lube enough and I know I did it so its very questionable..

Was the motor even primed before starting it?
 
3 hours?? time seems a bit short to final wash a block, clean the crank, check the ring gap, check the rod to crank clearance et al....

it would take 3 hours just to do the dry build, then another 3 to 5 hours to dissasemble, set the clearances than needed to be, and then reassemble the engine
 
Everything was suppose to be stock as the crank was new. I had them do all the work complete so I was assuming they would do there job but the guy had honed the block before I gave him the pistons then I dropped the parts off at the shop and he installed everything in 3 hours which makes me suspect that we have some error somewhere in installation. He never gave me a build sheet of any measurements just told be that everything fit good.


honing the block with out the pistons is okay but only after checking the cylinders for warping cracks, etc... your thinking of boring the block with out the pistons is a big no no, second off, 3 hours is not enough time to check every thing a machine shop should do theres no way. I'm leaning towards he installed bearings with out checking specs, installed crank and probably didn't even gap your piston rings correctly and just moved on to the next motor.
 
Turbo's full of metal, too. Might as well figure on pulling that thing down as well.

If you fix the engine and run the turbo as-is, it will die in less than 500 miles.

I learned about this one myself. Luckly I caught it before it was damaging.

Bearing material from the previous motor when it had rod knock. The stuff got lodged into the oil passage on the back side of the thrust plate.

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yes it was primed plenty it had a bad cam sensor so when we tried to get it running it wouldnt start so it was probably turned over a thousand times before it actually fired. I think I want to build this six bolt I got with this 95 tsi awd it looks pretty clean but its alot of money to keep buying forged pistons and rods. I am not sure what they are going to do but the one cap looked good there was about 3thousands of play in the crank and only side by side play in the rods but it has just started to knock and there where brass shavings in the oil pan and on the sock so there definaletly is something wrong. So I will find out tomorrow I honestly dont believe the engine was assembled properly.. SHITTY DEAL
 
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