For me, A/F Gauge or Wideband?

[Darkolako]

Well sorry for my noobness, but i guess this what the newbie forum is for.

First of all I have a 97 GST and I have been slowly working with it, mainly maintenance , looks like the previous owner had few mods but sold it to me as stock yeah right he ripped everything, solenoids . and all the mods, maybe except downpipe and intake.

anyways I haven't had any problems with the car, but the other day while looking at my spark plugs which i replace like a month ago they were black on the corners but kinda white colored on the center, my mechanic told me that it was running dry, and asked me to get a Fuel regulator, which is already on the way, i was getting a code also of bad TPS but after resetting all my codes it hasn't come back, not sure if that will cause to run dry also.

anyways I wanna make sure my Mix is ok, but since I don't have my original downpipe it means i dont have the o2 sensor?, and that is require for an A/F gauge?

Do i need to mod my downpipe and get a wideband for 150+?

the car is my daily driver I just want to make sure its running ok.

 

[LiquidX]

You need your stock narrow band sensor as that controls the mixture assuming you are talking a out the front sensor. Between an a/f gauge and true wideband, wideband will ALWAYS be better and more accurate.

An A/F gauge is like a laser machine that looks pretty. The wideband is a laser pointer showing exactly what you need to see.

The fuel regulator is just limiting the pressure in the fuel line, you may want to check the fuel filter itself for any build up if you haven't had that changed at all before you encounter another fuel issue.

What spark plugs are you running?

 

[miguelmcv]

Fuel Regulator will not add more fuel, Your filter could, if it is dirty, I mean (DIRTY), but I don't think the filter nor the Fuel Regulator is your problem, if your filter is dirty then you get fuel cut at high speed.
you definitely need your O2 sensor. Unless you have some sore of tuning device.

 

[Darkolako]

Im runing ngk brp6es i belive is the numeration anywwys the one recommended on this site for mostly stock, btw the car is runing at 15psi , without boost controller i guess the prevoous owner did something on the wastegate or something I know the car has a lot of diy mods

 

[AlaskanDsm]

A great analogy I heard somewhere on this site describing the difference between a narrowband and a wideband was as simple as this.

A narrowband is like skateboarding at night with a flashlight.
A wideband is like skateboarding during the day.

 

[Zdrummer15]

If you haven't looked under the car at the downpipe yet, do that because having an aftermarket one does not mean the previous owner eliminated the second o2 sensor. As far as buying a narrowband or wideband, don't waste your money on a narrowband. As was said by liquidx, they are not accurate enough to be useful. If you are running 15 psi without a boost controller it is most likely because the factory BCS (boost control solenoid) has been eliminated. If you don't have an aftermarket boost gauge though, there is no way to know how much boost you are really running.

 

[Darkolako]

So ok i will try to find a good and cheap wideband gauge, will i still need an o2 sensor? Or just add the wideband sensor on my downpipe, and what could be the reason of runing "dry" and pos fix im runing the sparks at 32 gap will change the fuel filter and try to test the tps, but it hanst gave me the code again.

I will post some pics in about 2 hours after im done with my wife lancer tune up

yes i saw that the bcs was eliminated and the fuel solenoid and i think every solenoid on the firewall also egr, and i looked at my downpipe and there is not any kind of sensor on it until a plug soon b4 the resonator, but to be honest im not sure what to look for

 

[LiquidX]

Good and cheap doesn't go together usually. Find yourself an Innovate LC-1 (preferred) or an AEM UEGO wideband.

You will need to weld in or clamp in a new bung on the pipe (closer to the exhaust source the better minus the manifold). Unless you have the means to run narrow band simulation then you will need the stock narrowband sensor as well.

Stock gap is 0.028"

 

[Tanro]

Well, A narrowband AF Gauge is basically on accurate enough tell you if you running dangerously rich or lean, or somewhere in the middle. It is not a tuning device. You cannot tune by it. I wouldn't waste my money.

Get a Innovate LC-1 or an AEM UEGO.

You can either eliminate the rear o2 sensor on a 2g (if you do this mod correctly you wont through a code) and put the WBo2 in the rear location, or use a camp-on bung, or a weld-on bung. An exhaust shop should be able to weld on the bung included with most gauges for around 10-20$.

I took in my down pipe off the car and they did it for 8$.

 

[turbo tim1]

A great analogy I heard somewhere on this site describing the difference between a narrowband and a wideband was as simple as this.

A narrowband is like skateboarding at night with a flashlight.
A wideband is like skateboarding the day.

I love the analogy.

I don't think a narrow band should even be called and A/F gauge, you would have better luck tuning your car by feel and checking plug color, .

A real A/F gauge is a wide band, it will tell you exactly what is going on.

Weld in a separate bung for the the wide band sensor and leave your other two o2 sensors alone.

 

[miguelmcv]

Just curious,,,, What Device are you using to tune you car??????......

 

[95gst16g]

The o2 sensor before the cat will just give you a cel the one you NEED is the one on the exhaust manifold...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[RyanSaiki]

I have a stupid Autometer A/F guage in my car and all it does is flash and get annoying! I unhooked it since I got DSMLink now, and I am looking at buying the Innovative LC-1 wideband here shortly.
Quick question, do we only need the o2 sensor thats on the o2 housing? My car still has the one further down the exhaust as well

 

[AlaskanDsm]

The o2 sensor before the cat will just give you a cel the one you NEED is the one on the exhaust manifold...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[LiquidX]

I have a stupid Autometer A/F guage in my car and all it does is flash and get annoying! I unhooked it since I got DSMLink now, and I am looking at buying the Innovative LC-1 wideband here shortly.
Quick question, do we only need the o2 sensor thats on the o2 housing? My car still has the one further down the exhaust as well

By having ECMLink (v3 at least) you can enable narrow band simulation. It will allow you to put the wideband in th stock front o2 location. You can then also then remove the rear sensor by turning off the check to see if it's there.

Overall the only sensor needed going that route would be the wideband sensor.

 

[RyanR79]

Cant go wrong with a AEM UEGO

 

[LiquidX]

No, but it's not as responsive as the LC-1 nor does it have as wide of a sweep

I'm actually not a fan of most of AEMs products to be honest. Their MAP sensors aren't even a full 5v range bu people buy their stuff for the name :sigh:

Not saying it's all bad but unless the product I'm looking for is "worse" than the AEM then I won't get it.

 

[gusu]

No, but it's not as responsive as the LC-1 nor does it have as wide of a sweep

I'm actually not a fan of most of AEMs products to be honest. Their MAP sensors aren't even a full 5v range bu people buy their stuff for the name :sigh:

Not saying it's all bad but unless the product I'm looking for is "worse" than the AEM then I won't get it.

Plus the LC-1 has a nice sexy look to it. Though it does look like a fancy yo-yo.

 

[Tanro]

AEM - you end paying a little for the name at least. And you do get a product. But there are better ones.

I would go with the Innovate myself. AEM UEGO acts a bit wonkey with dsm link.

 

[dj-t]

What makes a wide-band a wide-band? Is there any difference in the gauges/wiring? Lets say if you have a narrow band can you run a separate O2 sensor and call it a wide-band?

 

[Chuck981]

I love the analogy.

I don't think a narrow band should even be called and A/F gauge, you would have better luck tuning your car by feel and checking plug color, .

A real A/F gauge is a wide band, it will tell you exactly what is going on.

Weld in a separate bung for the the wide band sensor and leave your other two o2 sensors alone.

i just wish we could buy a matching wide band for our gauge set. im a perfectionist and like everything to match.

 

[LiquidX]

What makes a wide-band a wide-band? Is there any difference in the gauges/wiring? Lets say if you have a narrow band can you run a separate O2 sensor and call it a wide-band?

It's the controller that is being used that is converting the oxygen content signal into a usable lambda or AFR. You need to use an actual wideband sensor not a narrow band sensor for it to work. Also wideband sensors have a 0v-5v range while the narrow band is 0v-1v IIRC (less accurate)

Many modern vehicles come stock with a wideband sensor BTW

Chuck, if you would happen to have ECMLink at least, the gauge is not needed as you can log the wideband via Link through the ECU. All you would need is the controller and sensor.

 

[Chuck981]

good to know thanx alot

 

[jed344]

ah my old blinky light narrowband had that in my car for a little while it was free so figured why not. iv herd alot of negative talk about aem wideband lately i had one and i liked it personally. i loved the look of it aswell