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pyrometer or a/f gauge?

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JiveMasterT

15+ Year Contributor
1,848
9
Jan 3, 2004
Chest of Westerson, New York
its getting to be time to fill my other gauge pod spot and i wanna know what is going to be most useful in the future... an a/f gauge or a pyrometer? is there anything else i should consider getting? got a show coming up in a few weeks and i dont wanna have the slot empty... but at the same time my car is mostly go so i want something thats going to be functional in the future. my friend uses his a/f gauge quite a bit since he got his new turbo and injectors, but other people tell me a pyrometer is essential on a turbo car.
 
get a egt gauge and a boost guage if you don't already have one. save the money spent on a a/f gauge and put it towards a logger
 
ok, will do. and the egt probe goes in my downpipe right? where should i go to have that done? i dont trust myself with a drill + tap and die.
 
Originally posted by JiveMasterT
ok, will do. and the egt probe goes in my downpipe right? where should i go to have that done? i dont trust myself with a drill + tap and die.

It goes in the #1 runner of your exhaust manifold. I have mine about 2" into it (from the head.)
 
Originally posted by leet
It goes in the #1 runner of your exhaust manifold. I have mine about 2" into it (from the head.)

i read on here that it was a bad idea to put it there because the gauges only go up so high and you will be maxed out if you put it there, which doesnt tell you if there is a problem.
 
Originally posted by JiveMasterT
i want something thats going to be functional in the future. but other people tell me a pyrometer is essential on a turbo car.

These people are telling you right. Don't make the mistake many of us made, get the EGT. Like it was previously said, save the 50$ or so for that A/F, and use it towards a logger.
 
Originally posted by JiveMasterT
i read on here that it was a bad idea to put it there because the gauges only go up so high and you will be maxed out if you put it there, which doesnt tell you if there is a problem.
you should be fine asl ong as your pyrometer reads up to atleast 1600 deg. F alittle more would be nice but most that read above 1600 like a Greddy are in Celcius.
 
Originally posted by 99blackgst
you should be fine asl ong as your pyrometer reads up to atleast 1600 deg. F alittle more would be nice but most that read above 1600 like a Greddy are in Celcius.

Let me know if I'm wrong, but EGTs reading in excess of 1600 F isn't a good thing anyway.
 
Originally posted by GSntncT
Let me know if I'm wrong, but EGTs reading in excess of 1600 F isn't a good thing anyway.
yeah your right its common for egts to read alittle over 1600F at WOT close to redline in higher gears. 1600F should give you a good enough picture of how your car is running by watching how quicky it rises w/ rpm and time.
 
Originally posted by RiceKiller_TSi
A/F is schitt for tuning or relying on for anything other than looking pretty. Take it from someone who owns one, get the pyrometer.

Take it from another. :p
 
ok, what about an oil pressure and fuel pressure gauge? would you consider these worthy investments? if need be, i will sell my 2 slot pod and get a 3 slot pod.
 
Originally posted by JiveMasterT
ok, what about an oil pressure and fuel pressure gauge? would you consider these worthy investments? if need be, i will sell my 2 slot pod and get a 3 slot pod.
yeah they're worthy at least a whole lot more than a a/f guage. If it was me I'd get a fuel pressure gauge to monitor my 255 and fpr.
 
Get the Greddy EGT gauge with peak,hold and warning. You can set the warning light to come on at 850 degrees Celcius wich is somewhere around the range that you want to be. The Greddy EGT probe is much better than the Autometer one and the gauge is much easier to read due to the lighting.
 
Originally posted by Slow99x
Get the Greddy EGT gauge with peak,hold and warning. You can set the warning light to come on at 850 degrees Celcius wich is somewhere around the range that you want to be. The Greddy EGT probe is much better than the Autometer one and the gauge is much easier to read due to the lighting.
i've been thinking about getting a greddy because of its features. How is it a far as reaction time? I've heard autometer probes are slow and i'm starting to believe it as well.
 
I've heard of ppl tapping the agt into the manifold while it's still on the car, is that alright? couldn't shavings get into the turbo?
 
Originally posted by Selbig007
I've heard of ppl tapping the agt into the manifold while it's still on the car, is that alright? couldn't shavings get into the turbo?

Yes and yes. It can be done on the car but I wouldnt recommend it. People that drill the mani on the car will leave it running so the exhaust will blow out the metal chips. I think thats risky and lazy so just take the time to remove it and do it right the first time with zero risk.
 
actually...there was a website (i forget which one) that tested which cylinder was the leanest running one. it was actually cylinder 2. which doesnt make any sense because cyl. 1 is the last to get fuel. there was barely a diff between 1 and 2 but it showed 2 running leaner for some reason. they tested it on a 1g, 2g, and gvr4. i have mine tapped in cylinder 1. i just wanted to bring that up incase anyone had heard the same thing. but DEFINATELY get an EGT gauge instaed. f*** that las vegas circus that is un-accurate as shit.
 
When you are guys are talking about a/f meters are you including the ones that are tuned like the ones sold at www.gadgetseller.com? They reprogram a/f gauges to narrow tolerances. I realize in stock form autometer a/f are useless but what about the modified ones?
 
Originally posted by philipkrotch
actually...there was a website (i forget which one) that tested which cylinder was the leanest running one. it was actually cylinder 2. which doesnt make any sense because cyl. 1 is the last to get fuel. there was barely a diff between 1 and 2 but it showed 2 running leaner for some reason. they tested it on a 1g, 2g, and gvr4.

I had my new EVO III exhaust manifold tapped for an EGT by Extreme Motorsports, and they said that they have noticed that #2 is the leanest, not #1. So, it sounds like there is some difference in opinion as to which is leanest.
 
well mine was tapped in cyl 1 before i found this out, otherwise i woulda tapped it in 2. i was just curious if anyone experienced this first hand. i guess so.
 
Supposedly the heat from #1 and #3 transfer to #2 to make it hotter than #1 alone. #1 alone has no other runner next to it making it slightly cooler. Heat radiates from both sides of the #2 runner.
 
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