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spades_gsx

15+ Year Contributor
367
1
Mar 5, 2004
aurora, Illinois
I am rebuilding my motor because one of my rods went on strike. any way the head looks like its ok and my main question is I have two choices, buy a new bottom end for $4500 installed and use the existing head or buy a complete engine used for $3000 installed and get the head rebuilt with better and stronger valve train? I dont plan on seeing anymore than 350-400hp. the reason I ask is b/c $5000 is pretty much my spending limit I know I could save more money if I do the install myself, but i don't have the tools or the time to do my own engine swap. thanks
 
Are you going with a 6bolt? For only shooting for a max of 400hp I would say stock should due with maybe getting the rods cryo'd/ shotpeened. The only real reason for upgrading the topend is if you plan on reving past stock rpm's regularly.

Just get combustion chambers polished, bowl work, port match, new guides, seals and I think you'll be happy and way under budget.
 
by the way it is not a 6 bolt. it is a new 99 short block(still a 7bolt). a 6bolt, under my impression would have to be run with either dsmlink or a full standalone to run properly without any cel codes or future problems. my car is a 97 therefore no eprom. the 7 bolt will handle my plans respectably. but like a asked earlier brand new block or complete used motor? and since i can save money like gixrman stated. what other engine mods can i do.(besides turbo and supporting mods) like any porting or machining or removal to the block and or head?
 
get a used motor and slap it in. dont bother porting or doing shit to anything, itll be a waste of money.
 
with used motor would it be wise to change the timing belt and all the usual parts that go with a timing belt install? what other preventative maintenance should I do to the replacement motor?
 
just get a cheap used motor and save your money to build the motor you blew up.

like stroke it, bore it 60 over and through a race head with race cams in with it.

defanitly change the timming belt and the oil pump belt for sure. change the oil pump belt that is behind the timming belt twords the crank. my buddy snapped his it wrapted around his timming belt and jumped one tooth, bent some where around 13 valves. general things as well like the oil, spark plugs, plug wires, and etc..
 
throw the old motor in the garbage an get a used motor... Change t-belt, water pump at least probly. Otherwise should be pretty good to go.
 
spades_gsx said:
by the way it is not a 6 bolt. it is a new 99 short block(still a 7bolt). a 6bolt, under my impression would have to be run with either dsmlink or a full standalone to run properly without any cel codes or future problems. my car is a 97 therefore no eprom. the 7 bolt will handle my plans respectably. but like a asked earlier brand new block or complete used motor? and since i can save money like gixrman stated. what other engine mods can i do.(besides turbo and supporting mods) like any porting or machining or removal to the block and or head?

Just replacing the 6bolt short block(putting your 2g head on it) will not require and mods besides a 6bolt flywheel and modifing the motormount.

Make your own decision on which one, I've been reading this board for so long I have nightmares about crankwalk so.....

Also no one mentioned balancer shaft bent replacment also. Check www.karking.com he has goood deals on short blocks. you can get a new 2.4(7 bolt) short block for $550 thats a steal.
 
a 2.4L with oem internals... Karking offers complete REBUILT shortblocks for 750$ shipped.
 
now if I go with the 2.4l short block what pistons and crank do I need since its a bigger displacement or does the block come with internals? I know karking would know for sure but you guys are helping so much. thanks again!
 
It comes with crank, rods, pistons. I would replace the pistons for turbocharging. Look at the 2.4 build-up threads for parts. Since the 2.4 block has no oil squirters I would go with forged pistons for strenght and endurence. Do some research on this before you make a final decision.

I would also call Karking to find out if the crank if forged or cast.
 
i know you guys are going to shoot me but i think I'm just going to go with the rebuilt 95-99. I spoke to the guy at karking and he said he builds them with stonger rods. what ever kind they are I don't know but, I will ask when I am ready to do the build. A 2.4l block would be very nice but, until I read the 2.4l thread on build up may be I will change my mind. I don't race and I don't pound on my car that much so I don't want more than I need but on the other hand i am a firm believer of doing it right the first to avoid uncostly repairs and mistakes. any more info is gladly accepted. one more question though just to not start another thread, since I have a 97 and no eprom can I use a 95 ecu with eprom in my car? I will most likely search but just thought I would ask.
 
Its your decision dude, you do what you want and can afford don't let anybody try to steer you into buying something that you don't need. Like I said do your research and then make a choice, a well informed one. The reason I suggested the 2.4 was becuase for everday street use you can't beat the extra torque. The only side affect of that is plan on replacing your tranny. I just destroyed mine on a e16g. And if I wasn't in the hole now for the tranny that was my next move.

Also you can find everything you need to know about your second Q here:
www.dsmlink.com
 
gixrman said:
Just replacing the 6bolt short block(putting your 2g head on it) will not require and mods besides a 6bolt flywheel and modifing the motormount.

Make your own decision on which one, I've been reading this board for so long I have nightmares about crankwalk so.....

And how do you suppose he would fix the random misfire codes? Just like he said he would need dsmlink.

Honestly just buy a used 7 bolt, change the timing belt and slap it in.
 
1fast97gsx said:
And how do you suppose he would fix the random misfire codes? Just like he said he would need dsmlink.

Honestly just buy a used 7 bolt, change the timing belt and slap it in.

Well if your using the 2g head why would you get the misfire codes, READ THE POST AND UNDERSTAND WHAT IS BEING STATED. The problem which you are refering to only happens when running the 1g CAS (1g head swap)in a 2g.
 
thanks guys I am going to go with a used 7bolt. primarily b/c its the cheapest option and i need my car up and running. in the future I will get a 6bolt and do it right. i would go ahead and get the 6bolt now but I don't want to halfass it. thans to all for all the info!
 
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