Flywheel problem

[javier347]

A piece of my clutch fork had broken off about a month ago. I when ahead and replaced it but nerver found the peice that broke. A week later i hear a shshrdlsfjhlsdjfkj coming from the transmission. I take it off pp look good and so does the clutch. Now the flywheel is ok but that missing piece that i never found was scrapping off the tip of the starter and the edge of the flywheel. The teeth of the flywheel did not get touch but the edge did, it looks like it took a bit of abuse since it was being scrapped with the peice of the fork that broke. Here is a pic of where it was scrapped off of. I will try to get an actual pic of the flywheel. Thank you, Javier

And yes i know i cant draw.

 

[99gst_racer]

So, what's your question?

 

[javier347]

If ts OK to still run it like that. I just want to make sure there will be no unbalancing issues where it would damage the crank or something.

 

[Pirrofab]

Our motors our internally balanced and a harmonic balancer absorbs engine vibratrions from the rotating parts. Such small amounts of scrapping marks should not be a problem. as long as the teeth for the flywheel are all intact and not flattened or broken or severly chipped should be ok. I would be confident in reusing the flywheel.

 

[javier347]

Thanks for the feedback that's all i needed to hear. Thank u.

 

[mochilli]

OK, so i bought a used ACT lightweight flywheel off a member on here (won't mention names). But he said that it was in good shape and that he went to a machine shop and it didn't need to be resurfaced....ANYWAYS, i took it to a machine shop to double check and sure enough, it was in a well need of a resurface...The the step was already .610 to begin with and theres some DEF. heat marks on it...specifically two spots...The Mech. didnt want to take out the dowel pins because he would have to eat them up and he's afraid of warping it...I assume the guy who put it in used high intensity loctite. HAS anyone else had to resurface everything and take out the dowel pins? Heres some pics of the flywheel..tell me what you think of the damage and what i should do

 

[snowborder714]

Check out this thread for more dowel pin info, posted by twicks.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ct2900-vs-act2600-useing-sbc-kevlar-disk.html

 

[mochilli]

So, im going to need new METRIC DOWEL pins? Can i get these at the chrysler or mitsibushi dealerships??

 

[mochilli]

GOOD NEWS!! i found a shop that knew exactly what they were doing...i got it resurfaced for $40 cash and they made the step to .610 (what the ACT lightweight flywheel comes with). HOWEVER, i don't think they put in new dowel pins, but they seem to look exactly the same as before..here are some pics..


any criticisms? p.s dont mind my finger smudge marks..

 

[snowborder714]

Looks much better!

 

[Pirrofab]

Install it and let it rip. It looks better then my new one I installed for 30 miles. I just didn't like the way the stock clutch felt with it.

 

[mochilli]

I have the ACT 2600 and street disc going in with it. Funny, bc this is basically my first mod im doing to my car (bc my clutch is on its last thread ). But i got MBC, AEM UEGO and Boost gauge coming in, then ill install my FMIC and grab an E3Big16 and do those at once....


Install and let it rip? Should i not break it in for 500 miles??

 

[Auto RS T]

Does it look like they machined the "steps" also? I can't really tell from the pics. To surface the flywheel correctly the step and the friction surface both must be machined. Measure from the step to the friction surface for depth. If the dowels look the same this could be a sign of an improper resurfacing because they would need to be removed before resurfacing.

Here's a good explaination. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/1294034-post4.html

 

[mochilli]

They def. took out the dowels..the machinest was complaining how hes never had that much of a problem taking out dowels before hah..and yess they obv. took material off the top too..he showed me the step after...so im ready to rock and roll i mean...rock and launch (after the break in)

Does it look like they machined the "steps" also? I can't really tell from the pics. To surface the flywheel correctly the step and the friction surface both must be machined. Measure from the step to the friction surface for depth. If the dowels look the same this could be a sign of an improper resurfacing because they would need to be removed before resurfacing.

Here's a good explaination. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/1294034-post4.html

 

[Pirrofab]

I have the ACT 2600 and street disc going in with it. Funny, bc this is basically my first mod im doing to my car (bc my clutch is on its last thread ). But i got MBC, AEM UEGO and Boost gauge coming in, then ill install my FMIC and grab an E3Big16 and do those at once....


Install and let it rip? Should i not break it in for 500 miles??

Whoops sorry bout that. Most certainly break it in. A nice mixture of light stop and go traffic, highway, hills. All the usual kind of driving conditions except w.o.t bursts and clutch drops and drag racing. Everyone has there own way of breaking in a clutch but thats just my .02 cents.

As far as your other mods that your getting ready to install, I hope your going to add some fuel. rewired pump, afpr, injectors, safc?

 

[mochilli]

Whoops sorry bout that. Most certainly break it in. A nice mixture of light stop and go traffic, highway, hills. All the usual kind of driving conditions except w.o.t bursts and clutch drops and drag racing. Everyone has there own way of breaking in a clutch but thats just my .02 cents.

As far as your other mods that your getting ready to install, I hope your going to add some fuel. rewired pump, afpr, injectors, safc?

of courseeee i know my stuff...and DSMlink btw. 880 injectors, walbro 255 high pressure (rewired) 3" turbo-back (im just missing cat-back), AFPR (all in due time)

 

[twicks69]

I am glad it all worked out for you! The flywheel looks good!

Definitely take your time and break it in properly. Just remember to readjust your clutch master cylinder/pedal assembly to set proper engagement/disengagement pedal throw, and you will likely need to re-adjust the clutch after a few hundred miles when it breaks in. With that in mind, it might be worth keeping a 12mm wrench and a pliers in the car if you get stranded with clutch that changed its engagement characteristics when you are out and about. Then you will have no excuse for prematurely wrecking the clutch, or wrecking your transmission.

Be sure to properly bleed your clutch hydraulics and use new, fresh brake fluid. I usually recommend Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4 brake fluid for clutch hydraulics as it has a very good wet/dry boiling temp range, and is less hydroscopic (the ability to absorb water) than cheaper fluids, and even a few more expensive fluids (for example: Wilwood 570). Having clean and consistent clutch hydraulics will be easier to adjust the clutch, and will provide better consistency with engagement/disengagement characteristics. It is also proper maintenence procedures to have a happy clutch.

Happy I could help you via PM!

Good luck!

Tim Zimmer

 

[twicks69]

Also, for future reference, the three dowels that are in our stock, ACT, Fidanza, Jun, etc. brand flywheels are easily purchased at any Mitsubishi dealer as the following part number:

MF472404 x 3 = $0.85 - $1.22 price range each.

If you want to purchase them through McMaster or Fastenal, the dimensions are:

M8 x 18mm

Now, you can be properly prepared for a flywheel resurfacing by having replacement dowels with you when you drop off the flywheel. Your machinist will like you alot more, and you will be saving them time, which will save you money!