First time down with 3065

[Mike 99GSX]

Nobody is hating. I'm just telling him like it is. As for you, why on earth would you only run 10.5psi on a 9 second turbo? You are in the exact same bunch you just condemned. 9 sec. turbo and running hi 12's. Whoopty do. When YOU get some decent #'s, then post.

Wasn't he trying to be nice and encouraging to you? Lighten the f$#k up. My first time out with my new setup was yesterday(BR580) very similar turbo and I only went 11.85 @ 123 because I couldn't get the car out of the hole. Have some patience and it will come.

 

[starion4g63]

its called my first pass(tuning). As for my numbers I have bin alot faster then your 11.5 . So lets here why your numbers suck so bad.Like I sead crawl before you run.

BTW- I am still crawling.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Wasn't he trying to be nice and encouraging to you? Lighten the f$#k up. My first time out with my new setup was yesterday(BR580) very similar turbo and I only went 11.85 @ 123 because I couldn't get the car out of the hole. Have some patience and it will come.

but at least your mph is a little more indicative of what the turbo can do.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

its called my first pass(tuning). As for my numbers I have bin alot faster then your 11.5 . So lets here why your numbers suck so bad.Like I sead crawl before you run.

BTW- I am still crawling.

Well, we don't see any #'s of any sort for you. And as for me, I guess 11.50@120 on 93 octane and a 50 trim is pretty slow. Let me know when you find someone that's gone faster on a stock ECU and that setup.

 

[Violater101]

Well, people who know anything about DSM's should know that FP's turbo's don't suck. A friends FP3065 went 11.1@128 and still has more room in it.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Nobody is saying the turbo sucks. We are just wondering why people post their results with poor tuning, super low boost levels, or just "test" runs. If I came on here to say "I went 14.5 with my FP Green" would anyone care?? What if I mentioned that I launched the car at idle and then shut the car down at 1/2 track? I think the threads would be more useful if people actually got the car running well, and then posted their results. Not results on a first pass, tuning pass, blown motor pass, etc.

But, that's just my opinion. It's like an asshole, everyone has one, and mine usually stinks.

 

[Violater101]

I'm sure he was just excited to get his car to the track and wanted to post up his xp. I hear what ya say though...I was just referring to the fact about people seeing this and saying well my joe turbo has run that time.

 

[G_S_X]

I think even though people post their "bad" runs... its just to make them feel better about their cars... I did it , hell , I was actually dissappointed by my time..

 

[starion4g63]

Some of us dont need to brag about our best time or put other people down. The point is to help out others that have not made it down that road yet. We all started some where.

Best thing to do nos4g63 is get the bugs worked out and then head to the track. Take small steps upping the boost.

As for my times I have your 11.50 beat by over a second and have over 15mph on you with no nitrous. We have had a 20g with 2g mass and afc go 11.2 123mph. We also have a 3000lb+ car 50 trim 2g mass afc going 11.4 at 125.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

As for my times I have your 11.50 beat by over a second and have over 15mph on you with no nitrous. We have had a 20g with 2g mass and afc go 11.2 123mph. We also have a 3000lb+ car 50 trim 2g mass afc going 11.4 at 125.

I"m glad you do. Now, take into account what turbo I have. I don't have a 600hp turbo like all the other 3065/scm61 people do. I've got just a simple Green. And you got the Green beat by a whopping .1 seconds. As for the 20g car, that sounds awefully similar to Tort's car from PA. Damn near the exact same #'s.

When I turn my car into a stripped out drag queen with the big turbo, I'll let you know what it runs. Until then, I'll keep throwing my opinions out there

 

[oldmopwater]

I only have a big 16 and the reason my times are not up to what they should be is because my trans is going. Any way the guy probally just has some smaller problems holding him back, some people just post their times just to show everyone what is going on as far as their car.

 

[boostedinaz]

Even with my 20min tune the car is still going like 113mph traps as I did roll on that LS1 leaving the track. I really want to get my car to the track tomorrow because I know it is fast and capable of mid to low 12's. My car does not have the stock limiter, I was shifting in the high 7k's which was probally slowing me down because the cams.

I have tons of money in the car I just need a couple more passes to get a decent pass out of this thing.

You say mid to low 12's. Is that your goal in the end or just for the next few runs. Either way why buy a huge turbo just to put down bad times. The people supporting him say to crawl before walking but he hasnt even done that, he still has the stock exhaust. He may have experiance racing in general but each car is different and should have the supporting mods(crawling) before getting a 3065 (sprinting) and then heading to the track. I agree there are alot of people that want mid to low 12's and get a big turbo to just make it easier for them so they dont have to learn how to tune. i believe he should have posted a decent time then come here and said his part.

Michael

 

[Nos~4G63]

Well the car is still running and I am making a little bit of money with it on the street. AWD on the street is almost like cheating. I pull 4 cars on everyone right out the hole. I can drive the car much better now then when I initially went to the track.
I keep breaking clutch and shifter parts. First it was the bolts backing off that hold the linkage in place, then shortly after the slave cylinder was leaking. So I replaced the slave cylinder and fixed the linkage. Now I think the master cylinder is gone as I have to pump the clutch to get it to engage smoothly.
I still have not installed the battery box but I am hoping to get it in by wednesday cause I am really eager to get to the track. I didnt go at all last week because of the battery box and lack of funds. RNR called about the exhaust and said that it was sent back to them. When I ordered I gave them the wrong zip code, so I corrected that and they re-shipped it on wednesday.
I installed a new aeromotive fpr and set it at 40 with the vacume un-plugged and I have had to lean the car out alot. Again I have the eprom set for 850's, maf trans 0'd out, and now I have -20 on the AFC on the high trim. Im not sure why I have to take out so much fuel, my eprom is set for my injectors yet I have the AFC leaned out -20..wtf?
I have a set of BPR7 plugs in at stock gap .030 and the car now blows out the spark at 22psi so I turned it down to 20 and all is well. I plan on re-gapping them and turning the boost back up soon.
Other than that the car is still the same, very slow

 

[Nos~4G63]

You say mid to low 12's. Is that your goal in the end or just for the next few runs. Either way why buy a huge turbo just to put down bad times. The people supporting him say to crawl before walking but he hasnt even done that, he still has the stock exhaust. He may have experiance racing in general but each car is different and should have the supporting mods(crawling) before getting a 3065 (sprinting) and then heading to the track. I agree there are alot of people that want mid to low 12's and get a big turbo to just make it easier for them so they dont have to learn how to tune. i believe he should have posted a decent time then come here and said his part.
Michael

Mid to low 12's are not my goal. I want to make over 600whp with this car and consistantly run mid to low 10's.
I do plan on running mid to low 12's on my next trip to the track with stock cams and stock downpipe.

I built this car while it was apart so It was more important for me to get things like a clutch and flywheel than it was to get the exhaust. I wanted to get the car running. My plan is to go wicked fast with the car but I am tired of dumping money without getting any satisfaction with it. That is why I brought it to the track with the stock downpipe. Just to get something back from all this money and time I have invested into the car.

 

[JohnTSI]

Got the 3065 turned up to 32 pounds on sat night car was insanely fast. Then sun morning it developed a stutter at 15lbs that stayed no matter what the rpm. It will pop and buck but work through it. I think I have a boost leak but I will find out tonight. I couldnt tune it out with fuel so we will see what happens by morning.

 

[Nos~4G63]

I think my tranny is ####ed. It started when the linkage bracket that holds the shifter cables to the top of the tranny broke. When I bolted the cables back in place I think I had it a bad angle as the car was a little more difficult to shift and not as smooth. Then I tried to race and I couldnt get the car to go into second at high rpms and after trying to race the car the shifter would get very stiff and I could not shift the car at all. Also when that happened I had the car up on the 2step with the clutch fully depressed and the car was rolling forward. After that incident I replaced the slave cylinder and adjusted the linkage and all my problems were fixed. Car shifted great. A couple weeks later I started having problems shifting the car again so I checked the linkage and the bolts holding the shifter cables had become loose, so I tightened them. The car was still difficult to shift. Since it has become hard to shift the second time I again replaced the slave cylinder even though it looked fine. Shifter was still notchy. The next day I drove the car and it was fine, no longer notchy.... Until I pressed the clutch hard during a fast 3-4 shift. Then it was all notchy once again. So I replaced the master cylinder last night. After replacing the master cylinder I thought the clutch felt a little bit softer but Im not totally sure. I bled the system till their was no bubbles coming out. I took the car for a ride and it it was still notchy and you would have to pretty much force the car into gear. I tried shifting it fast and no go. After trying to shift it fast I could not get it into 1st with the engine running. Now I have to turn the engine off for the car to go into first gear. Once it is in gear I turn the car on with the clutch pedal fully depressed and the car starts rolling forward. Even with the clutch to the floor.
So my problem is the clutch will not fully dissengage. When it started it was only at high rpm now it wont fully dissengage at idle. Did I do something wrong? Do I need to adgust the rod going to the master cylinder? I hope this is an easy fix.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

You are having disengagement problems. If you have bled the clutch correctly, and the car still won't go into gear while it's running, it's engagement problems. couple of fixes. I would replace the clutch fork and pivot ball in the trans. Those are actual wear items. The clutch fork is about $45 and the ball $5. I would also shim the pivot ball. Another fix is to lengthen the rod coming out of the slave cylinder another 1/2 to 3/4". The 3rd fix, which has worked on 3 of my cars, is to loosen up the master cylinder, screw the master cylinder rod all the way out of that bracket that attaches to the clutch pedal assembly, let the rod fall, then remove that bracket from the pedal assembly, then weld a nut onto it so you can thread the master cylinder rod out more.

The REAL cause is wear in the clutch pedal assembly. You have a round peg moving back and forth within a square hole. Over time, the square hole becomes rounded. So the first inch or so of clutch pedal movement is wasted, as the round peg just slides within the square hole (now rounded). The welded nut gives you a few more threads of adjustability, so you acan actually fully disengage the pressure plate. Cost is about $.25 for a nut, then most exhaust shops will weld the nut onto the bracket for nothing ($5 at most). Just make sure you have a bolt threaded in with the nut all the way down against the bracket, so the threads actually line up when you thread in the actual master cylinder rod. And use anit-sieze on the threads BEFORE you weld it. Otherwise, you gonna have one hell of a time getting it off.

Good luck. Taboo's site has some info about this as well.

 

[Nos~4G63]

You are having disengagement problems. If you have bled the clutch correctly, and the car still won't go into gear while it's running, it's engagement problems. couple of fixes. I would replace the clutch fork and pivot ball in the trans. Those are actual wear items. The clutch fork is about $45 and the ball $5. I would also shim the pivot ball. Another fix is to lengthen the rod coming out of the slave cylinder another 1/2 to 3/4". The 3rd fix, which has worked on 3 of my cars, is to loosen up the master cylinder, screw the master cylinder rod all the way out of that bracket that attaches to the clutch pedal assembly, let the rod fall, then remove that bracket from the pedal assembly, then weld a nut onto it so you can thread the master cylinder rod out more.
The REAL cause is wear in the clutch pedal assembly. You have a round peg moving back and forth within a square hole. Over time, the square hole becomes rounded. So the first inch or so of clutch pedal movement is wasted, as the round peg just slides within the square hole (now rounded). The welded nut gives you a few more threads of adjustability, so you acan actually fully disengage the pressure plate. Cost is about $.25 for a nut, then most exhaust shops will weld the nut onto the bracket for nothing ($5 at most). Just make sure you have a bolt threaded in with the nut all the way down against the bracket, so the threads actually line up when you thread in the actual master cylinder rod. And use anit-sieze on the threads BEFORE you weld it. Otherwise, you gonna have one hell of a time getting it off.
Good luck. Taboo's site has some info about this as well.

Thank's for all the useful info. I have allready lengthened the rod on the slave cylinder. I searched on the dissengagement problem all day and assumed I would have to replace the clutch fork and shim the pivot ball but you have given me new hope. I am going to try welding on a nut to the bracket.

 

[Nos~4G63]

Thank's NOSLO2PT0!
I just got back from driving my car around the block with the new bracket. The clutch now fully dissengages. The bolt that goes through the bracket (and has the cotter pin to hold the bracket on) kicked my ass. I still cant get the bolt all the way through to put the cotter pin back in. I drove it around with the bolt 3/4 of the way through. It is going to take a little more manipulating to get it in enough for the cotter pin.

Now I just need to figure out whats going on with the linkage as I have to fight it into second. All other gears shift fine.

 

[Nos~4G63]

I still havnt made it back to the track. I am currently replacing the clutch and clutch fork and that should take car of all my problems. My street disk only has 2k miles on it and that is including my motor break in period when I was babying the car. I think the failure is due to me not shimming the pivot ball when installing the clutch.

I have a video of my car on the street a couple weeks ago. http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133144

And a couple pics of my setup.

 

[CornerHard]

Nice looking setup

 

[Dieselboy]

I have tons of money in the car I just need a couple more passes to get a decent pass out of this thing.

You can dump all the money you want into it, but that doesn't mean it gonna be fast just because it has a big parts price tag. Yes, you could use at least a set of 264/272's and a higher rev limit, but more so you need a downpipe (which is like the third or fourth step in the tuning guide, but you decided to jump to step 20). I didn't read all of your mod list, do you have a stock O2 housing as well? If so, I would highly recommend replacing that as well. You have this big turbo and a stock downpipe, common sense can set in at anytime now. Thats like blowing as hard as you can into one of those tiny coffee straws.

You are being a$$ raped like a $2 whore as far as power is concerned, and its only a couple hundred dollar fix in that downpipe. Take the time to fine tune a bit better and you should pull at least a mid 12 second pass with stock cams and stock rev limit.

 

[Girvin]

sweet setup........tho I hope u put in that last turbo/manifold bolt in

 

[PaleDSM]

Little late to the thread.


There is nothing wrong with saying that you need time to learn to tune and drive. I think what alot of people here are saying is that this isn't the setup to do that on. Makes the learning process harder than it needs to be. Bench racing also tends to rile up the natives.

Good luck getting everything in line and working well.

 

[Nos~4G63]

I did go back to the track since and went 12.9@112 on 27psi and 110octane . It only gets worse. I even blew the headgasket a couple weeks ago while playing with the spray. Im not driving the car again until I have cams, shep tranny, 4bolt rear and at least 2hours on a dyno. Enough playing games.