Spyder First it would start, then stall...now it won't even crank

[SILV BLT]

I've got a 98 Spyder GS. I've read through a lot of the won't start/won't crank issues and I'm not really getting anywhere. The car used to have an issue of not starting briefly, then quickly stalling out (maybe 5 seconds of run time). It was sporadic. Sometimes it would do it, other times it wouldn't. After sitting for a little while, it would usually remedy itself. The car was stored for a little while (it had Stabil in the fuel but that's no guarantee) and when I took it out of storage, it was doing the same thing but I couldn't get it to stay running even after trying a bunch of different things. Then it stopped even trying to crank. No clicking, just the hum of the fuel pump kicking on. I put the car back in storage for the winter and just started trying to mess with it again. I bought a new battery and threw that in and it started, but stalled out after five seconds. Did that a few times over the course of an hour while trying a few different fixes, but now it's back to not even cranking. Has anyone had similar issues? The starter wasn't getting 12v, so it's not a starter/solenoid issue. I also tried jumping the starter relay, and that's not doing anything either. The fuel pump is kicking on, so is the ignition switch working correctly? Is there something else inline between the relay and the starter that could be kicking it out? I don't know where else to dig into. Help!

 

[442powerstroke]

did you ever have after market alarm installed this is common problem alarms disabled key start relay

 

[SILV BLT]

not that I know of, but I'll dig around under the dash to make sure a previous owner hadn't done anything

 

[SILV BLT]

Got the car to turn back over again. Combination of a spotty starter signal wire and a starter that's on it's way out made it tricky to diagnose. That's taken care of now. However, it's back to trying to start up but shutting off after a couple seconds. When it starts up, it sounds normal, but then just shuts off. It's throwing 0335 and 0340 for codes, indicating that both the CAS and CPS are malfunctioning. It seems unlikely that they both went out at the same time. It used to do this intermittently, usually when it sat for any length of time. What could be causing these both to act like they're shot?

 

[mustard95tsi]

I was chasing a no start issue and I'm willing to bet it's just your CPS that needs replacing.

 

[patrick ellsworth]

You can test them both from the plugs next to the timing belt. You can also look at your cas by just taking off the timing belt cover and using a flashlight.

 

[SILV BLT]

Thanks, I'm working on testing both of them. They're both getting power but that's as far as I've had a chance to get. Unfortunately, the CAS is a little hard to get to on the 4g64.

 

[inthemidst]

That usually means you jumped timing so its telling you both are wrong not not functioning .

 

[patrick ellsworth]

That usually means you jumped timing so its telling you both are wrong not not functioning

I would go with this because if your CAS was completely broken it probably wouldn't start at all. Like mine did when I broke mine.

 

[SILV BLT]

I'll check the timing marks. Why would it have been working intermittently for a while though if timing had jumped?

 

[inthemidst]

It could of been jumping one tooth at a time and now u have too many jumped so it won't even start.

 

[SILV BLT]

Timing is fine on the car. I've got a turbo ecu that was from a running car that I'm swapping in with the matching injectors to see if it's either the ECU or injectors. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the CAS and hope that does it. Otherwise it's a crap shoot and I really don't want to just start throwing parts at it.

 

[SILV BLT]

And for anyone else following this thread or who may in the future, you can't visually inspect the CAS on the 4g64 from just popping off the upper timing cover. It's too far down.