Car won't start without jump, then tries to stall

[SlashGSX]

95 GSX
Manual transmission

Ok this all started the other day after I helped someone else jumpstart their car. Came out to mine a few hours later and it wouldn't start so I got a jump and went home. Turned it off then tried turning it back on immediately and it wouldn't turn on.

Jumped it again and drove to work where I could charge the battery. The battery sat there for maybe 5 minutes and said it was fully charged. Car still wouldn't turn on so I checked and it said the alternator was bad. Replaced that last night and the car fired right up.

Went to the store last night after installing the new alternator and when I came out I had to jumpstart my car again. The battery is fully charged and lights and everything work though.

Now the weird part: Once I finally get the damn thing started and try to drive it cuts out like it's stalling or something, but only for a split second at a time. It keeps doing this though and I'm honestly scared to drive it.

I was hearing a clicking noise near the stereo when I would try to start it but that has since gone away.

Any ideas of what this could be? All my fuses look fine. Wires don't seem too bad. What gets me is that it will fire up with a jumper box but then it does that stalling thing.

 

[DSM1G90]

Make sure that the battery terminals and connectors are clean metal bright and super tight and all ground cables from the battery to chassis, transmission and other points are also super tight and clean...otherwise, you're gonna toast up another alternator ....and Oreilly's and Autozone are not the place to get alternators from ... try an alternator shop for these.

 

[stars]

17x on the suggestion on the battery replacement. Often over looked because it tests out at 12.6 volts, which is a false reading. Volts without the Amps to push it does you no good, the clicking you hear is the weird symptoms that occur when you have such electrical problems with starting and charging systems.

I have not quite figured out why such randoms events happening with the relays other than the ecu is switching stuff on and off trying to run its circuits in "fail safe" mode just to keep you going (Maybe some geek can explain it to me one day). It (ecu) is although operating under less power than its normally supplied by a properly maintained charging system. Who would think you battery would cause such a problem. You have 2 separate circuits invloved, but there related to each other. The starting circuit which requires the battery and charging circuit which requires the battery, that's their key link in troubleshooting and is often a misdiagnosed problem I see.

Simple way to test your battery is to leave your bright lights on for about 2-5 minutes and start the car. If the lights dim and starter spins slowly suspect the battery is getting weak and check the alternator output while the cars is running. If you have at least 13.3 to 14.6 volts (that varies keep in mind) and nothings "on" all lights and accessories "off" then your alternator output not the problem. X18 on the battery, and don't give no more jump starts unless it's an emergency it puts a heavy load onto the electrical system and that it is not good. It causes excess heat to build up and if there is even just a sudden voltage spike, the unforeseen happens, fuses get blown, accessories no longer work.. list goes on..., that kind of random events, is what happens when you attempt to jumpstart one vehicle to another. Battery "jump box" is the best for emergencies so never hurts to invest in one of those.

As a good rule, I remove the battery and place it on the proper charger overnight if I suspect it's "dead" or has any problem I suspect. After an overnight charge I will install it and load test again even for longer period than 5 minutes to make sure I fixed the problem. You can go and simply replace it and forget the wait. Don't forget to retest to make sure you got the problem solved and hope you buy a good quality battery. Replace that junk O'Reilly alternator too while your at it. Will save you some grief, also grounding u need to double check. Test light draw check to circuits at PDS from neg battery terminal, bet the draw is on the "ignition" side when you unplug fuse but that's what u have to check, schematic helpful at this point trace down and isolate circuit as soon as you find out what fuse turns that test light "off".

 

[98zx23369]

read all the posts, he tried a new battery, I still think ground related

 

[SlashGSX]

I'm going to go out and check the battery connections right now. Thanks for the replies. I'll post an update probably tomorrow when I find out.

 

[SunDaeDryVuhh]

I had a similar experience with a sebring. i thought it was the bettery terminals, the battery, the alternator, etc. in the end it was the crank position sensor.

 

[Arthris]

If you have a Multi meter check the resistance from the neg terminal to the engine. Disconnect Positive first though. You should have less than 1 ohm of resistance. If you have more check the cable itself. It could be corroded inside the insulation or be burnt and partially melted.