2G First Gear Pops Out

[pauleyman]

I will also suggest new shifter bushings. They are very reasonable and will make an old shifter feel new again.
2G DSM 95-99 Shifter Bushings | DSM 3D Creations https://share.google/Y53p77x9s72FUqckB

I will concur. You can shift it into first (engine off) and compare the position at the trans to where it lands if you shift it no cables. If your in car shifter is worn then the trans shifter may not be moving as much as it should.

 

[GIB]

shouldn't matter what shift point or load. I would try this. Shift it into first with no cables. Drive it. Drive the piss out of it. Should take you 1000ft to figure out if it's cables or the trans. Naturally you'll only be in first gear but you can go slow, full throttle, launch it if you want, etc. etc. If it pops out with no cable on it then it's in the trans.

I just tried this and drove around like that for several minutes and NO 1st gear pop out! I tried slow, fast and a couple of launches and NO pop outs!

I will concur. You can shift it into first (engine off) and compare the position at the trans to where it lands if you shift it no cables. If your in car shifter is worn then the atvtrans shifter may boy be moving as much as it should.

I do notice a difference.

I will also suggest new shifter bushings. They are very reasonable and will make an old shifter feel new again.
2G DSM 95-99 Shifter Bushings | DSM 3D Creations https://share.google/Y53p77x9s72FUqckB

I'm going to do this and order new cables.
I will update soon as I get them all installed.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It seems your transmission is fine and that is GREAT! Just freshen up the rest of the system and you should be fine! Glad we could all pitch in our .02 cents
EDIT -
To completely rebuild your shifter, it also "may" need the trans selector bushing to make it as good as it gets but I'm not a 2g guy, so IDK if they apply to a 2g shifter.
I included a couple pics so you know what they look like if you have them.
1g's have a "Shift Stop Bushing" that I pointed out when rebuilding mine. It was just dust but there was a stub sticking out so I started using orings until 3d designs started making them. Thanks 3d DSM Designs!

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[GIB]

It seems your transmission is fine and that is GREAT! Just freshen up the rest of the system and you should be fine! Glad we could all pitch in our .02 cents
EDIT -
To completely rebuild your shifter, it also "may" need the trans selector bushing to make it as good as it gets but I'm not a 2g guy, so IDK if they apply to a 2g shifter.
I included a couple pics so you know what they look like if you have them.
1g's have a "Shift Stop Bushing" that I pointed out when rebuilding mine. It was just dust but there was a stub sticking out so I started using orings until 3d designs started making them. Thanks 3d DSM Designs!

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Thanks! I'm going to work on getting these items. I will update as soon as possible. I really appreciate the help!

 

[pauleyman]

Oh hell I forgot about that block. I would check that first. Big potential suspect.

 

[GIB]

*Update. I installed, MIT-MB307949 (shifter cup bushing), MD712919 (Transmission gear selector shoe), polyurethane bushings for the shifter assembly, and the White Shed Speed shifter cable bracket to replace the two MD723290 (shift cable bracket bushings). The car still pops out of first gear!, but slightly less. The shifter is much less sloppy feeling though.
I will next try to install the 2002-2006 RSX K20 shifter cables. They are adjustable.
Would solid motor mounts help as well?

 

[pauleyman]

*Update. I installed, MIT-MB307949 (shifter cup bushing), MD712919 (Transmission gear selector shoe), polyurethane bushings for the shifter assembly, and the White Shed Speed shifter cable bracket to replace the two MD723290 (shift cable bracket bushings). The car still pops out of first gear!, but slightly less. The shifter is much less sloppy feeling though.
I will next try to install the 2002-2006 RSX K20 shifter cables. They are adjustable.
Would solid motor mounts help as well?

If you are convinced it isn't the trans then there is still something misaligned in the shifter assembly. Shift it into first with the shifter then go to trans an see if you can push it more. If you can, then look for the slops, adjustments, wrong parts etc. How long has it been this way?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

How much movement does your engine have? Are your engine mounts clapped out?

-Daniel

 

[miliman13]

I will next try to install the 2002-2006 RSX K20 shifter cables. They are adjustable.

Im sure you are well aware, but incase; don’t forget you need the

“extenders/ adjustable end links “

Without them the K series cables are too short and will lead to the very same problem you are having.

The cables need to be in compression from end to end, otherwise it will tend to pull either into or out of gear .

Additionally when installing swivel joint to trans make sure to place it in a way that won’t allow joint to seperate- you can pull it out of socket - so one way has a counter sink that doesn’t allow it to move past that point.

This will make sence when you inspect them.

 

[twicks69]

Please thoroughly inspect your front and rear motor mount bushings to see if they are torn. If there is excessive play, the motor will rock under load to decel and can cause shifting issues. As well, always make sure nothing is in contact with your shift selector lever arm or the counterweight on it. I am suspecting that you likely have worn intermediate shaft bearings, worn 1/2 hub and slider, and a worn 1/2 shift fork if all of the external issues get remedied. It is a common issue.

 

[GIB]

If you are convinced it isn't the trans then there is still something misaligned in the shifter assembly. Shift it into first with the shifter then go to trans an see if you can push it more. If you can, then look for the slops, adjustments, wrong parts etc. How long has it been this way?

I shifted it into first. It did not move more. The cable may be loose, it did have movement, but I'm not sure it it is normal play. The cable for 2 and 4 doesn't move nearly as much when I try it.
Its been like this for about 5 months. Shifting in the car now is much more direct and less "wobbly." The car has never had the stock pieces replaced.

How much movement does your engine have? Are your engine mounts clapped out?

-Daniel

It is a 4g64 stroker. It moves a lot. It is on the original motor mounts as well. I'm wondering if a solid transmission mount would help along with inserting some polyurethane bushings in the other mounts. I'm pretty sure the motor mounts need new inserts, because they are the original mounts.

Im sure you are well aware, but incase; don’t forget you need the

“extenders/ adjustable end links “

Without them the K series cables are too short and will lead to the very same problem you are having.

The cables need to be in compression from end to end, otherwise it will tend to pull either into or out of gear .

Additionally when installing swivel joint to trans make sure to place it in a way that won’t allow joint to seperate- you can pull it out of socket - so one way has a counter sink that doesn’t allow it to move past that point.

This will make sence when you inspect them.

I didn't know any of that. Thanks, that would've been a mess.

Please thoroughly inspect your front and rear motor mount bushings to see if they are torn. If there is excessive play, the motor will rock under load to decel and can cause shifting issues. As well, always make sure nothing is in contact with your shift selector lever arm or the counterweight on it. I am suspecting that you likely have worn intermediate shaft bearings, worn 1/2 hub and slider, and a worn 1/2 shift fork if all of the external issues get remedied. It is a common issue.

The motor mounts don't look good, they are original and do have cracks. The car will not pop out of gear if I baby it shifting into first most of the time.

 

[GIB]

Please thoroughly inspect your front and rear motor mount bushings to see if they are torn. If there is excessive play, the motor will rock under load to decel and can cause shifting issues. As well, always make sure nothing is in contact with your shift selector lever arm or the counterweight on it. I am suspecting that you likely have worn intermediate shaft bearings, worn 1/2 hub and slider, and a worn 1/2 shift fork if all of the external issues get remedied. It is a common issue.

If the items you listed are worn, would the car pop out of gear when I remove the cable and shift into first? It doesn't pop out when I remove the cable and put it into first.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Change your ROLL STOPS. They aren't expensive. It will hold the motor still (depending on what you replace them with). OEM or original will control the rock and roll while poly will stop it but you will get some motor feel in the car because they are harder than a stock unit. If it does NOT come out of gear with the cables unhooked, it is not a trans issue more a "control of the transmission" issue. Best of luck!
If you decide to order from Rock Auto, here is a 5% discount code -
344750229299351863

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[twicks69]

Replace your front and rear motor mounts as Marty said above. You could also be dealing with worn out cables from having worn out motor mounts; these are 30 year old parts that need servicing.

 

[chrysler kid]

I fought with a trans with a first gear pop out for a few months. I replaced cables, replaced bushings, replaced cable ends, nothing made a difference

I was doing a final fluid swap and drained the new gold looking fluid into a clear plastic water gallon jug. It looked normal as it drained but as it filled the bottle I could see it was filled with pencil shavings and after a few quarts were in the jug I could really see the grey texture in the fluid

My advice is to take a fluid sample, crack the drain bolt to a slow leak and collect the fluid into a clear water bottle. If the damage is internal you will see the fluid have a texture in it and not be completely gold like the new fluid

My symptoms were similar, normal driving conditions the car would work in first gear 3 out of 5 times. The times it didn’t would kick the car out of first gear when I released the clutch. If I tried to hold it in gear as I released the clutch it would grind. Sometimes it could work fine if I went from third into first at a stop light with the clutch in to line up the synchros but other times it didnt

Before finding a new trans locally and after seeing the shavings in the fluid, my final shot at saving the trans was going to be flushing the trans to remove any prior metal shavings. My final theory was the synchro sleeve was worn and the contaminated fluid would not let the synchro fully seat regularly. So as a long shot I was going to fill the trans with dexmerc atf and run through the gears on jackstands to move the fluid and drain and fill a few times

The other final sign the synchro is damaged; if I turned off the car and started the car with the trans in first gear, it would never pop out of gear (for that first clutch release to get going). Eventually the trans got bad enough that I would always just start the car with the trans in first to know I wasn’t going to grind the trans just trying to pull out of the parking lot. There were some days the transmission worked perfectly, I could go on a drive and it would be fine, other days it seemed like it could never be consistent. That’s why I had a theory the flush might actually save the trans

 

[GIB]

I fought with a trans with a first gear pop out for a few months. I replaced cables, replaced bushings, replaced cable ends, nothing made a difference

I was doing a final fluid swap and drained the new gold looking fluid into a clear plastic water gallon jug. It looked normal as it drained but as it filled the bottle I could see it was filled with pencil shavings and after a few quarts were in the jug I could really see the grey texture in the fluid

My advice is to take a fluid sample, crack the drain bolt to a slow leak and collect the fluid into a clear water bottle. If the damage is internal you will see the fluid have a texture in it and not be completely gold like the new fluid

My symptoms were similar, normal driving conditions the car would work in first gear 3 out of 5 times. The times it didn’t would kick the car out of first gear when I released the clutch. If I tried to hold it in gear as I released the clutch it would grind. Sometimes it could work fine if I went from third into first at a stop light with the clutch in to line up the synchros but other times it didnt

Before finding a new trans locally and after seeing the shavings in the fluid, my final shot at saving the trans was going to be flushing the trans to remove any prior metal shavings. My final theory was the synchro sleeve was worn and the contaminated fluid would not let the synchro fully seat regularly. So as a long shot I was going to fill the trans with dexmerc atf and run through the gears on jackstands to move the fluid and drain and fill a few times

The other final sign the synchro is damaged; if I turned off the car and started the car with the trans in first gear, it would never pop out of gear (for that first clutch release to get going). Eventually the trans got bad enough that I would always just start the car with the trans in first to know I wasn’t going to grind the trans just trying to pull out of the parking lot. There were some days the transmission worked perfectly, I could go on a drive and it would be fine, other days it seemed like it could never be consistent. That’s why I had a theory the flush might actually save the trans

Thank you for that! I may just go ahead and rebuild the whole thing. This is getting nuts just buying pieces and hoping.
I have 392lb of torque, do you think I'd have to go Dogbox? Or could maybe a rebuild from Jacks Transmission work?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run a Jacks transmission in my 1990. So far the only issue was a "modification" of a 3rd gear syncro that didn't work real well so I replaced it with a stock syncro. Its doing good for me but I am pressing the limit at 500 ft/lbs

 

[GIB]

I've started installing the K series Shift Cables. How do we adjust them? I'm having trouble getting the shift lever to go through all gears.
I will send pics tonight (8/10/26)

 

[miliman13]

I've started installing the K series Shift Cables. How do we adjust them? I'm having trouble getting the shift lever to go through all gears.
I will send pics tonight (8/10/26)

Did you make/purchase the adjustments end links ?

 

[GIB]

Did you make/purchase the adjustments end links ?

Yes. The order stated it came with them.
On the inside of the car I added some end links and a "screw" extension. I also had to bore out the end links with a 21/64 drill bit to make them fit on our connections on both ends. I then had to shave down the larger end link in the engine bay to be able to fit a pin through our connector.

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[miliman13]

Yes. The order stated it came with them.
On the inside of the car I added some end links and a "screw" extension. I also had to bore out the end links with a 21/64 drill bit to make them fit on our connections on both ends. I then had to shave down the larger end link in the engine bay to be able to fit a pin through our connector.

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The way I had to adjust them was based on the response of the tranny at idle.
Because it changes with engine off.

This allows you to check if your far enough to engage the gear without grinding or issue.

Let me explain, you may shift fine at 1-2 3-4 but you might struggle to shift into 5th

Or other way around were now 1-2 is hard to shift but 5th is butter.

It’s a tight window to get 1-5 to shift fine but doable.

You probably noticed these cables are stiffer, one get around to the angle the brackets hold cables at compared to levers is using something like this : swivel end

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Notice it removes bending from the cable
And makes it easier on your shoulders

 

[GIB]

The way I had to adjust them was based on the response of the tranny at idle.
Because it changes with engine off.

This allows you to check if your far enough to engage the gear without grinding or issue.

Let me explain, you may shift fine at 1-2 3-4 but you might struggle to shift into 5th

Or other way around were now 1-2 is hard to shift but 5th is butter.

It’s a tight window to get 1-5 to shift fine but doable.

You probably noticed these cables are stiffer, one get around to the angle the brackets hold cables at compared to levers is using something like this : swivel end

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Notice it removes bending from the cable
And makes it easier on your shoulders

The cable on the right looks really bent. How did that work?

 

[GIB]

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I found a BROKEN BOLT on the rear mount. The bolt is broken up high enough where the mount doesn't slide. The mount rubber isn't cracked.

 

[GIB]

I got the cables installed and tried to drive. It still popped out of first. I tried everything outside of the transmission. I have another transmission that I may install. I may just sell the car at this point. I think I'm done with it for sure. I will update my page when I post it.

 

[miliman13]

The cable on the right looks really bent. How did that work?

No that bend you see is a swivel end I modified to remove the bending from the cable so when you go left and right it doesn’t cause resistance.

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Also when I installed the K cables and before I managed to adjust them mine was popping out of 4th and then after adjusting 1st then no more issues after more adjustments.

I know this may not be the case with yours, figured I share. You’ll know for sure if you swap trannies.

You’ll miss her, if you do sell.