The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

FCD Install ECU "Limp Mode"

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1996Eclipse420a

10+ Year Contributor
162
1
Jan 12, 2012
Wilkesboro, North Carolina
I installed the Symtech Labs FCD earlier today before work. I ran the power wire to the Cigarette Lighter. My mistake was, I ran it to the green/white wire. So long story short, I though I had it connected to a 12v supply that powered on when I started the car. I was wrong. IT would only power on when I turned on my headlight switch. :ohdamn:

So, I ended up driving to work without the lights on. The car wouldn't rev over 4k, and it hesitated badly. I figured the problem out leaving work tonight, and when I turned on my lights it did run better, but still had a hesitant idle.

I'm resetting the ECU in the morning after I find a better power source. SO, my question is, where is a good place to connect it to a switched 12v power so It'll get power after my car is fired up. Also, do I need to fine tune the FCD, or does it come already preset. Then, my last question is, what should I set the base fuel pressure to? I have it at 49-50psi right now. That's correct right? I have an aeromotive AFPR installed.
 
I would run itbto to the on or acessory wire off the ingnition swicth harness so that when you turn the key it turns on. As for the afpr not really sure the set psi for nt models. Im sure ny guys will chime in and help you out also most like theres threads on it.
 
Well, I noticed the FCD's green light wasn't lighting up. I took the back cover off, and put some pressure on top of the Potentiometer (not sure on the spelling) and the light would come on. So I turned the car on, put some pressure on it again, and revved the car a little, and it flat out stalled.

SO, after it stalled, I released the Potentiometer, and started the car, and it ran fine. I put pressure on it one more time, revved it, and it stalled again. It's like when I give it full throttle it doesn't pick up fuel with the FCD working. Unless a solder joint is broken somewhere, then I have no idea why power won't stay on the FCD until I apply pressure to POT.
 
This is directly from symtechs website - These FCD's are universal, for any car with a MAP/MAF/MAS sensor that uses a +5V voltage reference (most applications). They come pre-tuned, although fine tuning is recommended. They also come complete with instructions.

I'm guessing you have instructions so have you followed them. Have you took a voltmeter and checked the voltage reference on the FCD??
 
This is directly from symtechs website - These FCD's are universal, for any car with a MAP/MAF/MAS sensor that uses a +5V voltage reference (most applications). They come pre-tuned, although fine tuning is recommended. They also come complete with instructions.
Sorry guys, that's a bit of outdated information. We're switching to a new website soon and haven't updated some of the information on the old one. Since we began selling the latest design, our FCD's are no longer pre-tuned -- it's best to adjust them after they're installed on the car.

1996Eclipse420a, you have to pressurize the manifold in order to adjust the FCD. The green light will only illuminate when the FCD is "clamping." If it's lighting up at any other time, the threshold is set too low. By pressing on the potentiometer, you're probably shorting it, causing the LED to illuminate.
 
symtech labs, is the information about using a digital multimeter to tune it still accurate. I've read info on it, to set it to 4.70V.

This is directly from symtechs website - These FCD's are universal, for any car with a MAP/MAF/MAS sensor that uses a +5V voltage reference (most applications). They come pre-tuned, although fine tuning is recommended. They also come complete with instructions.

I'm guessing you have instructions so have you followed them. Have you took a voltmeter and checked the voltage reference on the FCD??

I haven't tested it with a voltmeter. I would imagine it should be, but I'll check it out.
 
symtech labs, is the information about using a digital multimeter to tune it still accurate. I've read info on it, to set it to 4.70V.

I haven't tested it with a voltmeter. I would imagine it should be, but I'll check it out.
The instructions included with the FCD and posted on our website include the most up to date information. We recommend lightly pressurizing the manifold (1-2 psi) and adjusting the potentiometer until the LED just barely illuminates. You can use a multimeter if you have one (we usually set the threshold to 4.58V), but the LED method doesn't require any additional tools.
 
The instructions included with the FCD and posted on our website include the most up to date information. We recommend lightly pressurizing the manifold (1-2 psi) and adjusting the potentiometer until the LED just barely illuminates. You can use a multimeter if you have one (we usually set the threshold to 4.58V), but the LED method doesn't require any additional tools.

I'll go use the digital multimeter in a bit. Thanks for the info guys. I'll see if I can get it to work, and post back results.

no luck. I can't set the thresh hold at all. When I adjust the POT, nothing happens. It stays at 4.44v.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top