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Syndicate13

20+ Year Contributor
1,511
30
Jan 5, 2003
Ft. Myers, Florida
Ok here goes, I have the complete ATR O2 eliminator on my car so the stock lower heatshield doesn't fit anymore. Consequently I have melted 2, count em, 2 AC fans. I am sick and tired of this. Does anyone run without the AC fan? Will I see higher temps under normal driving. I don't use AC all the time but living in South Florida makes it a necessity sometimes. I was actually thinking of taking out the AC fan and installing a pusher on the front of the condenser. Has anyone done that before? I have rediculously high coolant temps as it is and I don't want them to go up. If I have to I'm cutting some holes in my hood. :thumb:
 
The AC fan will only run if the AC is in use. Other than that it just sits there. I took my entire AC system out including the fan and the needle never goes over halfway even in the summer. I wouldnt recommend running your AC with no AC fan though.
 
Yeah I figured as much. I actually have a spare heatshield laying around. Maybe I'll try cutting it up and making it fit. On a related note how would you suggest I go about lowering my coolant temps? It sits at 210 when the car is warm which is causing me to lose a degree of timing advance and I want that damn degree.
 
Syndicate13 said:
Yeah I figured as much. I actually have a spare heatshield laying around. Maybe I'll try cutting it up and making it fit. On a related note how would you suggest I go about lowering my coolant temps? It sits at 210 when the car is warm which is causing me to lose a degree of timing advance and I want that damn degree.

Start with flushing your cooling system out and refilling with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant and throw in a bottle of Reline Water Wetter. Then fit the heat shields on and make sure your fans are still functional. If that doesn't do it you could go with a Fluidyne radiator and lower temp thermostat.
 
ditch the ac fan, along with your regular cooling fan and replace it with a slim line fan from slowboy only $70.00 for a 1260 cfm one i believe. thats what im getting as i run with just my regular fan now but that thing sucks ass :p
 
lowridin2g said:
ditch the ac fan, along with your regular cooling fan and replace it with a slim line fan from slowboy only $70.00 for a 1260 cfm one i believe. thats what im getting as i run with just my regular fan now but that thing sucks ass :p


Yeah I was sorta planning on going to a setup like yours after I hit 110 traps on the small 16g. A Tial 38mm on the stock manifold with a green actually. I'll look into that fan, 70 bucks is what I paid for my last set of used stock ones I think.
 
I wired my fans to be on all the time. takes a bit longer to warm up but the temp needle dropped a bit during city and highway driving.
 
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html

Permacools have the most flow for the buck.

I run a 10" on my PWR rad that I can turn on in the car.

You can also just run the one or two slim fans all the time by jumpering it in the box.

Never mind the mounting tab hangin around OMG
 

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As recommended by the guys at RRE-- They told me to use an 10" fan on the AC side and have that running all the time. Then use a 12" 1360cfm fan on the pass. side that comes on when necessary. Keeping the AC one running all the time will keep air circulating around the turbo and not let things get too hot.
 
That is a good idea. I wired both my stock fans to be on all the time.

Hood vents are a must when upgrading turbo or when the exhaust manifold is not covered by a heat shield.
If I am correct, all year EVO's have a hood vent of some sort.
 
CanadianTSi said:
I haven't ran a lower heatshield for 2 years now and my fan shows no signs of melting...


You also don't live in hot, humid south florida. Cooling wouldn'tbe a problem if I lived in Canadia. :thumb:

I'll look into what Scrymer said. Did you just extend the wires on the fan harnesses and switch them? I know the stock operation is the pass fan on then the AC fan also comes on when necessary. Just upgrade fans and reverse the order huh? I'll look into it. But like I was saying before does anyone have any experience using a pusher fan on the front of the condenser?
 
Syndicate13 said:
You also don't live in hot, humid south florida. Cooling wouldn'tbe a problem if I lived in Canadia. :thumb:

I'll look into what Scrymer said. Did you just extend the wires on the fan harnesses and switch them? I know the stock operation is the pass fan on then the AC fan also comes on when necessary. Just upgrade fans and reverse the order huh? I'll look into it. But like I was saying before does anyone have any experience using a pusher fan on the front of the condenser?

I used one 30amp relay hooked up to an ignition wire to trigger the driver side fan to come on when the car is started. The other fan can be wired up to the stock plug. I have the wiring diagram here which I will try to scan tomorrow and post back here. It is really not hard at all. I have no experience using push fans, and was thinking about it when I was deciding what fans to buy. It would REALLY clean things up a lot having the fans hidden between the FMIC and readiator, but I was told by RRE that it would very likely not be sufficient for cooling.


As far as having both fans on all the time, this is just making the alternator work harder. If your fans (or one of them even) draws as much power as my large 12", then you should really change it so it only comes on when needed.
 
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