F***ing Power Door Locks for Remote entry

[GSLENK]

I am trying to set up keyless/remote entry on my 92 laser awd rs-t (6/4 combo)
I am having a hell of a time figuring out the lock system on it. heres what I got going on:

Drivers side kick panel, brown/white, brown/blue. each connects to ground during either lock or unlock (tested w/ 12v test light). But when I connect ground to each wire (one at a time) they dont fully lock or unlock.

Passenger side kick panel, doesnt work for shit. Only when I unplug the "smart locks box" then I can get the passenger side only to operate correctly (ground to either wire operated the passenger only, but fully lockss/unlocks).

Im About ready to give up on keyless locks. It is unbelieveable how ####ing hard this is.

I did a 98 explorer with a 5 wire using 2 relays and even that was easier than this!!!

Are my actuators going bad or something?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

It should be really simple, maybe you aren't grounding them long enough? Most systems have an adjustment for the lenth of the door lock pulse. When you lock one door manually, does the other follow suit? That would tell you if your actuators are strong enough.

 

[GSLENK]

When I lock the drivers side by either key or switch, both locks lock. same thing for unlock. Seems fully functional. Still functions this way with key/switch. When I use the passenger side , it only operates for half a second. and then returns to the state the drivers side was left in.

Now when I try to "hotwire" my locks, it just doesnt work like I feel it should. Not a crisp lock/unlock operation. This is probably like my 8th alarm type install. I know Im competent i mean its splicing 1 ground signal into 1 wire... how is it so hard?

I guess Ill go ahead and wire up the system and see if it has better timing than I do I hope it does.

I know I can set the time on my system, it has .75 second or 3.5 seconds. (ill be going with the default .75 because it should work.)

It sesm like alarms should be one of the easiest things to install on these cars. Idk why Im having such a difficult time.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

When I use the passenger side , it only operates for half a second. and then returns to the state the drivers side was left in.

It sounds like a mechanical issue to me. It seems like you are saying that the driver door only locks and unlocks when there's physical input from your hand helping it.

There is a switch in each door lock that sends a signal to the opposite side via the door lock control module. If one lock is unlocked/locked, the opposite door should follow suit. If one side is getting stuck, it's effectively sending a signal to the opposite side telling it to undo whatever you just attempted to do.

 

[GSLENK]

thats what it feels like.

So normal operation is like this:

Drivers lock/unlock action locks/unlocks passenger with it.
Passenger lock/unlock action locks/unlocks driver with it.

So there is no INTENTIONAL drivers side security, priority feature. These cars are designed from the factory with equal priority (as in both sides are the same always).

What does this suggest? bad actuator?

Also, when I unplug the box on the pass side, The drivers unlock feature works (by grounding brown/white on drivers side plug) 100%. the lock however only goes halfway, and doesnt lock.

 

[cola]

I am trying to set up keyless/remote entry on my 92 laser awd rs-t (6/4 combo)
I am having a hell of a time figuring out the lock system on it. heres what I got going on:

Drivers side kick panel, brown/white, brown/blue. each connects to ground during either lock or unlock (tested w/ 12v test light). But when I connect ground to each wire (one at a time) they dont fully lock or unlock.

I was having the same problem- greased up the arm behind there and it jumped to life. Also it seems if one door handle is loose, the power locks don't operate correctly on both doors. Thats on a 2g though.

 

[GSLENK]

heres a diagram. The very top is from battery to fuse block... the rest is all there. only fuse block on should be important... It looks to me like the lock should always be in unison correct me if i am wrong.

I was having the same problem- greased up the arm behind there and it jumped to life. Also it seems if one door handle is loose, the power locks don't operate correctly on both doors. Thats on a 2g though.

I think that may be part of it... I took the door panel off, stuff seems to move easier but Im not there 100%

Also, Are the pass and drivers actuators swappable?

UPDATE:

I have this feeling its the actuator too weak, and/or too much frictional resistance in the linkages. I removed the spongy material from linkages and it didnt do much.

I unbolted the lock actuator ant left it hanging, the locks all work as one now. It has to be the actuator.

Now, big question, are the pass/drivers actuators the same? or different parts? (im assuming different...)

FINAL UPDATE:
After doing some wiggling/tinkering/cleaning... it seems to be working better.