2G Exhaust manifold coating

[JeffGS-T97]

I got a cast iron t3 manifold and am thinking of coating it to keep it from rusting up real bad. Has anyone done this with good permanent results? I found a few things but im not sure whats tried and true.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

People really don't give the spray cans the credit they deserve. I've been using that kind of stuff for years and never had issues. VHT flameproof silver would work great, and if you know how to control the can nobody will ever know it's not professionally done.

BUT, since you're looking for something permanent, you could pay to get it professionally ceramic coated.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Very true, have you ever tried a product called Zycoat? It's pretty expensive. Just wondering if it's just over priced garbage.

 

[Mello]

I bought a Turbonetics T3 Cast Manifold many years ago & had it ceramic coated silver to help with underhood temps. The finish dulled some from the heat but no flaking or chips yet. I've buffed it up (rubbed with my fingers) to restore the shine but it dulls back up after driving. Other than the dulling it's worked great. Did the turbo hot side at the same time. No problems with the coating.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

How much do you think a good price is for having it coated let's say silver like your old one Mello?

 

[jed344]

I have a buddy who does cerokote on guns and has done some exhaust stuff. Have considered sending him my manifold, waste gate, down pipe to get done.

 

[Stapl3]

VHT spray paint, then I bake it with a propane torch after painting. Done many exhaust manifolds and o2 housings like this, all are still completely black to this day some over 10 years later.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

VHT spray paint, then I bake it with a propane torch after painting. Done many exhaust manifolds and o2 housings like this, all are still completely black to this day some over 10 years later.

Very nice! Thank you

 

[JeffGS-T97]

VHT spray paint, then I bake it with a propane torch after painting. Done many exhaust manifolds and o2 housings like this, all are still completely black to this day some over 10 years later.

That turbo set up you got is insane!

 

[motomattx]

Mine is ceramic coated, still looks fine.

 

[XC92]

I recently removed, cleaned up and spray painted the upper manifold cover and engine hanger on my Talon. I used Rustoleum high temp primer and spray. Can't say that it looks anywhere near professional, but both look way better than they did before and haven't chipped, cracked, peeled or discolored from engine heat. Obviously if you want it to look perfect you should probably have it done by pros, but if you want to DIY, some kind of spray paint would probably work well for you.

Btw, while we're on the topic of exhaust manifolds, since the OP would obviously have to remove it to do it right, any advice on removing the nuts or studs without breaking the studs? Same as with any possibly rusted-on old fasteners, or do you have to take special precautions since thousands of heat/cool cycles might do a number on them and gall them into the block? I'd like to remove my EM later this year to clean it up and paint it.

 

[Stapl3]

Off set box wrench and a big hammer for the manifold to head nuts. Half inch drive 6pt socket for the manifold to turbo. Disconnect the 4 bolts to the turbo first!

 

[XC92]

Off set box wrench and a big hammer for the manifold to head nuts. Half inch drive 6pt socket for the manifold to turbo. Disconnect the 4 bolts to the turbo first!

That plus penetrating oil should be enough? I hear horror stories of broken studs and PITA extraction procedures. Mine's over 28 years old and I doubt it's ever been taken off.

 

[AMSOIL Dlr #352885]

1) Brush/remove any rust grime build up away from exposed threads.
2) Soak all hardware many hours 1st before trying to remove.
Use mixture of 50/50 Acetone/ Synthetic ATF (I use Amsoil from previous serviced units).
3) Be sure to slightly tighten/just move crack loose each not/bolt first using a flange pattern method.
DO NOT remove each bolt one at a time.
4) Once one "cracks/loosens" snug it back, move alternately to next...
....Loosen gradually until all bolts move freely..
5) Chase holes w/ thread restorer set.
6) Clean, Blow out with Compressed air, Inspect all threads before reinstalling hardware.

I have used Jet-Hot Ceramic coating on multiple headers and it lasts very well.
The parts are treated inside and outside.
This not only reduces the under hood temps, but keeps exhaust gases from cooling off too soon upon exit which can hinder exhaust flow.
Had 1st Gen MR2, TRD Chromed header done by them back in 97ish, had to be stripped 1st, before they could apply coating.
Bare metal products are what they need to have product adhere correctly.
IIRC, They give a lifetime warranty on their work.

Not as economical as rattle can But..... "Purdy is as Purdy does".....depends on what you are looking for.
Attached picture is Powroll header done at that same time.

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[XC92]

Thanks. I'll be gentle and go slow and do it the way you explained. Is it ok to use a regular tap instead of thread chaser/restorer, if I do it slow? I think mine are plug taps.

And I'm ok with spray paint. Not trying to put together a show car. It'll be driven and used, so it's eventually going to get re-dinged up again.

Oh, the coating advice was for the OP. Never mind!

 

[AWD-Tony]

Most of you are aware that our turbo engine bays get hot and heat soaks everything. This benefit of ceramic coating is that it keeps the temperature within whatever you ceramic coat. Plus it’s chemical resistant.

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[AMSOIL Dlr #352885]

Well , the advice is for anyone wanting to use it, including you XC92.
It's free at this point, and up to those that want to try it.
Just my experience from "School of Hard-knocks" and after working on cars/motorcycles, and many "lefty lossie righty tighty" vehicles for a few days.
It has saved me many hours of aggravation.
My manifold is extremely cracked

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Good luck with the Project!

 

[XC92]

Well taking off and cleaning up my exhaust manifold is a "sometime down the line" task right now, so I can hold off deciding how to do it for now. Right now fixing my trans and replacing some other parts (MC, clutch pedal lever, brakes pads/rotors) is higher priority.

But thanks for the advice. I just kind of wandered into this thread. Duly noted and appreciated and good luck to the OP!

 

[Stapl3]

That plus penetrating oil should be enough? I hear horror stories of broken studs and PITA extraction procedures. Mine's over 28 years old and I doubt it's ever been taken off.

Yes. And the first turn on them you want to 'crack' them loose, meaning not leverage with a prybar, rather smack it with a hammer. I've taken off more manifolds than I can count and never broke a bolt. Another idea would be to start with the engine cold, run it for a little to get the head/manifold hot, but not so the bolts get up to the same temp, then go at it. I've never had to do this though.

And have fun with that upper right manifold bolt. :] it's a frustrating bugger to get to.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I don’t think breaking studs is the issue with our cars. It’s more like the stud rips the thread out of the head. That’s what I’ve been seeing on posts. Bolts breaking are more common on turbo side.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

I completely agree with this, that is literally the only place I've had bolts break in 3 years of having it. I broke 2 bolts off on the turbo hot side casing when i was replacing my turbo cartridge. Took forever to get those suckers out.