Dsmkauai
10+ Year Contributor
- 4,658
- 421
- Feb 20, 2010
-
Kauai,
Hawaii
Just got mine today!!! I'll have it on at the next drag race haha oooooh
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Ok here's the big machine the hub slider secret was not going to sleep until I figured it out .
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I think you should call jack or john. I dont think you hub needs the machining done. there is plenty of clearance there. they expand from heat together. and the syncro ring is never spinning inside the hub. its held in one spot by the dogs.
edit: save the phone call. I figured it out. do the first video test again but install the dogs and springs. on the set i have here there is no room for the scyncro to move free once the spring is in place. it forces the scyncro to the gear and would self destruct instantly. the hub I have needs more depth.
Keltalon,
If you do anything to this trans get 3rd/4th, intermediate shaft, and cd, detailed, shotpeened, cryo, rem, isf, and anything else that you can. These are the gears that take the most abuse and fail. With you playing lsr racer, you'll be plenty hard on 4th gear and the I shaft/cd pair.
Noone breaks first/second gear, medium power cars strip 3rd gear, and high power cars strip 4th gear.
I'm not a believer in the treatments, as I've had them and havn't seen an improvement. But I will say that if you care going to spend your money on it, the above pieces are the essential ones.
Also one tip, I've been running the 2nd gear synchro spring in 3rd and 4th. you have to cut it to fit, but it gives quite a bit more pressure on the synchro keys, which improves the synchro actuation. The shift effort is a bit higher but it's a nice positive feeling shift and it doesn't object to 9000rpm shifts.
That's a dds axleWhat is the half shaft you are comparing it to in the video? I'm pretty sure I've replaced both front cv half shafts during the 9 years, tho its possible I might be off... I've worked on lots of cars over the years . If I have though, they would have been standard purchases from Autozone or O'Reilly's...
It's a jdm axle autozone axle is 1/2 short.What is the half shaft you are comparing it to in the video? I'm pretty sure I've replaced both front cv half shafts during the 9 years, tho its possible I might be off... I've worked on lots of cars over the years . If I have though, they would have been standard purchases from Autozone or O'Reilly's...
I must've only replaced the drivers side then.That's a dds axle
It's a jdm axle autozone axle is 1/2 short.
It can get confusing sometimes . I dropped that axle end off today alone with all the transmission gears, hubs, intermediate shaft,input shaft and 64 tooth ring gear to be cryo-rem finished will get them back in two weeks. The 3rd and 4th gears and the intermediate shaft are also being cryo/rem when I get them back alone with all needle bearing will be sent to be wpc treated .. 400.00 for the cryo and rem of all listed parts above including the axles. wpc quote was 150.00.I must've only replaced the drivers side then.
Too many cars over the years .
Well maybe I'll just have to find out the hard way. I remember when everybody was saying the same thing with my fwd Oh you are an idiot for building that tranny for that horsepower level it will never last and yada yada yada. Guess what with the rem finish alone the tranny held up 2 1/2 years of constant abuse 809whp 608ftlbs torque then it broke not the gears but the weak hub slider. Since I added the wpc and 1990 hd hubslider the tranny is still going strong. So with that success I decided to do the same thing to the awd .Kinda lost here, Lol 4:45 am.
Anyway you are planning on using Evo III 3/4 gears correct? If so at your power you'll probably strip 4th within a few thousand miles treated or not. Every early Evo guy that makes north of 600whp starts stripping 4th. That's why Matthias Boldt started making his 3/4 gears. He said that he'd get 4000km's to a Evo 4th gear before they'd strip.
My brother also stripped 4th in his Evo III gear box, just after being refreshed recently too (2k-4k KM's). Now it did have many hits on those gears at many different power levels for many years, but as soon as he crossed that 600whp mark 4th gear went. Seriously his car at 26psi made 580whp and nothing broke. Turned up the boost to 30psi and on the first hit it stripped, Lol.
More of the same information as above but with some additional.
W5M33-2-NQBK 91-2 Galant VR4 up to 4/92
W5M33-2-NQBM 92 Galant VR4 mfg 5/92
W5M33-2-WPVF Galant VR4 E84A
W5M33-2-WQNK Galant VR4 evo (3.909 ratio)
W5M33-2-WQFK Galant VR4 evo
W5M33-2-NPXV 91-94 Eclipse AWD 5spd mfg 6/90-2/94
W5M33-2-NNZT 95? Eclipse AWD 5spd mfg 3/94 [not sure about this one]
W5M33-2-NPZT 95-96 Eclipse AWD 5spd mfg 3/94-6/96
W5M33-2-WQWE 92-93 Lancer evo 1 RS (viscous front LSD) (3.909)
W5M33-2-WQFE evo 1 RS box
W5M33-2-WQGE evo 1 GSR box
My evo 1 is WQNK non lsd.
Trans case is wpc treated only. Only needle bearings are wpc treated not taper bearings or the bearing races. Evans performance is doing the cryogenic and rem wpc in California is doing the wpc they are the only one in the us that does it.On a side note, cryotreatment of your transmission case will do absolutely jack squat for you. It is aluminum. Cryotreatment is for ferrous materials only.
Bearing preload is also much more important than WPC treatment of the bearings since they are going to be a wear item and replaced seasonally.
Who are you using for your shotpeening, REM, WPC and Cryo?
I don't think so. I broke 4 fwd transmissions prior to getting the last one right. We will just have to see. Less than a 1000.00 is not much spent consider some pay 3 times that ro have someone else do theirs with no treatment what so everyour spending way too much an that transmission. AWD is different game than a tire spinning FWD. spend your money on a carbon carbon clutch with heavy flywheel. with that a stock trans will last longer than what you are building here. reducing shock to gears is far more important.
several years back there was a guy making 750whp AWD. he admitted to breaking 16 transmissions. he was getting like two passes per trans. seriously the treatment your doing only adds about 15-20% to the strength of a stocker. .
no one really cares if you want to blow an expensive trans cause you know what you are doing and no one else does. we will just have fun watching you learn the truth the hard way..
All I can do is laugh. Hilarious for sure. Don't hate!your spending way too much an that transmission. AWD is different game than a tire spinning FWD. spend your money on a carbon carbon clutch with heavy flywheel. with that a stock trans will last longer than what you are building here. reducing shock to gears is far more important.
several years back there was a guy making 750whp AWD. he admitted to breaking 16 transmissions. he was getting like two passes per trans. seriously the treatment your doing only adds about 15-20% to the strength of a stocker. .
no one really cares if you want to blow an expensive trans cause you know what you are doing and no one else does. we will just have fun watching you learn the truth the hard way..
I assume you built the 16 transmissions for your buddy that kept breaking? At some point you got to know when to give it up for sure!I have 30+ years of trans building experience. 15 solely for 4g63 cars. I am quite certain i have more knowledge than you . not even close really. so laugh all you want. we'll see who gets the last laugh. I am just trying to share helpful insight. and you get arrogant. whatever.
why would you assume that? I didnt build one trans for that guy. most forum members simply dont post about their failed parts. "that guy" was kind enough to do so. and the point was at certain power levels these transmissions break like tooth pics. you are planning to exceed that power level.I assume you built the 16 transmissions for your buddy that kept breaking? At some point you got to know when to give it up for sure!